12 ga. plastic hull overshot cards

Eyesa Horg · February 03, 2014, 08:37:10 AM

Pards,
Just got an antigue roll crimper off E-bay for 12 ga. What diameter overshot cards do I need for plastic hulls for roll crimping. Also, does anyone have few they could mail me to try b4 I purchase a 1000? They're cheap enough, but; would hate to have 900 or so just laying around. I've used an 8 pt. crimp with good results, but the roll crimp would be a lot cooler

I tried a 3/4" punch and the results were way too large, couldn't get 'em past the little bit of crimp star that was left on the hull.

Eyesa

hellgate · February 03, 2014, 11:44:46 AM

Just get 12ga overshot card wads. You may need to iron out the folds in some of the crimps or cut about 1/4"-3/8" of the mouth away so the roll crimper can turn the edge.

Eyesa Horg · February 03, 2014, 12:03:43 PM

Hellgate,
I was planning on cutting off abt. a 1/4", how do I "iron out" the remaining little bit of crimp that's left, or will that not be an issue?

rickk · February 03, 2014, 12:07:43 PM

Like Hellgate says, if you are roll crimping plastic, then the 12 gauge overshot wad is what you want.

The only time you need to go bigger is if you are loading brass cases, where you cant roll crimp.

When I roll crimp plastic 12 gauge, I cut 1/4" off to remove the entire star crimp. Both BPI and Precision Reloading make a nice cutter for doing the cutting. What little is left wont be an issue. The nice thing about cutting a 1/4" off is that you can use hulls that most people would trash due to damage in the crimp area.

hellgate · February 03, 2014, 12:24:48 PM

I have never bothered with one of these but here's what would be needed. http://www.ballisticproducts.com/Spin-Doctor-Large-Bore-10-to-20ga/productinfo/SPINDOC/
I just take a big set of tin snips to cut the folds of the crimp off and you can shove any number of tapered objects (tapered dowels, needle nose pliers, pointy objects) to flare the mouth to get rid of the ripples. The roll crimper I have fits into my drill and rolls nice crimp.
http://www.ballisticproducts.com/Original-Roll-Crimping-Tool-12ga/productinfo/ROLL12/

Stu Kettle · February 03, 2014, 02:28:06 PM

I use a piece of 3/4" pipe the right length as a guide & cut them off with a utility knife. They come out the same length with a nice straight cut.

Sir Charles deMouton-Black · February 03, 2014, 07:42:54 PM

Use the 5/8 inch hollow punch, and knock O/S cards out of waxed card milk cartons. They will be loose, and don't actually make them waterproof, but the roll crimp will seal it up enough to keep loose shot out of your shooting vest pockets.

Eyesa Horg · February 03, 2014, 09:12:07 PM

Quote from: Sir Charles deMouton-Black on February 03, 2014, 07:42:54 PM
Use the 5/8 inch hollow punch, and knock O/S cards out of waxed card milk cartons. They will be loose, and don't actually make them waterproof, but the roll crimp will seal it up enough to keep loose shot out of your shooting vest pockets.

I think the os cards need to fit snug as the tool works horizontal to crimp 'em, although I spose it could be mounted vertical, may just try it as i have a 5/8 punch.

Sir Charles deMouton-Black · February 03, 2014, 09:19:01 PM

My "tip" only works with vertical methods of roll crimping. You might try it if you are stuck, but do order O/S cards or a proper punch for the gauge.

Lucky R. K. · February 04, 2014, 09:36:35 AM

I use cereal boxes as the material to make both my overshot and over powder wads. For the overshot wads I use one thickness and punch them out with a wad cutter I made. You can also use a 3/4" arch punch to punch wads. They will be a few thousands wider but they will work. For the over powder wad I cut the boxes in strips about three inches wide and glue them together. Use enough to give a thickness of 1/8". I also make fiber wads from 3/8" Masonite board I get at Lowes.

If you have a small lathe you can make the wad punches any size you would like and also use it to trim those 12 Ga. hulls for roll crimping. Here is a picture of what I use to trim hulls.

If you like I can post a picture of the wad cutters and tell you how I make them.

Lucky

Sir Charles deMouton-Black · February 04, 2014, 09:53:35 AM

Lucky RK; I'm glad to see another shooter using materials available in every home. Or, nearby.

I like wax milk carton for O/S cards as it is waterproof, light, strong enough and is always around.

For O/P cards I go to the neighbourhood picture frame shop and scrounge scrapped picture backing card. It is usually hard and 1/16" thick but I pop a couple in at a time.

I have used a lot of cereal box material, but the above are now my preferred O/P & O/S card material.

Cushion wad material is another thing. I prefer commercially available wads but stacking up wads punched from 1/8" cork gasket sheet and paper pulp egg carton material gets the job done. From time to time I have cut the petals from plastic wads and inserted them upside down over at least one picture frame card wad (to avoid melted plastic in the bore).

Oh Yeah! For BPCR I have punched wads from tavern beer coasters.

Eyesa Horg · February 04, 2014, 02:05:13 PM

Lucky---
Please do-- post a pic of your wad cutters and instructions. I don't have a metal lathe myself, but I'm sure I can locate one to use. Nice job on the case trimmer.

Dick Dastardly · February 04, 2014, 05:28:35 PM

Or, try this. Make yourself an elongated hardwood cone from just under .410 ga to 10ga out of wood that fits into your drill motor. Then, spin the cone inside your shell. It'll develop enough heat to "iron" out the folds and leave the shell warm enough for a real good roll crimp. I've literally loaded thousands of hulls using this rig and it never fails me. The added attraction is that it leaves more interior volume for POWDER!

I use 1/8" over powder wads followed by 1/2" fiber wads. This still leaves me plenty of room for shot.

DD-MDA

Lucky R. K. · February 05, 2014, 11:57:08 AM

Here is a picture showing the wad cutters I have made. There is a .38, two .45's, and .50 cal. pistol wad cutters. The shotgun wad cutters are a 16 ga., two 12 ga., and a 10 ga. One of the 12 ga. cutters is for plastic hulls and the other is for brass. I use these cutters to make all of the wads I shoot.

To make a cutter get a piece of steel slightly larger in diameter than the cutter you are making. Turn one end down to a diameter of 1/2" or so. Chuck that end into the lathe and bore a 1/4" hole all the way thru the piece. Then bore out that end until it is slightly smaller than the desired diameter. I use a boring bar to get almost to the final diameter and finish with a Dremel tool and stone to grind to the final diameter. Grind Deep enough for the entire thickness of the wad.

To make the piece that pushes the cut wad from the cutter use a machine bolt with a 1/4" diameter. It must be long enough to extend about 14" above the chuck end. Cut a narrow groove in the thread end to hold an e-clamp. I then turn a piece of aluminum to just slightly under the cutter diameter and screw it onto the machine bolt. Put a couple of springs on the bolt shaft, insert it through the cutter and fasten it in with the e-clip. Mount the cutter and start cutting.

Lucky

Noz · February 06, 2014, 10:12:44 AM

Beautiful work but a Harbor Freight set of hollow punches runs about $6. 5/8s for a loos fit in a 12 or 3/4 for a tight fit. I use a plastic cutting board for a base.

Eyesa Horg · February 06, 2014, 04:39:27 PM

Quote from: Dick Dastardly on February 04, 2014, 05:28:35 PM
Or, try this. Make yourself an elongated hardwood cone from just under .410 ga to 10ga out of wood that fits into your drill motor. Then, spin the cone inside your shell. It'll develop enough heat to "iron" out the folds and leave the shell warm enough for a real good roll crimp. I've literally loaded thousands of hulls using this rig and it never fails me. The added attraction is that it leaves more interior volume for POWDER!

I use 1/8" over powder wads followed by 1/2" fiber wads. This still leaves me plenty of room for shot.

DD-MDA
[/quote

DD--- How long do make the taper from .410 to 10 ga., I'm assuming rather short if you have time to fill 'em up before they cool.
Lucky--- Thanks for the pics and info, nice job. Another project !!!

How do I reply to a quote without coming out this did???

Sir Charles deMouton-Black · February 06, 2014, 05:54:22 PM

Eyesa; When you reply with a quote, just make sure the curser is BELOW THE END OF THE QUOTE. I have to watch this myself from time to time.

Dick Dastardly · February 09, 2014, 03:10:03 PM

Howdy Eyesa,

I make the cone about 4" long. I like hard maple. Soon enough you will get a mark showing on your cone so you know how much to spin it into the shell. Too much and it actually flares the hull, too little and it doesn't soften the old crimp enough to roll crimp easily. It only takes me about 5 seconds per hull to spin them before loading on my MEC 600 Jr. Mk-V loader.

I use the same hardwood spinner on all my loads from .410 to 10ga.

DD-MDA

Eyesa Horg · February 10, 2014, 08:42:25 AM

Quote from: Dick Dastardly on February 09, 2014, 03:10:03 PM
Howdy Eyesa,

I make the cone about 4" long. I like hard maple. Soon enough you will get a mark showing on your cone so you know how much to spin it into the shell. Too much and it actually flares the hull, too little and it doesn't soften the old crimp enough to roll crimp easily. It only takes me about 5 seconds per hull to spin them before loading on my MEC 600 Jr. Mk-V loader.

I use the same hardwood spinner on all my loads from .410 to 10ga.

DD-MDA

Thank you DD, Haven't played with a lathe in many decades, but still have one. I'm gonna give it a shot as it were. Thanks agin for the info. So, you spin out the ridges load and crimp and the hull still stays warm?