Fixed that cylinder gap.

[Fredcdobbs]

Had a problem on my 1862 pocket Police pistol. If you put the wedge in too far the already slim cylinder gap would disappear and lock up the gun. Classic case of Uberti short cylinder spindle. When I checked the barrel frame overlap it was small, just enough to allow the problem. I figured any button I put on the end of the spindle would be super thin so I passed on the typical brass Dillon cartridge button although I did have the small No1 pin.
Instead I did drill and tap a hole in the end of the spindle and threaded in a stainless steel button head machine screw. Lots of reducing of the diameter and height of the button got the material added to the end of the spindle to be wafer thin. Really thin. I needed the extra support of the stainless steel in the long run. By the time I got the problem fixed the button was only a couple thousand thick and the you could just barely use an allen wrench to get it in and out. Not enough bite to tighten.
I put some blue Lock tite on it and got it secured in the end.
Now when I put the wedge in and give it a little tap, the tip of the wedge does come out the other side, the gun is locked up tight and still has a proper cylinder gap that closes nicely when the hammer goes from half cock to all the way down.
This is my first button and I'm relieved I didn't Bubba it although if you really screw up an unused hole in the end of your spindle won't hurt anything. Here is a pic of the button. Note it's off center which does not seem to effect it working. I broke off a small pilot drill flush with the  and had to chase it out with a larger one which walked on me. Luckily. it still came out okay.
this under general topics as this seems to be a common problem with a lot of Ubertis.

[rifle]

Passed on the typical Dillion cartridge button? Brass? Steel is a little better. The gun is made of steel so it seems logical to me to use steel to fix a short steel part.
Steel is the answer for that bottomed arbor appplication in my opinion at least. Just a suggestion........
Try a simple method next time and in the process don't weaken the end of the arbor with a hole in it.
Try a steel fender washer that can be had close to the diameter of the hole it needs to go to the bottom of. The bottom of the barrels arbor hole. Size it so it'll go to the bottom with a little friction so once there it can't fall out. Easy to do since it's pretty hard to file a round washer perfectly. Make it so it stays in the hole without falling out.
There's a smaller hole in a fender washer than in a regular washer. That hole can be used to pick the washer out if ever the need arises. Fender type washers are thinner than regular washers.
The washer can be stoned a little at a time till it keeps the arbor in the right place to have the arbor bottomed in the hole when the barrels bottom lug is a .001 in. from the frame(seat-in/wear will close it eventually). Close the cylinder gap by a .001  also but that's no biggy since later the rear breech end of the barrel can be stoned or reamed off a little but it ain't really imperative.
A person can get more precise and have the arbor end hit bottom as the barrel hits frame or let the arbor hit bottom with a much smaller gap between the barrels lug and frame since it takes some doing to compress the end of the arbor or a steel bushing/shim in the bottom of the hole.
Brass (button)in the bottom of the whole will compress more easily than steel of course. The brass will be an easier seat in but.....the job should include the seat-in at the time of the job as well as is possible.
Anywhoooo......you have the job done well enough but it'll be easier to use a steel fender washer and a stone next time and leave the end of the arbor stronger with no hole in it. I've seen them cracked on the end of the arbor and had them welded and then filed back to size to fix.

[Lefty Dude]

Rifle;

Can one TIG weld the end of the Arbor, and file & stone for the correct dimension and fit ?

Thanks, lefty

[Fredcdobbs]

Thanks. I drilled, tapped and put in a SS button and filed to length. j

[Flint]

Some people weld a bit of material to the end of the arbor and hand file it to fit.  I have had no problems with Dillon buttons, or simulations of same I've turned on a lathe.  There is no recoil pressure on the spacer you've made and brass works fine.  I have also used a set screw in the end, there is no real need fpr a screw head to match the diameter of the arbor, just extend it.  The set screw is adjustable, and blue locktite willl hold it in the position chosen.

[rifle]

Just sittin here waddling around the forum and noticed this thread again. Feelin sorry fer myself since my lil Buddy hound dog passed on.

I'd thunkit would be logical to use a thin fender washer in the bottom of the hole to set the arbor/barrel with the arbor bottomed when the wedge is in because of ease of application/time and cost .

Anyone can get a small fender washer from Lowes or the hardware and file the diameter to fit in the barrel hole and.....do it so the fender washer stays in the hole and won't fall out. Trial and error stoning the flat washer to be the right thickness is easy enough.

Easier then welding and filing and the steel washer will not compress like brass buttons from Rugers can .....from the formidable force of the wedge inserted.

When welding the end of the arbor and then file fitting it backto the right shape entails betting the end of the arbor nice and perpendicular to the centerline of the arbor. That can be a pain in the arse if a person is picky enough and wants it actually perpencicular.

I just have the opinion the fender washer is the least trouble for an average Hombre wanting to get the desired result.

A good weld job with the filing and shaping is undetectable but then again so is the washer in the hole.

[Navy Six]

Rifle, no advice on the arbor but sorry to hear about your dog, know exactly how that feels.   Navy Six