Belgian Centaur with Thuer Conversion

[Hoof Hearted]

I don't have a mig or a tig anymore and since I'm retired can't justify the price of buying another one.  I had a couple of local shops tig the tips of the hammer faces.  The problem I was having is that they apparently weren't use to welding up small slots and the weld bridged.  When I milled the faces flat I had a lot of pits and sometimes fairly large holes.  So, I just started soldering on hard faces to the hammers.  Lately I have been using a mill to bore a flat bottom hole in the hammer face and soldering in a piece of round drill rod into the hammer face and then milling everything flat.  Welding would be easier, but necessity is the mother of invention.

In the case of "bridging" across a slot the best way to address this is to drill a round hole in the face and weld in a circular fashion.
The job you did on the hammer face on Lefty's Centaur was marvelous, I just wanted to warn the novice against increasing the length of the face of the hammer.

Regards, HH

[Pettifogger]

In the case of "bridging" across a slot the best way to address this is to drill a round hole in the face and weld in a circular fashion.
The job you did on the hammer face on Lefty's Centaur was marvelous, I just wanted to warn the novice against increasing the length of the face of the hammer.

Regards, HH

Right.  After the gun is set up, arbor adjusted, nipples installed, etc., then you can remove material from the face of the hammer so when the plate is installed the hammer nose length is correct.  Good warning.  If someone simply solders a plate on the hammer nose without shortening the nose first, the gun won't work correctly.

I'm still waiting for that rapid load secret Thuer you said you were working on. 

[Lefty Dude]

Wayne;
I will be at Cowtown tomorrow for the first outing with the piece. Klikatitat Bob and I are having Lunch at the Wild Horse about noon or a little after. And on the to range. You are invited for the pre-view.
Come and have Lunch with us.
Lefty