Touching Up Case Colors?

Started by Fredcdobbs, July 31, 2019, 11:20:27 PM

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Fredcdobbs

Hi Folks. I just bought a really nice Taylors Cattleman 12/22 5.5inch SAA. Very cool gun. Minor cosmetic trouble. The case colors didn't take in one corner of the frame. It's white metal.
Any idea how to touch up? I have the impression this part of the gun doesn't take bluing very well. I do have regular blue as well as Vans.
Something  to put a little color in this area.
Anyone have any experience with this.
Thanis in advance.

wildman1

I think folks have tried cold blue paste and a little heat, probably from a heat gun or hair drier. I would experiment before actually trying it on a visible spot.
wM1
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Coffinmaker


I have used Cold Blue paste to touch-up a funky spot of CCH.  I just "dabbed" on without rubbing.  Be sure and clean the area with Denatured Alcohol firs.  You may need to keep a little oil on the spot to prevent flash rust   :o

It isn't perfect.  However, it does look "fine from the Freeway"   ::)

Trooper Hook

Go to the Gunsmithing thread here and do a search for Faux color casehardening. A very good thread on this is there with some excellent photos of the results used. :)

Kent Shootwell

Quote from: Fredcdobbs on July 31, 2019, 11:20:27 PM
Hi Folks. I just bought a really nice Taylors Cattleman 12/22 5.5inch SAA. Very cool gun. Minor cosmetic trouble. The case colors didn't take in one corner of the frame. It's white metal.
Any idea how to touch up? I have the impression this part of the gun doesn't take bluing very well. I do have regular blue as well as Vans.
Something  to put a little color in this area.
Anyone have any experience with this.
Thanis in advance.
You may of seen some of my colorcase work here. At times an area comes out gray and I have brought the color out that is part of the case hardening colors. No chemicals are needed to do a good job. With the part clean and not assembled depending on were it?s at a focused heat can be applied to bring out the color. Not to confused with fake color case you are bring out the true colors of the case. This has worked on bone case but I?ve never tried it on cyenide case. Point a focused flame to the area needing work for a short time and the moment the color comes quench in water. Dry and oil. Be sure the flame is pointed in from the edge rather then towards the edge or the color will go to the edge and look poorly. It?s kind of art work.
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Quote from: Kent Shootwell on August 03, 2019, 08:36:39 PM
You may of seen some of my colorcase work here. At times an area comes out gray and I have brought the color out that is part of the case hardening colors. No chemicals are needed to do a good job. With the part clean and not assembled depending on were it?s at a focused heat can be applied to bring out the color. Not to confused with fake color case you are bring out the true colors of the case. This has worked on bone case but I?ve never tried it on cyenide case. Point a focused flame to the area needing work for a short time and the moment the color comes quench in water. Dry and oil. Be sure the flame is pointed in from the edge rather then towards the edge or the color will go to the edge and look poorly. It?s kind of art work.

Thank You Kent, that makes great sense!

I do not know why it never occured to me but It is exactly like "eyeball tempering" the edge of a knife or chisel, by applying heat to the back of the knife, and watching the colors run towards the edge.

like this

and this


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Something we used to use for an artificial Color Case finish on single shot rifle actions was Tincture of Benzoin. We polished the action to a mirror finish, degreased and painted a coat of the tincture on. We then used the small tip in an acetylene torch with the oxygen turned up high and played the flame over the action. It took practice to get it right but you could get excellent colors this way.  The amount of time the flame lingered in one place determined the color you got. It was tricky because you needed to move the flame just before you saw the color you were looking for. With practice you could duplicate the real thing.

The colors were not permanent. Over time handling and sunlight would fade the colors but for awhile they looked like the real thing.

Lucky
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