Slicking up Stoeger SxS

[TheOtherLeft]

Hi guys,

I have a new Stoeger Supreme. I've used wet & Dry sandpaper on the wearing surfaces - barrel latch and frame. It now drops down with a slight flick of the wrist when I work the lever (with the hammers still cocked). However when it needs to cock the hammers there is a lot more resistance I then need a bit of force. I understand many people shorten the Lock Spring. Will shortening this spring help with my problem?

Thanks.

[Octagonal Barrel]

I'm working on a similar project, since I recently got a new Stoeger Supreme too.  I found this website to have some real good info on Stoeger work (along with just about most every other shotgun a CAS shooter is likely to get):

http://marauder.homestead.com/Shotgun.html

This schematic alone is good enough reason to visit the site:  http://marauder.homestead.com/files/stoegerparts.html

You said your issue is cocking related.  I can feel the force needed to cock my gun when I open it, but it's not enough to trouble me.  I'm assuming you've compared your Stoeger with others at a CAS match and that your gun really is cocking too stiffly - just to make sure you're chasing a real problem?  (Just thought I'd ask... You do sound like you're already sure it's real.)

It's actually opening the breech a ways that cocks the gun, not simply unlatching the breach.  The latch spring is different from the cocking springs, so I don't think reducing that spring will make your gun easier to cock.  It will change how easy it is to move the lever to the side and open the breech in the first place, and that might speed up the reloading process a little.  If you aren't bothered by the stiffness of your latch lever, you don't need to monkey with the latch spring.  If you are bothered by it, then shortening the latch lever spring (or replacing it with a reduced tension spring) will help that issue.  Some people do have trouble with the gun opening slightly on recoil and misfiring on the second barrel after shortening or replacing the latch lever spring.  Marauder has some great notes from gunsmith Coyote Cap on why this happens and what to do about it.

My own Stoeger opens smoothly enough after a little stoning like you did, but it required unusual force to open after firing.  After reading Marauder's site, I was able to observe that the factory firing pins were not retracting immediately and sticking in the spent primers, and I fixed it.  I recommend reading through the site thoroughly.

By the way, Long Hunter Shooting Supply http://www.longhunt.com/ sells the reduced tension latch spring for a just few dollars, so you don't have to shorten the stock one (keep it in case you want to go back to it for some reason).  Long Hunter also sells blued stainless steel firing pins, and a very cool and inexpensive 3 pin spanner wrench to open the firing pin fastening bolts with.  In my opinion, even if you don't think you need the firing pins, you should pick up the wrench.

[TheOtherLeft]

Thanks for the info.

Yes I've spent a lot of time looking through Marauder's website in the past.

After firing my Stoeger during a club CAS match it is still very stiff to open & cock the hammers. Others at the club think it's stiff because it's new so all it needs is more firing. I can break it open but it requires quite a bit of force - a few hard slaps does the trick.

The lever is quite stiff but manageable for the time being. I might shorten the lever spring in the future but it's cocking of the hammers that is eating up the clock.

[Stu Kettle]

You might need to polish the ends of the cocking levers where they rub on the bearing surface on the forearm - if they're rough it makes opening harder & will wear out faster. Also check that the extractor slides freely - if the rod it slides on is rough or a little bit bent can be another place that causes drag.