How to trim your Spencer Brass, SORI 23

[paledun]

I have read and reread this thread multiple times since 56-50 rounds loaded using Starline brass has limitations.  My reloads using a .512  Lyman bullet fired perfectly well but frequently jamed in the loading and extraction process.  These problems can be  reduced with slowness and care in the process but would have won few praises for the troops actually using the Spencer.

I initially attempted to form 56-50 cases using 50-70 cases with some predictable results.  Except with cases made by Bell (unknown date of manufacture) all other case wall thickness was to thick to load a .512 bullet that would chamber in my Spencer.  Neither Forester nor Sinclair made equipment to hand-trim wall thickness from the outside.  I understand Forester will actually produce an inside trimmer to your specifications to fit their case sizer but did not contact them for cost.  Bell cases trimmed to 1.171 (will address this length later) have the same wall thichness as the Starline 56-50 at 1.151 (.014 vs .013 Starline) and will load and extract from the chamber in my Spencer without problems after the rim width is reduced to .651 from their original width.  The current Starline 50-70 is much better.  I trimmed the case to my desired length and the resulting wall thickness of .014 plus the .512 bullet worked perfectly with  loading, firing and extracting.  And, I did not have to reduce the rim thickness as was required for the Bell brass.  For an explanation for the longer case length to 1.171 rather than the nominal 1.151.  These extra length allows me to crimp on the front of the bullet ahead of the top lube grove rather than crimp on top of the grove.  The over-all length is kept at a standard 1.51-1.52 inches which is what my Spencer likes.
 
Now for a question for which SORI did not have a response.  Is there anyone using suitable Spencer brass for a blank? I have a pile of 50-70 brass that I cut and received cut that will not make suitable Spencer cases withiout reducing wall thickness.  I could always load them up and glue an over-powder card in place and give it a try but thought I would ask if any for actually done this and what  your efforts produced.  Thanks for the response.  Any questions response share with the group or retiredflyfisherman@gmail.com if your wish.  Paledun  PS  I have more than enough Starline 50-70 brass than is needed.  If anyone wants a few, 25 or so at the Starline cost per case plus shipping, let me know.

[paledun]

Come on, guys.  Was my post just "old news" to you all?  There has not been a new post to SORI 23 since November, 2011.  And, only one post addressing wall thickness using a lath which is not available to most.  If your past experiences have shown that trimming the  Starline 50-70 brass to 56-50 length without resulting wall thickness concerns, why has this information not been added to SORI 23?  Are there no new SSS members purchasing old Spencers and attempting to bring them to life anymore? 50 plus views and no comments? Paledun

[Trailrider]

I have zero experience with .56-50 Spencers or ammo. All my experience is producing usable brass for the .56-56 Spencer. When I was working with the .56-56, the only modern brass available was either .50-70 brass froman outfit called Buffalo Arms (I have no idea if this is the same outfit as the current firm by that name. This was about 30 years ago, or more (time flies!!  0. or the .50-70 brass from Dixie. These, of course, needed to be shortened. As I didn't want to mess with heel bullets, like the originals, I decided to ream the cutdown cases deep enough to seat straight-side bullets.  I needed a case collet to hold the cut cases so I could chuck the reamer in my drill press. Forster provided both. I have no idea what such items will cost, nor whether Forster would still make them, but that was my approach. I used a Lyman #533475AX hollow-base bullet mould.

I would also recommend annealling the cases about half-way down the length of the cut case. I would do this after reaming, as the annealling process would tend to work-harden the case, and it will also be harder in the area of the cut than at the mouth.

[Two Flints]

Hi Paledun,

I created the SORI Thread and I believe I have it "locked," which means I am the only person who can add additional posts to the SORI Thread.

If I think, or if an SSS member thinks that a post or thread might be of special interest to SSS members, and I agree, then it will be added to the SORI Thread.  If every SSS member and guest had access to the SORI Thread and wanted to add whatever post they thought was important then the SORI thread would become just another adjunct SSS discussion forum.

Regarding your comment . . . Is there anyone using suitable Spencer brass for a blank?

Well, I have been using the Spencer brass blanks provide by SSS member Todd Koster who can be reached at this link:  http://westernsharpshooters.webs.com/blankssafetytest.htm


These blanks work just fine in my repro and original Spencers, as do the "red" Spencer blanks.

Two Flints

[PvtGreg]

You might want to check this post for a workable lathe for bringing down case wall thickness.

http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,40676.msg513914.html#msg513914

Greg

[Two Flints]

There you go Paledun    and thanks to you Pvt Gregg for the link

Two Flints