gum tragacanth

Started by Michigan Maverick, March 09, 2006, 02:36:07 PM

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Michigan Maverick

can you tell me how to use gum-trag when edge finishing projects?

Bojack

Hi:
After I slick up the edges using a little water, with an ironstone wheel which is mounted on a arbor and is motor driven. Then just apply a little to the edges with a finger.  Then reslick on the ironstone wood wheel. It only takes a little tiny bit. When finished wipe off any excess with a cloth.  To finish off I then apply edge coat. You can do this by hand. The ironstone wheel allows me to get a smooth as glass edge on straps and belts as well after using an edge beveler.

My ironstone  wheel has grooves cut in it which fit up to about a 12 oz piece of leather.  You just run it thru the groove that fits the best.  I always had trouble with the edge of my holsters where it is sewed together till I ran into this scheme which was given to me by Gordon Davis who was my only competition years ago.  He experminted wuith different types of wood and decided that Ironstone was the best. If you have access to a wood lathe you can turn one out.
Ironstone is very expensive also. Won't wear out. Mine's been running for 20+ years.

Try a little bit of it, even if you are slicking up by hand, takes the edge to a whole new level.

John Bianichi told me years ago that one mark of a good leather man is how well he finishes his edges.

Regards, Bojack, Western Leather Co. Inc.
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Rascal Ralph

Bojack- is this the same as "Lignum Vita" or iron wood? Years ago, tandy sold slicking wheels of this. RR
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Bojack

Hi:
Not familiar with that name?  Don't know if Ironwood is the real name or what everyone calls it.
I suppose any real hard wood will do the job.  I had a fella turn me a wheel out of oak with a 1/2 inch hole to fit on the arbor and it worked pretty good, but not as fast as Ironwood. The other secret I found out about years ago was to use  an electric motor that turns about 3500 RPM most single phase motors you can buy cheaply only turn at about 1750 RPM and don't do a very good job. Plus it takes too long.  With the Ironwood turning at that speed you have to pay attention and not apply very much pressure or you can burn the leather. Hope this helps?

FYI I bought one of those Tandy slicking wheels years ago and it diodn't seem to work very well.  Still laying around the shop somwhere.

Regards, Bojack
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Michigan Maverick

Do I wait till it dries or use it while it is still wet?

Bojack

Hi:
It's kinda pasty, use while wet, that is why you just spread it evenly on the leather, a very light amount.  Burnish, then wipe off the excess.

Bojack
Co-Founder Cajon Cowboys
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Marshal Will Wingam

Quote from: Rascal Ralph on March 10, 2006, 11:46:31 AMBojack- is this the same as "Lignum Vita" or iron wood? Years ago, tandy sold slicking wheels of this. RR
Although lignum vitae looks like ironwood, it is much more resinous and consequently better for burnishing or slicking. My drill-mount edger is made of lignum vitae. I also have a small piece of it and a small piece of ironwood. The ironwood doesn't do the same job for me.

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Klondike

Years ago Tandy used to make a hardwood slicker, now all they have is plastic. Sure wish I could find one of the old slickers.

E.R.Beaumont

Howdy All.

Mav,Pard after I bevel the edges I apply the GT with a q-tip.  Then while it is still wet I rub it vigorusly with a scrap of canvas.  It gives a fine finish and only takes a little while.  I think that if you check you can get the edge finished real good by just applying the dye and rubbing it with a canvas scrap.  I think that the rubbing is more important than what you rub it with.  The slicker works real good with bee's wax, I use a hunk of walnut with a groove with it for a slicker.

That is just my two bits in the kitty.
Regards, Beaumont
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Blackey Cole

Where can you get these wooden wheels, right now I use a hobby grinder with a wheel on it to hael slick the edges if I use bees wax if use the gum stuff I slick the edges with an antler then die it then take an acid bruch and cut all but about a 1/4" of the bristles off and apply lightly with teh bruch.  It works well.  I have triead several hand slicking methods and it all depends on how I feel that day is to the method that I use.  I would like to get one of them there motors with the arbors that JB mentions in his tapes.  I think a burnisher on one end and a large sand drum on the other woudl work great.  But for now I will use my hooby grinder with teh various attachment sthat I have aquired.
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Klondike

Blackey,
Sorry to be so long in responding to your question. I did not have an answer until this past week. While setting on the think tank, and looking through the Weaver Catalogue, I found what you and I have been looking for. I don't know how many times I must have looked past it, but on page 200 nthere is a wooden -9- leather slicker. It can be chucked into a drill (which I have done) has three grooves for differnt weight leather, and a long tapered point to get into tight areas, like buckle slots. I bought one and have used it already and it does a great job, and I mean GREAT job, much better than the plastic from  Tandy. The cost is $24.95, and I think they have a $50.00 minimum, but I am sure you can find something else to make up the difference ;D. Hope this helps. It is amazing what you can find while on the throne ;D ;D

Blackey Cole

Weaver will not deal with me since I am just a hobbist.  They require a tax ID and I can not get one because of my disability income.  Thanks anyway.
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Klondike

Blackey,
If you want one, next time I order or I am sure if someone else on here orders from Weaver, I or we will order you one and ship it to you.

Blackey Cole

Thanks. That will be fine.
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