56-56 Spencer Brass for Original Rifle

[cwbuff]

I just bought some new brass for shooting my original 56-56 Spencer with a centerfire conversion. The new brass is cut-down 50-70 Government Starline. I also have some cut-down Bell 50-70. The new brass case length is shorter than the Bell brass, but both are longer than the original rimfire brass. Here are the case length measurements:
0.875 Original rimfire
1.016 Starline cut-down 50-70
1.163 Bell cut-down 50-70

What case length do people find the most effective?

[Two Flints]

cwbuff,

Have you checked out the SORI thread?  You might find info there answering your question about length.

Try this link, too.

http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,40010.0.html

Two Flints

[Eggman]

Just to stir things up a bit, the case length has some fudge in it so long as it will chamber. You need to determine your bullet and load (preferably black powder), Then get your overall cartridge length at or a hair under 1.65" so they will feed thru the magazine. A side note, my original .56 .56 reconfigured to .56 .50 will not eject the Starline Spencer cases very well --- rim is undersized.

[cwbuff]

I just shot the Spencer last weekend using Swiss 1.5F powder. Worked well. But a number of cartridges did not chamber. I put the calipers on them when I got home. OAL was OK. The problem was the bullets were swelled out at the case mouth. When I loaded these, I was having a problem getting my seating die properly set. If the bullet stop was too high, then the bullet would stick in the die and no roll crimp could be applied. If I put the bullet stop too low, the bullet crushes a bit and causes the chambering problem. I still have to work out a good procedure.

[Herbert]

The 56-56 takes a healed bullet(which bullet are you useing) so you need a special tool or die to crimp the bullet,also what loading dies are you useing.You can oftern crimp healed base cartridges with the full lenth sizer die by removing the de-capper rod and runing the loaded cartridge full lenth into the FL sizer,it pays to compress the powder before seating the bullet so the powder is not trying to push the bullet out,the bullet should be able to sit on the compresed powder by seating it by hand then runing it through the FL sizer

[cwbuff]

I'm using the Rapine healed bullet. I'm using a CH4D 56-56 Spencer die set. I was using the bullet seating die in that set.

[Arizona Trooper]

You may need to neck ream your cases. If the case neck wall is too thick, you can have the problem you are describing. This is often an issue with cut down 50-70s.

[cwbuff]

Given the die set that I have, should I just use the sizing die to seat the bullet?

[Herbert]

Given the die set that I have, should I just use the sizing die to seat the bullet?

That is what I would do,seat the bullet by hand then crimp yousing the FL sizer die with the decaping pin removed.Reaming the neck is also a good idear ,measure the size of the heal of the bollet and find a drill bit .002 inch smaller and ream out the neck with this bit to the depth of the expander plug + a bit,this will roughen the incide of the neck and give a better grip to the bullet when crimped and may even allow you to use the CH seating die.I would also look for a better bullet mould,meaning one that takes more lube,I never had any luck with the Rapine 56-56 mould as it just doed not carry enough lube fo moltiple shots

[cwbuff]

I have some Lyman 533476 bullets that I have not yet tried. Any tips on seating those bullets?

[Trailrider]

I have some Lyman 533476 bullets that I have not yet tried. Any tips on seating those bullets?

Is the mould marked 533476 or is there an AX suffix to the number, presuming you have the die, not just the bullets.  These are a hollow base bullet. With Lyman #2 alloy, they should come out about .538-.540".

Here are my notes:
Useing DGW or BELL .50-70 brass.
Trim length to 0.998-1.002" OAL and deburr.
For use with straight cylindrical bullets, inside neck ream to .525" dia., slightly deeper than the length of the seated portion of the bullet. This should produce a .0125-.0135" wall thickness at the case mouth.  Huntington Die Specialties recommended a .003-.005" interference fit between the inside of the case and the bullet.
You should probably anneal the case about half-way down the remaining length of the cutdown brass. I set my brass in a pan of water, on a filled pill bottle, which the case sitting on top and the water about half-way up the brass. Put it on a lazy susan so you can rotate the whole thing. Use a propane torch until you can see the brass change color (it probably won't get cherry red), then quickly knock the case into the water, off the pill bottle.
For a .535" dia. bullet, expand the case with a  .528 expander plug. With a .540 bullet, use a .536" plug.
Seat the bullet and crimp firmly. If there is difficulty chambering the round, size the case in a .50-70 sizer die with a .575" spacer under the locking ring (RCBS .50-70 sizer die).

I had a set of custom dies made years ago by RCBS so I didn't have to cut the bottom of a .50-70 die set.

Believe it or not, the bullets cast from Lyman #2 were more accurate than softer ones! But your mileage may vary.