Maiden shoot...

[FrontierWest]

For those that want to know, finally loaded up some rounds and took my Spencer 56/56 ser. number 50850 on a shoot.

It has an early S&S conversion block in it and the original block.

I'll list things as I know to help others.

using the conversion block, one runs into the same issue as a Sharps m1868 50/70.. that is when the hammer is down in the fired position, it pushes the firing pin out and causes it to drag across the cartridge face and primer.  Same is true when ejecting, though not as bad.  Remedy, put weapon to half cock and problem solved.

Next I'm using the MGO .545 mold and found that my casings are too long for my gun (overall length is 1.670).  The length is OK but the diameter of the bullet and the way it is made, the bullet seats itself into the lands and grooves some .90 plus thousandths too much causing it to chamber very hard.  I have very good 9 Plus rifling on my gun and need to shorten the overall length by at least .90. 

Now as far as feeding from the tube, everything works like a champ!  I used cut down 50/70brass that has been fire formed in my 50/70 guns so I can skip a step the sizing end.  One still needs to flair the neck a tad to accept the bullet.

I scaled down the powder (Swiss 1 1/2) to 35 grains.  This seems to be a nice load for the 375 grain bullet.  I shot out to 200 yards and was a mile to the right!  No worries though, the rear sight is a dovetail and w/ a brass punch, I can tap it to the right until it is on zero left and right.  I'm not concerned with the up and down part yet.

I did find that when I was shooting at 50 yards, my groups (if one could call them groups) were about 6 inches without a rest.  Pretty consistent though.   When I get all the little things in order, I'll fine tune from a bench rest until it is real good.  I want to get an Elk with it this hunting season.  Got one with all my other antique arms so far and this one needs to be proven in the field.

Any questions are welcome.

john

[Jobe Holiday]

"I shot out to 200 yards and was a mile to the right!  No worries though, the rear sight is a dovetail and w/ a brass punch, I can tap it to the right until it is on zero left and right."

Always move the rear sight in the direction you want the bullet to go.

J.

[Trailrider]

"using the conversion block, one runs into the same issue as a Sharps m1868 50/70.. that is when the hammer is down in the fired position, it pushes the firing pin out and causes it to drag across the cartridge face and primer.  Same is true when ejecting, though not as bad.  Remedy, put weapon to half cock and problem solved." - Frontier West

Of course, the original rimfire firing pin did the same thing. One way to negate the requirement to half- or full-cock is to trim the rear of the central fire striker just enough to create an inertial firing pin. This has to be done VERY carefully lest you take too much off the pin. (I bought a couple of extra parts when i was setting up my conversion breechblock...just in case!    )

You do NOT take anything off the firing pin itself. There is a distinct safety advantage to this, including the lessening of the chance of breaking the firing pin if you forget to half- or full-cock the hammer before and after firing. (Actually, when I shoot rapid fire, I'd full cock before levering.

[FrontierWest]

Well I'd have figured that out as soon as I shot again.. "left"    Any how, you got the point! 

I just don't want to trim too much off the casing height as then I'm dealing with reducing powder again to make room for the bullet.  Maybe 30 grains would suffice?  Any comments on that?  I used to have a chronograph, and wish I did again to see the MVV's.  I have a feeling it's going to be a big .22.. but it kicks harder!

john

[Herbert]

Compresion die is a must for loading this cartridge,even shortened a bit you will have no trouble compresing 35gr of Swiss 1 1/2 in the 56-56.This may sound strange but you will probley get better acuracy at a 100 yds than 50 yds