Problem with Series '80 firing pin in R1 1911

Started by PJ Hardtack, December 12, 2012, 02:41:46 PM

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PJ Hardtack

The Series '80-type firing pin linkage in my Remington R1 1911 caused the firing pin to be locked forward, protruding quite a bit past the breech face.

Whasamadda my gun and how do I get rid of this unnecessary problem?  Once was enough .....
"I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted, I won't be laid a hand on.
I don't do these things to others and I require the same from them."  John Wayne

Pettifogger

Obviously that is very dangerous.  Basically turns the gun into a full auto.  I would send it back to Remington.  Otherwise, you will have to completely disassemble it and find where it is binding and fix it if you want to do it yourself and potentially void the warranty.

PJ Hardtack

I couldn't care less about the warranty, if getting rid of the Series '80 linkage and making it a Series '70 will cure the problem.

All the parts seem to be fine - no burrs, chips or cracks. The firing pin hole is clean with no visible issues.
"I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted, I won't be laid a hand on.
I don't do these things to others and I require the same from them."  John Wayne

PJ Hardtack

I think I fingered it out .....

With the slide upside down in a padded vise, I determined that it is possible to push the firing pin forward enough to bypass the Series '80-type plunger, which then holds it in place.

I found that I had a spare firing pin spring that was 3/16" longer than the factory spring, which translates to more tension. I installed that, so we'll see if the problem develops again.  I don't think that the hammer spring will have any trouble overcoming the new spring.
Hopefully, the firing pin will no longer be able to overtravel to the point where it gets locked at the extreme of it's forward travel.
"I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted, I won't be laid a hand on.
I don't do these things to others and I require the same from them."  John Wayne

Lumpy Grits

'Hav'n you along-Is like loose'n 2 good men'

PJ Hardtack

I agree that doing so would have prevented the problem, but I'm glad I detected it. I will be contacting Remington about it.
It is a factory fault as it sets up a shooter for a potentially dangerous situation and should not be part of any gun design.

I have noticed a side benefit to installing the longer firing pin spring and dry firing it (yes, with dummy rds) ..... it has cushioned the hammer fall. The front sight is less disturbed by the lower impact.

Addendum: Just learned on a 1911 forum that the Series 80 firing pin block pin is SUPPOSED  to function as it did on my gun. Pushing the firing pin forward until it is captured by the block pin allows you to strip the retaining plate and firing pin easily.

BUT - it is not supposed to happen when dry firing. That was a function of the too weak firing pin spring.
"I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted, I won't be laid a hand on.
I don't do these things to others and I require the same from them."  John Wayne

cal44walker

If you're not 100% sure, send it back. Something is binding (probably the plunger) and needs work. If you do go ahead and live fire it, load 2 at a time so you don't empty the mad into the sky/range roof  ;D

cal44walker

PJ Hardtack

No burrs, nothing binding; and I did some light polishing of the parts. I doubt that the inertia of the firing pin will overcome the new spring.
I've read that Remington is looking at going to the Series '70 trigger on future production, the Series '80 design being an ingenious solution to a non-existent problem.

I've been present when 1911s have gone full auto after bum trigger jobs - once indoors, once outdoors. It takes about 3/4 of a second to empty a mag and the look on the shooter's face is priceless!
"I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted, I won't be laid a hand on.
I don't do these things to others and I require the same from them."  John Wayne

tommy4toes

Here's your fix - http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/frame-parts/frame-hardware/fillers/tj-s-1911-series-80-to-series-70-conversion-shims-prod13121.aspx

Then you can remove the plunger; they are a safety issue as they can by themselves lock the slide to the frame and leave you with a non-functioning firearm ( read: hammer) when you need it most. This mod will also reduce trigger pull slightly.

PJ Hardtack

Tommy - I went back to check on that part and there in bold type it says: "This item cannot be shipped out of the USA." God knows that the world would come to an end if that was allowed!
Good thing the pic is so clear. Doesn't take a master craftsman to make one from piece of scrap.

Thanks for the tip, Tommy!

If I have even a hint more of a problem with this gun, I'll be ordering one of those parts or having my 'smith make one up.

BTW - Series '80 linkage or no, you wouldn't believe the trigger pull I've got on this gun! Out of the box, it wasn't bad for a service grade gun, but with 500+ rounds downrange, I wouldn't touch it. The more I shoot it, the better it gets, and it isn't just a matter of me getting used to it.
"I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted, I won't be laid a hand on.
I don't do these things to others and I require the same from them."  John Wayne

tommy4toes

You're very welcome. Before companies started selling those, we used to make them from hacksaw blades. The shape is not critical, just the hole spacing and the thickness - it keeps the sear and hammer from moving laterally when the Series 80 linkage is removed. Once you remove the plunger as well, you will have no issues with the firing pin locking. Good luck!

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