How to obtain the dark russet look

[Cliff Fendley]

If your just buying a side or two at a time Weaver might be an option for you if you can get an account with them. You may have to be a real business to do so, I'm not sure. Even though they sell TR leather Weaver seams to do a good job of picking out some good stuff if you ask. That is where I have got my Herman Oak since I didn't want to buy 10 sides at a time.

After bad experiences in consistant quality and having to send material back to Wicket and Craig I have started using Thoroughbred leather since their main warehouse is in Louisville about 20 miles from me and I can go actually pick it out. It sort of compares to Chahin leather to me which has been good in my experience. Thoroughbred are the suppliers for El Paso saddlery, Galco, and several other big makers now.

They have some very nice Skirting leather too but the only problem is they don't have a way of splitting leather since they are wholesale warehouse and I don't have a way of getting thin skirting material for straps, lining, and money belts to match.

Their regular Oak carving leather is more like skirting leather just in the un dyed color, it seems more oily or has that "stuffed" consistency compared to other carving leather. Plus they have backs and double bends that I can usually get and not have the belly waste, I just tell the salesman to call me when a truckload comes in and I get to pick the cream of the crop

[ChuckBurrows]

Tanned leather, on the other hand, is dead, and neatsfoot oil will sooner or later destroy the fibers of the leather! While Lexol(R) Leather Conditioner contains neatsfoot oil, it has been combined with other chemicals that render it great for leather treatment. I have used Lexol for three decades, and properly applied...DON'T OVERDO IT...it keeps leather from drying out and cracking. Others use Piccard, but I prefer Lexol.

With all due respect but scientific tests of real neatsfoot oil and other leather oils have proved that neatsfoot oil does not destroy leather in and of itself - on the other hand ANY oil over applied to leather (above 22%) will cause problems by breaking down the cell walls - real neatsfoot is BTW best applied by heating to 90° F (note Bianchi uses a heater for his oil)
Also Lexol Conditioner does not contain neatsfoot oil - per the manufacturer it is a proprietary analog of sperm whale oil - most likely using jojoba as a base - Lexol does make an NF Neatsfoot dressing but that is not the same as the conditioner.

The Weaver Leather product is not an oil but rather an additive - not sure what it's made from but it does a great job....

[Cliff Fendley]

I hate to completely hijack this thread from it's original question.

Chuck, I understand Fiebings is the only true Neatsfoot oil still being made. I've used both it and Sheps Pure Neatsfoot oil from Weaver and can't tell any difference on a new product but if other brands are made from hog lard how will it effect leather if used periodically?

[Slowhand Bob]

Hog lard will cause your holsters to put on weight and get high cholesterol!   

[ChuckBurrows]

I hate to completely hijack this thread from it's original question.

Chuck, I understand Fiebings is the only true Neatsfoot oil still being made. I've used both it and Sheps Pure Neatsfoot oil from Weaver and can't tell any difference on a new product but if other brands are made from hog lard how will it effect leather if used periodically?

I've used both the Fiebings and the Lexol NF which is hog lard based on the same gear and see no real difference or problem - both types are made to the exact same gov't standard so they are virtually the same anyway.
On another note when I don't have access to good deer or beef tallow I use pure hog lard (Manteca brand) for making my dubbin which is a mix of oil, tallow or lard, and beeswax - I throw a bit of pine pitch in the mix and it basically comes out similar to Montana Pitchblend. I use it almost exclusively these days as a final finish - it re-feeds some of the oils back into the leather lost while dying and with the wax in it it buffs up to a nice satin shine. The lard makes a good mix and I've never had it go rancid even here in the hot summer sun.

[Cliff Fendley]

Hmmm.... one more good use for deer tallow. I'm going to have to look into that recipe. The more I do this the less I like store bought dyes and finishes.

It's been warm and the deer I've gotten this year havent had much fat on them at all. Going out tomorrow with my muzzle loader. Hopefully they have started putting on some fat.

Hopefully will be rendering some tallow before too long.

[Camano Ridge]

I am the original OP and I don't think this thread has been totaly hijacked at all. I wanted to know how to get the color of what they call dark russet on holsters in packing iron. I know part of getting the darkening is from oils and age. This has turned into a very informative thread. Feel free to keep going.

Scott