Storing your contact cement withmout bottle crudlies??

[Tallbald]

I use contact cemennt to assemble holster and sheath parts priorp to sewing. But just the short exposure to air while the bottle is open, leads to dried cement on the bottle threads, thickening of the cement, and the need for channekllocks to remove the top. Do you keep the small amount you need in an aftersmarket bottle? What kind? I like the integral gluert brush on the top, but if there's a better qway to prevent top-lock and wasdtage, please let me know. Pardon my typing as my fingers are sticky. Been using contact cement you know. Thmks. Don

[Cliff Fendley]

I try not to get cement on the threads. Store the brush in a separate container with thinner in it and put a lid on the cement without a brush.

The quart cans are the same as our PVC glue and primer come in so I took a new can and dumped the primer into some old ones in order to get a clean can. Then I broke the wire dauber off the lid and filled the new can with Barge Thinner (or whatever brand you use).

Store the Barge brush and lid in the thinner can and the plain lid seals the Cement when not in use. You only dip the brush in far enough to get the cement and it's not all over the stem of the brush that way.

Hope that makes sense. It does work.

[Springfield Slim]

I try not to get it on the threads, and only buy the small bottles of Dap Contact cement. Less messy than Barge's, works fine as a temporary cement to hold leather for sewing. I don't line holsters so for me it is good enough.

[Slowhand Bob]

I save the wide mouth glass jars, mayo/etc, and a seperate spreader, seldom, use brushes any more.  A couple of guys on here pointed me towards the hardware store glue, Weldwood.  Much prefer it over the others now and find it easy to clean up behind.  Screw that lid on and wait a few minutes, remove it and peel the snot like residue off easily! 

[ChuckBurrows]

I try not to get cement on the threads. Store the brush in a separate container with thinner in it and put a lid on the cement without a brush.

The quart cans are the same as our PVC glue and primer come in so I took a new can and dumped the primer into some old ones in order to get a clean can. Then I broke the wire dauber off the lid and filled the new can with Barge Thinner (or whatever brand you use).

Store the Barge brush and lid in the thinner can and the plain lid seals the Cement when not in use. You only dip the brush in far enough to get the cement and it's not all over the stem of the brush that way.

Hope that makes sense. It does work.

What Cliff said - I have used the real expensive glue pots and the cheap ones as well and nothing has worked as well as this method. To keep glue off the threads - apply a thin coat of Vaseline on both the can and the lid  threads
- when things start getting a bit sticky clean off the lid and threads with a paper towel and a bit of thinner and reapply the Vaseline.

My thinner can with brush is now about 12 years old and while a bit funky on the outside from drips still going strong. BTW - when then thinner starts getting a bit too thick add it or at least most of it to the glue - usually works out that about the time I need to thin my glue the thinner is getting thick.......

[Tallbald]

I bought a quart of Weldwood contact cement for same price as small bottle of stuff from Tandy's. I am so used to brushes though, so I guess I need to get a separate thinner filled one as suggested. Maybe a poly bottle with a plastic lid would be easy to wipe clean. I'll look around. thanks. Don.