One of my 1860 Richard Mason conversions has a hitch

[Mean Bob Mean]

It will shoot fine, cocks fine, a few times, even a few cycles, then it will bind--even when clean.  

Is this a product of a piece of leftover manufacturing detritus?

Any and all help is greatly appreciated,

Yours,

Mean Bob

[Gus Walker]

Howdy Bob i had a similar thing with my 72 opentop after trying everything it turned out the screw holding the loading gate had backed out a tad.

[Long Johns Wolf]

If the wedge is pushed in all the way it will bind.
Just have the tip prodtruding on the right side of the barrel lug.
And check if the arbor has the proper length because it is usually a tad too short ... which is an Italian disease.
If yes, that should be corrected.
Long Johns Wolf

[Graveyard Jack]

I do recall my Open Top having a substantial burr in the hand slot. Once cleaned up, no problems whatsoever.

[Mean Bob Mean]

Will try all suggestions, have screwed around with wedge already.

Thanks All!

[Pettifogger]

The only way to get proper wedge adjustment is to correct the barrel to arbor fit.  Almost all Ubertis have an arbor that is to short.  No matter what you do with the wedge, especially as the gun is shot and everything loosens up, you will never get satisfactory results until the arbor is fixed.

[Mean Bob Mean]

The only way to get proper wedge adjustment is to correct the barrel to arbor fit.  Almost all Ubertis have an arbor that is to short.  No matter what you do with the wedge, especially as the gun is shot and everything loosens up, you will never get satisfactory results until the arbor is fixed.

I may try screwing around with it but I am no Edison with tools.

[Pettifogger]

http://www.theopenrange.net/forum/index.php?topic=7988.0

[Crow Choker]

Mean Bob: I had a Uberti Open Top (44 Spec/44Colt) that when new after firing two rds, the cylinder would stick tighter than a tick. There was no problem cycling it when empty or when loaded up, the cylinder would spin on half cock and/or cycle fine by bring to full cock and then bringing the hammer down. But--everytime I would fire it, after two rds, I would have to assist the cylinder to the next live chamber. I noticed after a few times with this, drag marks or semi-circular scratches on the new Starline brass. They were being made by a small burr on the recoil shield in the area of the loading gate. Figured that upon firing the round, the dimension of the brass changed somewhat causing the fired brass to rub on the burr, binding things up enough to prevent the cylinder from turning. Firing two rds would bring the first round fired into contact wih the burr. These were not hot rds either, loaded to respectable pressure and fps for the gun, ie CAS loads. The burr was hardly noticeable and thee ol' finger rub test wasn't real bad either. Stoned the burr off and never had the problem again.

[Mean Bob Mean]

Crow Choker:  I will examine the brass as well, thanks amigo!

[rifle]

Some of those guns have cylinders that have the milled area between the ratchet teeth on the back of the cylinder too deep. The hand coming up gets between them and sticks out of the hands channel too far and binds on the top of the hand recess. The cylinders could use replaced but.......with the ones with "not too deep" ratchet teeth cuts on the rear.
The cylinders with the ratchets too deep at the rear can be used if.......the hands top is not worn on the right hand edge so they stay "inside the hand recess" and can't come out forward too far.
This is just saying that the hand may need replaced whereas there's no wear on the top edge letting the hand stick out of the recess and go too deep in the cylinders ratchet teeth at the rear and protrude and hit the top of the hand recess and bind.
The hand when worked with the action ,with the cylinders too deep at the ratchets, needs to stay in the hand channel even when the cylinder is not in the gun.