Ruining My Ruger?

[Bad Hand Dan]

I'm new to CAS.

I've got a little problem:

I bought a Ruger 357 Vaquero in Stainless. I love it. Better than my Kimber .45!

I start practicing with 38 special lead reloads from Miwall

I run 400 rounds through the gun in about 2 weeks - my accuracy is getting worse, not better

I notice I can't seat a 357 shell inthe gun (sticks out about 1/8 inch)

I pull the cylinder to clean it. I try a couple of different solvents and bore brushes. I work on it a loooooong time.

I still seem to have a .38 special insted of a 357 as the 357 round WILL NOT seat.   Very distressing.

Observations so far:

1. Hoppes No. 9 is NOT a lead solvent, as it claims on the label.

2. Apparently,I'm not going to fix this with solvent


Can anyone tell me how to fix this?

[Doc Shapiro]

What you're finding is a buildup of carbon in the chamber.  It occurs when you shoot a shorter cartridge than the chamber is actually designed for.  It'll always form if you shoot .38's.  If you shoot .357's it won't.

Lewis Lead Remover is a good tool for gettin it out.  Sometimes you can use a sized and slightly belled .357 case and tap it through with a mallet.

There are other techniques as well.

Keep it at, it'll free up.

Doc

[Wrangler Rich]

Bad Hand Dan,

  If you can find a glass jar large enough to put your cylinder in, cover it with the Hoppes #9, and let it sit for a few days,( put a lid on it too) it will make removing the buildup a lot easier. 
  Brownells have the Lewis Lead remover, and that is a good tool to have.  Not only will it help with the Cylinder, it will help with the bore and Forcing Cone.  If you shoot lead this is a tool that is almost a "must have".

http://www.brownells.com/Default.aspx


Type in Lewis Lead Remover

[Bad Hand Dan]

Thank you gents so much for your input!

At least I haven't wrecked my gun.

You guys are the best.

Bad Hand

[St. George]

Good advice...

Now I'll add a little.

I use Break-Free as a primary lubricant/cleaner, since I saw how well it improved the cyclic action on the M-60 GPMG when it first came out.
Matter of fact - that was the selling point to the Military - the test showing its increased lubricity over that of 'Lubricant, Small Arms' (LSA).

When shaken well enough to put them into suspension - its microscopic Teflon spheres  fill in the unseen crevices - providing a really slick surface - but then - you may already know that.

As a solvent - I prefer it to Hoppe's #9 - though the 'scent' of Hoppe's can also qualify as an aphrodisiac...

Internally - I like a product called 'Pro-Gold' - as it stays where placed and there's a value to that.

After normal cleaning - running an almost dry patch of Break-Free through your cylinders and the bore can measurably help your later clean-up session.

I use it on one of the most notoriously 'leading' things that there is - the 'floating chamber' found in the Colt Conversion Unit - and it works great.

Get yourself one of the 'Lewis Lead Removers' if you're going to be shooting shorter cases and soft lead - it can pay for itself.

And - get some oversized bore brushes as well - maybe a couple of the used M16 Chamber Cleaning Brushes with the larger stainless steel 'base'.
They'll 'really' help with ease of maintenance - just remember to first slip the rod through the bore and then attach the brush in order to pull through.
They're a bit too 'thick' to push through...

A note about Hoppes #9 - it really 'is' a solvent.
It'll chemically strip Nickel if you place the plated part in a bath for too long (like overnight) - but it's just fine if you use it as intended and wipe things down afterwards.

Good luck.

Scouts Out!

[Bad Hand Dan]

Again I appreciate ALL input on this.

This helpful attitude seems to be hallmark of CAS. I feel so lucky to have found this sport. I can't wait until I'm knowledgable enough to help others.

I've got my cylinder in the Hoppes bath now and I'm going to run some patches through it.

I have a Lead Remover on order now. It had the brass patches, etc.

I'll buy some Break-Free as well.

I will need it as I expect go through 1000 rounds a week when I get to practicing more regularly. I'll shoot .38 special for $$ sake.

[Joyce (AnnieLee)]

It's been a few days, how did the Hoppe's soak work?

You might also look into getting a case gauge to check your ammunition. Midway carries them. You just stick the round into the gauge and if it fits, the ammo is fine. Not all ammo, even factory ammo is sized just right, so some rounds may be thicker than they should be.

There've also been some serious problems with badly sized ammo and toggle link rifles, where the pard gets ahead of his brain, tries to force the ammo into the chamber and gets the nasty "present" of an out of battery discharge. So getting into the habit of checking your ammo is a good thing to start.

Glad you are having fun with this,



AnnieLee

[Bad Hand Dan]

Well, I cleaned and cleaned and cleaned AND cleaned.

Dtrader gave me some tips which helped as well.

Then, I put some Federal .357 rounds in the gun and they seated fine. Yeeeehaaawww!

Thanks to all who wrote to help me.

God Bless y'all!

Bad Hand

[Delmonico]

0000 (four aught) steel wool is a lead bullet shooters friend for removing lead in chambers, forcing cones and barrels in any lead bullet fire arm.  It will not harm anything and can be used in many ways.  Us lead bullet shooters were using it long before CAS was thought up.  I belive it dates back at least as far as Harry Pope and others of the glory days of cast bullet shooting.

[Lt Henry C. Nave]

Try Ed's Red.  Home made recipe.  Get it off the web.  Greatest stuff since SA sixguns.

[hawk167]

I might be tempted to spend a little time at the re-loadin' bench to work up a target load for the
.357  That-a-way you can continue to shoot the full house brass and not worry about it.

With winter comin' on.............'tis the season.