reloading 56 56 question

[Cav Trooper old account]

I have the Rapine 375 mold and presently rtv glue the bullets into the case. I also have the C4D reloading dies and did not have good luck trying to crimp the cases, thus rtv. I don't compress the powder, and have basically made a powder scoup out of a ruined case and soldered a wire handle on to use it scoup up the volume I need.

I put in what ever the volume is, haven't measured it but it's slightly less than 30gr. and apply rtv to the bullet and twist it into the case so that any air doesn't push the bullet back out and cock it. I then dip the cured glue bullets in 50/50 bees wax, crisco. I know this is probably not the best way to lube and I'm open to suggestions from those who do get fair results with crimp, glue, lube. I have had off and on results with the accuracy of the old girl, I've gotten 10/12" at 100 yds and I've gotten really bad results ie; can't hit the broad side of a barn.

I'm still learning and sometimes it's just fun to through a lot of smoke in the air and watch all of the smokeless guys come over to see what the he** is going on. I've just graduated to a 45 70 Trapdoor and with all that is written about reloading it and it's accuracy, I thought I must be doing lots of things wrong and would like to get the Spencer at least close enough to the black to make it flinch.

With all of the lube from dipping the bullet, I can clean the bore in 4 swabs using a homemade cleaner of equal amounts of Murphy's Oil Soap, Alcohol and Hydrogen Peroxide. I then run dry patches and oil. Just don't let it get on the stock as it will take the finish off. I don't know where I got the recipe for the cleaner but it works. I completely strip the rifle when I get home an clean the action and lube just to be sure.
Thanks,

Cav Trooper

[Trailrider]

Pard, this probably isn't going to be much help to you for reasons that will become obvious...but FWIW...

[NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ACCIDENTS OR INCIDENTS RESULTING FROM THE USE OF THE FOLLOWING IN ANY GUN, INCLUDING MY OWN!]

If you are getting 10-12" at 100 yds, you aren't doing bad at all! Between the lousy sights (and maybe eyeballs, as well) and the fact that the Spencer was the CW version of an assault rifle (compared with the standard infantry musket), 4-5" at 50 yds is about the best one can expect.  I gave up on heel bullets altogether, and even with several different Rapine moulds Ray was kind enough to make up for me back in the '80's (the 1980's   ), I wound up using the Lyman 533476AX HB mould. You might be able to find one somewhere...maybe on e-bay???  In spite of the designation, using Lyman #2 metal equivalent, the bullet would cast about .338-.345" in diameter, sized to .340".  I lube them with good ol' Lyman 50-50 alox/beeswax.  My cases were Dixie or the old Buffalo Arms .50-70 cases, which I cut off, had a reamer made to give .002-.003" interference (i.e., smaller than the bullet diameter) to the depth of seating. I annealed the cases half-way down the length of the trimmed brass, using a water-filled pot sitting on a lazy susan and heated with a propane torch.  Lot of work, but worth it.  One reason the bullet diameter works is that virutally all the M1860 carbines I've checked have a tapered bore!  Mine measured .545 just ahead of the chamber, and .535" at the muzzle.

I think I tried Pyrodex RS, but finally settled on... 8.0 gr. Unique  , which gives the 411 gr. bullet about 980 ft/sec, or about the same as a 250 gr. .45 LC bullet with the same load.  NOT recommending this in an original...which this carbine IS...but, just saying. I do roll crimp the mouth over the forward driving band.

In your case, I'd see if you can compress the BP powder charge just a bit. You might get better consistancy. You might be able to turn a bullet canneluring tool in to a roll crimper by altering the profile of the roller.  I don't shoot the carbine much anymore, simply out of respect for the 150  year old metal in the receiver.  RIDE CAREFUL, PARD!

[Cav Trooper old account]

Thanks for the reply and info. I don't shoot it much, just like to dust it off once in a while and let a little sunlight shine on her. Throw a little lead down range and upset the smokeless guys with a cloud that they can't see through. LOL. I will try compressing the powder, I just don't know how much, I'm assuming that I can add powder and compress a little until I get a level that the bullet will set on and be at the right height in the case? 35gr.? I use GOEX and have been using FFFG but I have FFG also. I use lr primers. Any thoughts about whether the extra lube on the bullet is detrimental? I do have a Rapine 520-350 mould that was recommended by C4D but I've not loaded with it since I'm not sure how to handle the hollow base as a far a seating the bullet, do I not compress the powder so that it forms into the hollow base? Lots of things to figure out with hollow base and how to lube and crimp or glue. I haven't had time to play with it and there aren't many people around ie; my home,  that I can bounce ideas off of. I do live fairly close to Freedom, Ind. and would like to get down there when they have a shoot to talk to some of the guys.

CT

[wolflobo76]

 Cav Trooper take a look at my recent posts dealing with my 56/56 load posts. I have made a makeshift handcrimper that I use when I reload using the Rapine and the Owsiak bullets.