New 1866 owner 'n I got questions..

[Desert Drifter]

Howdy Gents.

I recently bought a new in the box Uberti 1866 carbine in .38 special.  The store is an authorized Uberti dealer and I think the owner wrote the date of 10/2010 on the box so I think this carbine was made in 2009 or 2010.  It has a "W" prefix in the serial number.

I've got a couple of questions:

1)  Has Uberti fixed the loading gate problem on the 1866's?  If they haven't I'll find a replacement real quick.

2)  I bought 6 boxes of WW 158 grain RFP cowboy loads that have an OAL of 1.4375 inches.  They look shorter than a normal 158 gr SP.  What I've read in the last couple of days is that the 1866 has a critcal "sweet length" for OAL.  Anyone know what the minimum length one should NOT reload at is.  I'm more concerned about minimum length than the maximum length.

3)  I'll be reloading soon and from what I've read on this forum I'll start with Moulton Lead 147 gr TC bullets loaded to about 1.55 inches.  In your experiences, what is the ideal length for the .38 special for reliable feeding in the 1866?

Any help getting me smartened up on this will be very appreciated.

Thanks

'drif

[Abilene]

'drif,
Check out this article by Pettifogger: http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/togglelink.pdf and it will answer all your questions about what lengths a toggle link will digest, with pictures and everything 

Your rifle will probably digest that Winchester ammo fine.  Longer ammo can feed somewhat smoother, and 1.55" should feed fine as well.  Most bullets crimped in their crimp groove will feed okay unless it is a really short bullet.

Enjoy your yellowboy.

Abilene

[Desert Drifter]

Abilene thanks, that article explains alot.   A perfect example of a picture is worth a 1000 words, in this case maybe 10,000.

Still looking for an answer to my question #1.  Do recent recent manufactured Uberti 1866's still have loading gate problems?

Thanks again

'drif

[Abilene]

Oh yeah, the loading gate.  Uberti supposedly beefed it up somewhat.  The design looks the same, so maybe the metal is slightly thicker?  I dunno.  I asked the repair guy at Cimarron and was told that there haven't been many returns lately for broken tabs.  But like I said, they didn't change the design and it still has that bent tab, so re-inforcing it and/or buying a heavy duty one might be expedient.

By the way, the "W" prefix in the serial number goes back a good ways, about 2004.

Abilene

[Desert Drifter]

Thanks Abilene, I've just heard and read about the problem.....haven't seen it first hand.   I sorta figured the loading gate on the 1866 was like a loading gate on a 1894 Marlin being sping steel and springy.  I know what happens when spring steel hasn't been drawn or tempered enough...  It becomes brittle and breaks.  They might have fixed the problem by just adding a few degrees of heat or color to their heat treatment.

Thanks again for all your help and direction, much appreciated pard.

'drif

[Pettifogger]

All bent tab 66 loading gates are weak and need to be beefed up.  On top is an OLD 66 gate with a solid steel tab.  In the middle is a bent tab model with the finger broken off.  On the bottom is a bent tab that has had a piece of steel installed to strengthen it.  (You can see the little tab to the left of the new piece.)  NO OEM or replacement bent tab gate is worth shucks without being beefed up.  Some people can go many rounds, others break almost immediately.  I put in a new super replacement gate and it broke after about 50 rounds and basically cost me the match at EOT several years ago.  Bottom line is if you want reliability, you need to beef up the gate regardless of who made it.  You can beef up the gate in your new 66.  Just fashion a piece of steel like shown in the photo and use quality solder like Hi-Force 44 to attach it.  Some people also use a glob of JB Weld.  Actually works pretty well if you thoroughly degrease the gate and rough up the surface where the JB will go a little.  After it has dried you can file it to shape.

[Desert Drifter]

@Pettifogger

Thank you sir for posting the pictures and the information on beefing up the loading gate.  I frequently do my own maintenance on percussion revolvers and other firearms.  I have the proper tools.  The first time I need to disassemble the '66 I'll make the mod on the gate.  Should be a quick solution to a potential embarassment.  Your information is very appreciated.

'drif