Stop me if my logic is flawed and frustration awaits me.

[Mule Ear Mortensen]

So I have a pair of Pietta Brass frame 5.5" NMA and they are great looking!
But here's the deal I have a similar pair of steel 8" NMA (also Pietta) that I want to get conversion cylinders for and it occurred to me I would prefer to have shorter barrels for shooting at CAS matches.

Could it be so simple that if I swap barrels and loading rammers then I could have my ideal set up with out buying new revolvers? If so it seems more straight forward then cutting the barrel, recrowning them and attaching a new front site.

Would the the tolerances be such that the barrel cylinder gap would still be in the recommended range or is this all just folly.

Am I the first one with this crazy idea (seems unlikely) or are there souls out there that have lived to tell the tale? If so please advise.

Sincerely,

Mule Ear Mo

[Pettifogger]

Depends on what tools you have available.  Either swapping barrels or cutting them isn't that much of a job.  Cylinder gap is something you have to check whenever you swap barrels or cylinders.

[Mule Ear Mortensen]

Yeah, no real tools to speak of. Maybe a bench vise and the type of wrenches and screwdrivers used on an automoblie.

By the way, I've read your articles about slicking up repro colts and  am inspired. Someday I'll (soon hopefully) try the coil hand spring mod.

Thanks for distributing that useful information!

[Slowhand Bob]

Little doubt I will ever own 'my perfect pair' which Pietta(?) did make at one time.  These were stainless with a 5 1/2" barrel and also included checkered grips.  This was as close as I have seen offered by a factory to the perfect SASS match '58s, though I have seen some home brewed Birds Head grips on here that I would love to try!  As I understand it, the front sights and latch catch might not wind up in the right place after your barrel swap as well as the barrel gap issue.  I think I would try and get some ideas on whether it might be easier to just cut the longer barrels to get the guns you want.  If you need to higher out lathe and/or mill work it would probably behoove you to sell out and fund a new set with the proceeds, that was the route I chose in the end.

[Wolfgang]

I did a barrel swap on one of my Pietta '58s.

http://www.drburkholter.com/cf19.html

I clamped the barrel in a bench vise padded with old belt leather.  Protected the square part of the frame with a piece of thin cardboard bent of the top of it.  Used a BIG cresent wrench to turn the frame.  Worked fine. 

[Mule Ear Mortensen]

Ok, I almost have the nerve worked up to try this operation. Gulp!

Thanks everyone. I'll try to keep you posted.

[drjldavis]

I guess I am confused as well?   Isn't the .44cal cylinder in the 5.5" barrel Remington the same as in the 8" barrel?  Why do you need to change barrels?  It seems a conversion cylinder would fit either one.

[Mule Ear Mortensen]

"So I have a pair of Pietta Brass frame 5.5" NMA and they are great looking!
But here's the deal I have a similar pair of steel 8" NMA (also Pietta) that I want to get conversion cylinders for and it occurred to me I would prefer to have shorter barrels for shooting at CAS matches."

The issue is that I want conversion cylinders paired with short barrels. The long barrels are on my steel framed NMA"s. The conversions cylinders are not recommended for brass frame revolvers. I'm changing barrels instead of cutting the barrels on the steel framed (conversion compatible) weapons.

[Wolfgang]

I guess I am confused as well?   Isn't the .44cal cylinder in the 5.5" barrel Remington the same as in the 8" barrel?  Why do you need to change barrels?  It seems a conversion cylinder would fit either one.

His 5.5" barreled pistols are brass framed.  No good to use the conversion cylinders in the brass framed pistols.  The brass frame is not strong enough for the higher pressures that can be generated by cartridges as opposed to cap & ball loads.  

ps.  the photo in my post above of my long barreled brass '58 does have a conversion cylinder in it.  However that cylinder is only for the use of blank cartridges in reenactment shows.  Blanks cartridges generate lower pressure then either cartridges with bullets or cap & ball charges as there is not weight in front of the powder to hold back the pressure.

[pony express]

Shouldn't be too hard to swap the barrells, IF they use the same ones for both brass and steel at the factory, same diameter and threads. I changed the barrell in an 1892 colt I have by making some wood blockswith a groove to hold the barrell(clamped 2 boards together, drilled a hole down the middle slightly smaller than the barrell.) Clamped the barrell between the blocks in a vise, wrapped some leather around the frame and used a pipe wrench.You have to use the wrench and leather on the frame right at the front where the threads are, or you could damage it. Not at the back, or across the cylinder window. Probably would be easier on the Remington, since it has so many flat surfaces, compared to the DA Colt.

[Mule Ear Mortensen]

Ok, I'm ready to pass the point of no return on this barrel swap project. Well, that is once I know how to remove the base pin from the 5 & 1/2" barreled ones. It looks like the stud that holds the rammer lever up, on the bottom of the barrel, is threaded and can be twisted out... does that sound right?

If this goes well I'll post some pic"s.

If not I'll deny everthing and destroy all the evidence.   

Oh yeah, in case it matters these NMA's are all of the Pietta variety manufactured in the last 3 years or so.

Thanks in advance,

Mule Ear Mo

[Hoof Hearted]

MEM
That rammer catch is soldered in place do not attempt to remove it or you'll be pretty upset with the outcome.

Once you twist the barrels a bit (RH threaded) the cylinder pin will slide right past it.

Regards, HH

Ok, I'm ready to pass the point of no return on this barrel swap project. Well, that is once I know how to remove the base pin from the 5 & 1/2" barreled ones. It looks like the stud that holds the rammer lever up, on the bottom of the barrel, is threaded and can be twisted out... does that sound right?

If this goes well I'll post some pic"s.

If not I'll deny everthing and destroy all the evidence.   

Oh yeah, in case it matters these NMA's are all of the Pietta variety manufactured in the last 3 years or so.

Thanks in advance,

Mule Ear Mo