Help with Kirst .45 Colt Conversion

Started by PJ Hardtack, October 17, 2011, 01:48:05 PM

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PJ Hardtack

As part of a trade, I recently I acquired a new Pietta .44 Remington cap & ball that came with a Kirst .45 Colt conversion cylinder/ejector rod system - pretty slick!   However, the .45 Colt cylinder is causing me some problems .......     

If you cycle the cylinder as per shooting, it functions fine. I like the indexing cut out on the cylinder for  lowering the hammer into the safety notch.  But - when it comes to unloading after a 5 shot string, and you put the hammer on the first cock as per loading, the cylinder doesn't rotate; you have to bring it to full cock, lower the hammer back into the safety notch and carry on unloading.   

Another way of describing the problem is: bringing the hammer to the first notch and rotating the cylinder, when the position with the indexing cut comes up, the cylinder will not rotate past that position.

Is this system supposed to operate in this fashion? Or do I have an indexing notch problem? My ignorance is showing ...... ;>(
"I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted, I won't be laid a hand on.
I don't do these things to others and I require the same from them."  John Wayne

PJ Hardtack

WM 1

This gun has yet to be fired with the cap & ball cylinder. It's squeeky clean (but lubricated) inside.
"I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted, I won't be laid a hand on.
I don't do these things to others and I require the same from them."  John Wayne

Raven

P.J.

It sounds like you have a timing issue. I think you will find the bolt is dropping early
As you cock the hammer the bolt is dropping at the same time as you reach the loading notch......this is a common problem.
You will need to either stretch the leg of the bolt or replace it. I would start by trying to stretch the leg first.
use some sort of steel bar between the legs and then pean the tip with a hammer.

FIRST THING is to make sure that your trouble shooting is correct.

If you have any questions call me 254-248-0663
Raven AKA Jay Strite
Kirst Konverter LLC

PJ Hardtack

Thanks Raven!

First thing I've learned over the years is not to exceed my known gunsmithing skills, which are low to non-existent. Parts replacement I can handle (sometimes), but I'm not very adept at times when it comes to trouble shooting or the type of work you suggest.
I recently replaced the locking bolt of a Taylor's conversion as it was popping up too soon on the first cock, but I suspect that isn't the problem here. I put the cap & ball cylinder in the gun and it functions perfectly.

I'm the 2nd owner of the gun. The previous owner warned me that I might experience some lead shaving with one chamber of the .45 Colt cylinder. He was right, and I was glad I was wearing shooting glasses.

Looking at the cylinder ratchet, there is a very bright spot on one of the cogs, indicating ..... ?

I'd just as soon someone who knew what he was doing had a look at it. Where do I send it?
"I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted, I won't be laid a hand on.
I don't do these things to others and I require the same from them."  John Wayne

Raven


PJ Hardtack

Jay

Following our phone conversation, I hit the pin in the loading gate with a steel punch and that tightened it up. But - the indexing problem in the 'unloading' mode continued .....

Being the bright lad that I am, I used a felt tip pen to blacken the cylinder ratchet teeth and cycled the gun, bringing the hammer to full cock a number of times and then indexing with the hammer on the first cock - still wouldn't rotate past that one position. I discovered that by pulling back on the hammer just a horse hair (a black one), I could rotate the cylinder. I did this a number of times to really mark the problem spot - Bingo!

Remember that "bright spot" I mentioned on the cylinder ratchet? That was it; a slight burr. It's so slight that I am reluctant to remove it with a Dremel tool for fear of over doing it. I feel that if I work it some more, I'll wear the high spot to the point where it will cease to be a problem.
The hammer being of a harder material (presumably), it will prevail.

Kind of a Bubba solution, but lacking the gunsmithing tools and skill to do otherwise, I'll live with it.
"I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted, I won't be laid a hand on.
I don't do these things to others and I require the same from them."  John Wayne

Raven

Hey PJ

Good talking with you today!

Use a stone to remove the burr.....a sharpening stone will work.

Jay

PJ Hardtack

Well, my 'Bubba' gunsmithing worked!

The burr was in a place it would have been impossible to reach (inside the ratchet notch) with anything other than a fine tipped diamond grit Dremel bit. My past experience with a Dremel (even a variable speed model) is that it's so easy to remove too much metal.
So, I lightly greased it and basically worried the cylinder back and forth to wear down the high spot. Took the gun to the range today to prove it and didn't have a bobble with it.

BTW - the gun is showing a preference for 230 gr RN .45 ACP bullets over 6 grs Red Dot. Doesn't do all that badly with 250 gr RNFPs over 6 grs Red Dot or 6.2 Tite group either.
"I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted, I won't be laid a hand on.
I don't do these things to others and I require the same from them."  John Wayne

Coffinmaker

PJ,

Now that you have it working, just for fun, try some Cowboy .45 Special cases with 160Gr RNFP bullets over 3.8 Gr Tightgroup. ;D

Coffinmaker


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