"Kliks" heard from revolvers.

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Howdy, all!

I have numerous Old West styled revolvers.  Most of us know about our Colt's ability to "talk" to us by virtue of "spelling" their name out as the hammer is pulled back.  C.O.L.T.  It's interesting.

Now, the Cap'n'Ball Colt firearms are a different animal, and except for my buddy Paladin U.K (Puk) who has a 4 "klik-er."  This was discussed in another post here.

I have an older American Western Arms (AWA) replica of 2nd Generation Colt's 1873 model called the "Longhorn."  It was a bargain back in 2000 when I bought it (new) and has been VERY faithful and posed zero problems.  It came with a slightly blemished cylinder where the part wasn't 100% buffed before bluing.  It has a very hard-to-see-in-the-light patch which is about 3/8" and which after firing a cylinder full of either BP or smokeyless cartridges the blemish totally disappears under the slight fouling.  (Nat'cherly, the more I fire - the more residue, but my point is that only a BIT of residue hides the blemish totally.)  There is also a tiny issue with the color-case on the frame.  I called when it was new and the folks at AWA (then) said they'd happily fix/polish the blemish and re-blue the cylinder, but I'd have to ship it back to them and it'd be gone for quite a while.  They mentioned that they couldn't "fix" the color-case issue because the process used a chemical (arsenic, I think, but maybe the memory is off ...) that can't be used here in the USA.  I decided to simply "live with" these VERY minor issues.  Hey - it was a bargain at $319 back then, so I wasn't too fussed about it.  That takes care of the ONLY issues I've had from this fine piece.

Sorry about the long explanation of what isn't even the issue I'm asking about!   

Any-hooo, this gun, when cocked has FIVE "kliks."  I've been inside the gun MANY, MANY times and I see no problems; I've done NOTHING to "fix" this tiny issue.  I'm a firm believer of the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" school of gunsmithing and other technical activities.) 

Any ideas?  Like i said, I ain't gonna do anything to it, I'm just curious.  Thanks ahead of time for any answers or comments you care to share.

Jeff  "Steel Horse Bailey"

[Coffinmaker]

Safety Cock notch, Bolt rises into the leeds, bolt rises into the locking slot, Half cock, full cock.

Coffinmaker

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Safety Cock notch, Bolt rises into the leeds, bolt rises into the locking slot, Half cock, full cock.

Coffinmaker

That'd be 5, Coffinmaker - thanks.  Which klik isn't the normal one heard?  #2 - rises to the leads (or leeds) ?  Or, #3?  I'm trying to figure out WHICH one shouldn't be heard ... or am I out of my head puzzling over this?

Like I mentioned, I won't fix it - unless you can see a problem in the future because of the extra klik.  Or is it really NOT extra and is SUPPOSED to make 5 kliks -  C-O-L-T-'S?
(1-2-3-4-5)

Inquiring mind wants to know. 

(Yes, I DO have a lot of time on my hands, but not TOO much!)

                                 

[Abilene]

The clicks Coffinmaker listed are not in order, so that could confuse you.

Some of my Colt's have 5 clicks if cocked very slowly, maybe yours is the same.  Here they are:

1. Safety Notch.  You will see the trigger move forward.
2. Half Cock.   Before this point the bolt lowers into the frame.  At the click the trigger moves again.
3. Bolt pops up into the leed or ramp.
4. Hammer reaches full cock and trigger moves forward again..
5. Bolt pops up higher as it reaches the end of the leed and pops into the notch.

Click 5 happens very close after  click 4.  Ideally they should happen at the same time so you only hear one click there, but if you cock the hammer very slowly they can be heard separately.

[Steel Horse Bailey]

The clicks Coffinmaker listed are not in order, so that could confuse you.

Some of my Colt's have 5 clicks if cocked very slowly, maybe yours is the same.  Here they are:

1. Safety Notch.  You will see the trigger move forward.
2. Half Cock.   Before this point the bolt lowers into the frame.  At the click the trigger moves again.
3. Bolt pops up into the leed or ramp.
4. Hammer reaches full cock and trigger moves forward again..
5. Bolt pops up higher as it reaches the end of the leed and pops into the notch.

Click 5 happens very close after  click 4.  Ideally they should happen at the same time so you only hear one click there, but if you cock the hammer very slowly they can be heard separately.

Abilene, I believe you hit the nail on the head!  Thanks!  I was only curious, but now I know that - as I have suspected since I first noticed this happening, that nothing is wrong and I have no worries.

I think I mentioned that I've had it for many moons and I've put thousands (at LEAST 11,000 to 12,000) of rounds 'thru it; ALL full power; several thousand were smokeyless reloads or factory rounds, and the remaining rounds were BP.

As you probably know, I'm trying to learn as much as possible so that I may venture into a school-trained and/or licensed 'smith.  I've pretty much decided to concentrate on Old West types plus the 1911 & A1 and AR15/M16/M4 types I'm already familiar with, both from my hobby and professionally from my Army Armorer days.

Thanks again!

[maldito gringo]

I have no experience with AWA revolvers, But with the SAA if you are hearing the bolt drop into the locking slot appreciably AFTER the hammer reaches full cock, the gun is out of time. This may not cause a problem on fast cycling as the momentum of the cylinder will carry it into lockup. However,on slow cocking, the cylinder may fail to carry up. Ideally the hammer will reach full cock just as the bolt is dropping into the locking notch, the two sounds almost merging into one on rapid cycling Click, Click, CA-Click. SAA timing is checked by turning the revolver
upside down and placing your left thumb along the cylinder. With the left thumb exerting a very slight drag on the cylinder, slowly bring the hammer back and watch the bolt. It should "pick up" just after the hammer moves back from the carry notch, clearing the window just as the cylinder begins rotation, drop into the lead notch, and be just dropping into the locking notch as the hammer reaches full cock. Again, that's for the Colt SAA and I'm assuming here that your AWA replica times up likewise. 

[Henry4440]

[Coffinmaker]

SHB,

As long as the gun cycles as it's suppose to, you don't have a "real problem."  The only issue I'd address with a "5 clicker" is cylinder lock-up.  Cylinder rotation should stop just as the bolt rises into the cylinder slot.  Normally, the culprit is a short trigger snapping past the fill cock ledge a little early.  Also not a "real problem" so long as the gun locks up as it should.  It doesn't sound from your description to be anything I'd get real excited about.

Coffinmaker

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Thanks, y'all!

[Popa Kapoff]

My 1875s have three klicks
1. Rem
2. Ing
3. Ton
 

[Steel Horse Bailey]

My 1875s have three klicks
1. Rem
2. Ing
3. Ton
 

Mine too, Popa!

Good one!