Couple of Questions from another Newbie - first belt - punches and lettering

[Long Juan]

I am in the process of making my first gun belt - ranger - for my grandson.  I am assuming that anyone wanting to cut the ends well uses one or more end punches.  I am using Ghormley's pattern.  On that pattern, it looks like I would need a round end punch and maybe an English point punch for the ends of the billet and one end of the chape.  The chape and billet are 1 1/2".  Am I correct that I would need the 1 1/2' punches?  How about when rounding the corners of the main belt strap, which is 2 1/2"?  Should I get a 1/2" round end or just use a washer or coin or something like that as a template?  Any tips in general?

Second set of questions.  We are not doing cartridge loops.  It will be a "black powder" belt.  He wants his alias across the back of the belt.  I have used smaller lettering on some other projects and have a difficult time keeping them lined up.  It has not mattered on the other projects, but this one will be in plain view, inviting others to look at it and read it.  I haved watched the Tandy video showing that the first letter gets stamped, then you index that stamp and go to the next lining up the blocks to ensuire they are square to each other.  With the smaller letters, that did not work particularly well.  I am using 1" letters this time.  Is there a system I should be trying to use to keep them going straight and lined up?  The belt will be dyed (saddle tan?), but I still do not want to scribe a line unless there is some trick that allows doing that without having it show up on the finished belt.  Have another question, but am out of space, so will save for another post.  Thanks

[Boothill Bob]

I cut the cape and billet by hand, some times I use a wingdivinder to get the roundness. But most of the times I make the cape and billet in stiff paper so I can draw it on the leather, then I have a pattern who will last for a very long time.
On your outher question I should've use a steel ruler as a guide, maby you can clamp it or something so it doesent move.
I dont use the letter stamp any more, I use tamplate letters and cut them with my svivel knife. But the stamps are good compliment.
//BhB

[TN Mongo]

Chuck Burrows used a red Pilot rolling ball pen to mark his leather on his DVDs because it disappears when it's dyed.  I started doing that a year ago and it works great.  I draw a line when I do letter stamps.  I also use a press because it gives you a much better impression.  Once the first letter is done, I leave the stamp in the impression and then use it and the red line to position the next letter.  I never liked the results I got using a mallet; the stamp alsmost always moved.  A press works so much better.

There are a limited variety of letter stamps sizes and designs.  I think you can do much more the way B. Bob does his.

[rickk]

Long Juan,

If you get a 1 - 1/2 " punch to use on 1 - 1/2" leather, you do run the risk of the punch being ever so slightly smaller than the leather and there will be funny little corners where the curve becomes straight.

If you get a 1 - 3/4 inch or even 2" punch the issue goes away. There is a fair amount of latitude when using a bigger punch.

Rick

[Slowhand Bob]

Most of the belt end punches I have used do actually overlap the stated size by a tiny amount EXCEPT for the so called half round strap end versions.  If laid out with a template, the English points actually be cut very easily with a knife but the rounf ends take a bit more care but it makes for good cutting practice.   For what it is worth, on punches, I prefer the blades welded on at two spots more than the one piece forged punches, which often overcut/undercut the ends.  I want the punch handle to be centered over the blade rather than applying its pressure on one end when struck.

If your eyes are good enough to see a really light pencil line you can always erase it with a soft pink eraser after stamping and the leather dries.  I always work my letters out from the center towards the ends.  Even though I am somewhat press poor I do prefer doing most one off stamping jobs with an appropriately heavy maul.  If you find yourself really needing to fram away or the even more evil double fram technique, its time for a heavier maul and a more controlled impact, let the weight do the work.

[Long Juan]

Here also, I appreciate the tips.  Good stuff!  I am learning, but have a long way to go.  On this first belt project, I cut the billet/chape tips by hand and they are "okay."  Will have to investigate how a "press" instead of mallet works for the lettering.  Fortunately, my grandson is thrilled so far and has no problem with the mistakes I've made that make the belt less than perfect.  He is anxious for me/us to finish so he can wear it shooting our next match.  I say us because he has been doing some of the work and seems to enjoy it.  Maybe he will get started in leather work before he is closer to 70 than 60, as I am. 

[Slowhand Bob]

Before spending the big money on the smaller hobby sized presses sold by some of the leather suppliers you might want to look into a larger arbor press or even a hydraulic version.  Sometimes with a bit of 'handy work' on your part these actually make up into pretty decent low cost professional tools for the small shop.  One thing I have done with a small bench top hydraulic press was to press in a complete line of letters, like you are talking about and the job turned out really nice BUT.  Unless you create a jig to speed things up it will be quicker to rely on the big maul, as mentioned earlier.  A three ton arbor press will handle the larger embossing plates, up to palm size, in damp leather real well.  For the poor man approach one could do some jobs on a really big bench vise as long as alignment can be maintained.

All skills require a learning process and it will come, IF you do not become discouraged and quit.  Go slow and ask questions before submitting ideas to leather or making big purchases.  I would be in the Caribbean, surrounded by pretty lasses, if I had all the money I wasted on bad leather and poor or gimmick tools over the last fifty years.  The most important advice of all, no matter what these other guys try to tell you, stay away from the head knives, for Satan abides in them!     

[TN Mongo]

Slowhand is correct.  I got a good arbor press from www.use-enco.com for a great price.  You can use sand paper to even up hand cut belt tips and I assume you know about edging tools.

[Boothill Bob]

I made my own press, spend $ 15 on it and it works great