Rivets for saddle pockets

Skeeter Lewis · March 10, 2011, 10:26:51 AM

What size of rivet would be period-correct for saddle pockets, pards?

ChuckBurrows · March 10, 2011, 01:35:50 PM

The government called for size 14 and that was commonly used on non-military gear as weel, but I've had some problems with #14's bending too easily when setting so have settled on size 13 or 12, both of which also are PC for civilian harness goods - all sizes are available from Campbell-Bosworth.
I usually buy 1" length an cut down to whatever length I need. IMO settle on one size and buy the 3 piece setter from Bob Douglas, not cheap but the BEST setter I've ever used and if you're going to use them much well worth the money.

Skeeter Lewis · March 10, 2011, 03:37:55 PM

Thanks, Chuck. I use #14s for holsters and belts. I wondered if larger ones were used on saddle bags and pockets. If #12s are PC, I'll go with those...

Cliff Fendley · March 10, 2011, 04:10:55 PM

I use almost exclusively #14 unless it's a big item. I have a set of Meanea saddle bags that have #14 rivets on the end of the stitching of the main pouch and appear to be a #12 on the straps.

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter · March 10, 2011, 06:51:55 PM

I like the # 12, I've had too many #14 stems bend on me, and then the hazel of getting them out and starting over, the #12 have consistently worked better for me, IMHO... and I only use the Bob Douglas setter now, there is none finer, as Chuck said.

Cliff Fendley · March 10, 2011, 07:28:13 PM

I get the #14 ones from weaver and haven't had any trouble and love then since I made my own setters. I finally took the time to make some after I was convinced you can't buy a setter for the #14 that works.

Skeeter Lewis · March 11, 2011, 03:23:56 AM

Thanks, pards. I have a set of Bob Douglas's tools for the #14s. I found a technique to stop the shanks bending on those little buggers. I turn the leather project through 180* between every blow of the hammer. That means that the shank isn't always forced one way. Also I cut the shank pretty low to keep the hammering to a minimum.
Cliff, thanks for that info on the Meanea saddle bags. That's the way I'll do it.
Skeet

Cliff Fendley · March 11, 2011, 07:08:35 AM

I don't spin the project but I try and keep the setter straight and hit it a bunch of fast firm taps but not too hard. Sounds about like one of those big red headed woodpeckers tearing up a stump.

I set the anvil with about three good licks and on a #14 cut the shank off as close as my side cutters will cut it. Than I hit it ten times spinning the setter in my fingers as I go. Then evaluate that it's going ok and hit it another ten. That usually gets it like I want it. I do it on a flat anvil and by wetting the back side lightly it will generally draw both sides into the leather so they are countersunk and tight.

I don't pound the shank flat but leave it rounded from the setter which is how the professional period pieces I've seen look. I would assume they had setters in those days too. My Meanea saddle bags have nice rounded rivets except for one rivet that has obviously been replaced, that rivet appears to have been pounded with a hammer. Some of the unknown maker pieces I've seen look like that as well.