Rejuvenating dried-out buttstock?

[DJ]

I recently acquired a Spencer rifle.  These are notorious for wood cracking around the magazine tube that runs through the wood from the butt to the receiver.  Mine has developed some very tight cracks about an inch long, starting at the buttplate.  I would like to preserve the wood in its present condition as much as possible.  However, I don't want to use some kind of preservative that would prevent glue from sticking should the cracks get worse and need to be repaired.

Any thoughts on what I can do to the wood to keep it from cracking further while preserving "glue-ability"?

Thanks in advance--

--DJ

[Professor Marvel]

Ah My Dear DJ

>These are notorious for wood cracking around the magazine tube that runs through
>the wood from the butt to the receiver.  Mine has developed some very tight cracks
>about an inch long, starting at the buttplate.  I would like to preserve the wood
>in its present condition as much as possible.  However, I don't want to use some
>kind of preservative that would prevent glue from sticking should the cracks get
>worse and need to be repaired.

If this is an original, please take it to a pro.

Whilst I have not had the pleasure of dealing with Spencer stock issues, it sounds similar to other stock "crack and check" problems I have seen.

Wood is in a constant state of movement both from temperatue and humidity. Temperature affects it to a lesser degree, and humidity to a great degree, unless the wood is completely sealed on all surfaces. Good Oil finishes can achieve this once they are polymerized (properly dried) but some will rely on modern "plastic" varnishes or epoxy-like finishes.

If the finish does not seal all surfaces, inside and out, expansion and contraction is inevitable from the swell and shrinking as the moisture content changes.

Thus it would appear that your primary problem stems from a lack of a good seal.

This has resulted in the problem you are relating,  the first small cracks. Since the wood has already cracked, those cracks will never go away. Your only option now ( IMO ) is to first "stabilize" the wood then "seal" the wood.


Stabilization is usually done by first sanding then using a thin absorbant glue that will penetrate the cracks, and glue the crack shut as it were, bridging the gap between the wood grain. These days many woodworkers use a thin slow set cyanoacrylate (superglue) or a very very thin epoxy in a warm environment on a warmed stock, hoping for good absorption into the cracking and checking that is both visible and unseen.

After stabilization, the stock should be resanded to a final finsh and the "well sealing" finish of choice applied, both inside and out. You will need to address the necessity of ensuring the fit of the metal parts thru-out this effort.

It is possible to only fill the cracks with superglue as related above and spot sand and spot refinish very carefully. However it is entirely likely that further cracking and checking may continue. As new cracks open up this exposes fresh wood so that the
"superglue" method may continue to work.

This, at least, has worked for me. :-)

This does not however adress expansion and contraction via temperature.

Wood, bone, ivory, critter teeth, stone, and leather are all organic stuff that have individual moisture and movement issues. It is important to remember to work "with" them, or one can expect eventual failure.

yhs
prof marvel

[GunClick Rick]

Ive used something called water putty to fill larger areas but it is hard to get it to match original color.It is like a fine powder sawdust with glue.Worked great on an old wooden saddle i have to fill seperation,i tried puuting stain in it but the petroleum keeps it from drying real hard.

[Coffinmaker]

Wood moves.  It expands and contracts with every change of season and with every change in atmospheric conditions.
Simple fact.  There is no "finish" you can apply that will stop wood movement.  Simple fact.  So it's something you have to deal with.  We only hope the wood products we use (gun stocks) have been properly cured to the point they reach equilibrium with the environment.
Now for the cracks.  Cyanoacrylate (superglue - crazy glue) doesn't do well over time with porous stuff (wood).  Pick up a couple of coffee stir sticks next time your in Starbucks.  Mix up some good epoxy and use the sticks to force the glue into the cracks, cleaning off any excess.  Let it harden, it's a chemical process, it doesn't "dry" and you should be done.  If the stock is really dry, it's going to stay really dry.  Oils or any other type of finish you apply will only effect the upper surface of the wood and effect it's appearance.  If you like the way it looks, leave it alone.  If you want a different look, the possible different finishes will actually take a book to explain.

Coffinmaker 

[wildman1]

If you use an epoxy, use one that takes 24 hours to cure, get it as close to the color of what you are putting it on.  After you apply it use a hair dryer, on low, until it starts soaking into the cracks in the wood.  If you do this the repair will last much longer as it will go deeper into the wood and the crack.