Now I have a stupid question on "cartridge loops" - advice??

[bedbugbilly]

O.K. - now as I'm a planning my cartridge belt out in my mind, I woke up last night wondering about the cartridge loops.  I'm going to make them out of a strip of about 4 oz leather and they'll be about 11/16" to fit in the 3/4" slot made by my slotting punch.  I'll run a edge crease on the up and down side of the loop on the "hair side".  Then I got to wondering - I'll dye the front "hair side" - BUT - do I leave the flesh side of the strip "un-dyed"??  (so the inside of the loop is "unfinished").  ALSO - do I leave the edges "as cut" by the strip cutter (square) or do I bevel them and then b urnish them?  I guess I'm wondering what works best over time as far as "holding" the cartridge in the loop?  I have an original cartridge belt from the very early 1900's and the cartridge loops (for 32-20 WCF cartridges) are left "as cut".  Both the inside and outside of the loop are dyed but I also have the flap holster that went with it and they both appear to have been "dip dyed".  The original belt and holster are roll embossed and I'm sure that it was a very cheap outfit - possibly out of Sears-Roebuck or similar.  My loops will be for 38 spl. and although I usually shoot rounds with a standard lead or FMJ bullet, I do use cheaper wadcutters once in a while for target practice and one cheap brand that I pick up doesn't have much of a slug extending beyond the end of the casing.  I figure that you fellows who shoot competition will have some advice on how you finish your cartridge loop edges and flesh side so that the cartridges go in and out easy but still are snug so you don't loose any of them.  Any suggestions?  Much appreciasted!  bedbug   

[Ned Buckshot]

This is just the way I do it and not particularly the prescribed way.

I cut my loop material of about the same thickness as you are planning and then edge them and burnish. I dye both sides but that is probably a matter of preferance more than necessity.Of course he also said measure twice cut once, it took me a while to learn that one!

[WaddWatsonEllis]

I am making up a shotgun cartridge belt to match my holster belt, and I have been going over whether to use leather or nylon/mixed webbing for the loops.

The leather is historically more correct , but:

Nylon will not 'grab' the shells when I try to pull them out. Leather will.

So I have been going nearly insane vacillating (obsessing really) about which to use ....

Thanks; you just made up my mind ..... there is no way in Hades that I am going to add any more burnishing to this project!!

LOL

[knucklehead]

I use 4 oz leather 7/8 wide and weave it through 3/4 bag punch slot.

I dont edge and burnish just leave edges as cut.

I do dye both sides as its easier cause i dip dye the loop leather. just pour some dye in a mason pint jar and just put about 2 inches of the leather. using fingers(wearing gloves of course) hold leather in the dye and pull the leather through the dye and hang on a hanger to dry.

[Dalton Masterson]

I dont edge or burnish them as such, but I do rub them down with skidmores when all is done, and smooth them with a bit of canvas. It makes a pretty smooth edge that way.
DM

[Flinch Morningwood]

I usually go with a strip just over the size of the hole...making them smaller leaves too much "play" in the loop.

[Cliff Fendley]

I run a #0 edger down the front and back sides to clean the sharp edge just slightly. I don't really burnish since it's kinda hard to do to a 3-4oz piece.

I dip dye and/or oil almost all of my work so yes they do get dyed on the inside and sometimes I will take a q-tip and run some up in them.

[Slowhand Bob]

Guys, if you desire to burnish the finer edges you can do a great job with a Dremel that has adj speed.  Buy the smallest wool buff that goes on the little screw shaft and load it up with wax by touching the wax cake very lightly until enough heat is produced to load the buff.  This will bring those 4-5oz edges to a beautiful finish BUT until you get used to it do allow for a bit of darkening.  In fact it might be best to dye small scap pieces and practice a bit as burning can occur also until you get the feel for the speed.  Keep the pressure very light, the motor sound should not seem labored.  My Dremel has a permanent spot on my bench and gets grabbed up to do many fast light duty chores.  Nothing beats the little 1/2" sanding sleeve for smoothing the recurve areas of a holster or ruffing the leather along the main seam for your glue line/filler.

I like 2-3oz for .22 (1/2"w), 4-5oz for SASS CF carts (3/4"w), 6-7oz for single SS (1"w) and 8-9oz for my newest double SS pouches, which are still experimental!

MERRY CHRISTMAS