Need input on holster construction & stitching techniques

[bedbugbilly]

I have made quite a few holsters but am trying to improve on my technique in regards to seams, stitching, etc.  Right now, I use a diamond awl to make my stitching holes.  I see some "drill" their stitching holes.  Can you advise as to how you do it - i.e. - do your drill the seam groove on one side of the holster "in the flat", glue your seam and then drill the other flap utilizing the already drilled holes?  What are you using to drill with - a standard twist bit or something different?  Do you use a drill press or a hand held drill such as a Dremel tool? 

Also - do you cut your stitching grooves while your leather is flat (which is the way I was taught but if you holster seams are off a little, the front and back grooves don't always line up), assemble the seam and then sand the profile to even the edges or do you assemble your seam with contact cement cement, sand the edge to even up the joint, cut your stitching groove and then drill your stitching holes?

I've seen holsters with a stitching groove on both the front and back (which is how I do it) and I have also seen some with a stitching groove only on the front (I'm guessing so that when the stitching hole is either "awled" or "drilled" there would be no visible mis-alignment with the back stitching groove).  I no longer use a stitching wheel - I step my stitching holes off with a pair of sharp dividers but I still use the traditional awl.  I would like to try drilled stitching holes as I think it may give a more professional look?  I saddle stitch with artificial sinew as I prefer it over heavy untreated/treated threads/cord.

I usually use 10 - 12 oz leather for unlined holsters and cut them out with heavy leather shears.  I've slipped too many times with the razor knife and I have a vision problem which sometimes causes problems as well - thus I use a heavy outline mark on the flesh side.  I use a Forstner bit in the drill press to cut the inside curves.  I use a drum sander in the drill press to sand the seam profile eges to even them up before easing the edges, dying the seam and then burnishing. I just bought a round knife but haven't tried it yet as far as cutting holsters out.  I'm wondering if any of you use one to cut holsters out and what your technique is - besides keeping your fingers out of the way!   

I know everyone has their own techniques/preferences - I'd love to hear how some of you do it and what seems to work best for  you.  Like anything else - there's more than one way to do any task and I'm always looking to see what I can do to improve my skills and techniques. Thanks for your input, info.  and help 

[Sgt. C.J. Sabre]

Here's what I do. First, I get the edges of the holster fairly close by sanding. Then I cut my stitching groove. Mark the holes with a five to the inch overstitch wheel. Glue the seam. Using a dremel tool and a 3/32" bit, drill the holes.
I use the 3/32" bit because it allows the needle to almost fall through the holes without pliers, except when double stitching.
Now the secret to keeping the edges lined up is to clamp the seam using those blued steel paper clamps. Use the clamps while sanding, gluing, drilling, and stitching. Use several of them, and remove and replace as needed to get to the seam.
This also works when adding a welt to the seam.
I don't think you need to use quite so heavy a leather for your holsters. 8-9oz. leather should be fine. I've used 8-9oz. for all my holsters, SAA, L Frame size DA, 1911, etc and never had a problem with them holding up under daily use. I even made a holster for a 6 and 1/2" Taurus Raging Bull with that size leather. 

[Dalton Masterson]

I use an awl myself.
I make sure that the front of the holster profile is exactly how I want it, then I cut my front stitch groove, and mark it with the wheel.
Then I glue the front to the back.
I try to make my backside just a bit proud when I glue the front to the back.
Then I take a sharp knife, and remove the excess from the back, followed by a sanding drum or wood rasp.
THEN, I run a second stitch groove on the BACK side, and do NOT use the stitch wheel.

Then the hardest part is getting the awl to come through the back side stitch groove.
Not that hard once you get the rythm going.
DM

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I do it the same way you do, Dalton. Sometimes I don't groove the back but the steps remain the same.

[Cliff Fendley]

On most holsters I do exactly like Dalton except I just sand the back side down even with the front on a belt grinder. Slow speed and a 60 grit belt that I use to profile the edge.

Many times on knife sheaths or a sewn toe holster I'll sand the edges and then mark the front and back because the pouch will lay flat but if it has a sewn toe plug (which most of my holsters do) I always mark the front and toe of the holster before assembly and sand the back to match the front.

On knife sheaths where there is a welt and depending on construction I sometimes will have as thick as 5 layers of 8-9 oz leather. On those I will many times use a drill press to punch a small hole so it's easier to run the awl through by hand when sewing. I don't use a drill but but rather a special little punch (AKA a finish nail) in the drill. I feel like it's best not to drill a hole with a bit and remove material but rather push the material back so it can close back around the thread tighter.

After stitching barely dampen and run an overstitch wheel over front and back to even things up and close the leather back around the thread.

[Slowhand Bob]

Im pretty close with Dalton and the Marshall, I am not good enuff with the Dremel to always come out where I want to and I actually prefer the way awl punched holes spring back in on the stitch.  Book mark the pattern real well while in the layout stage and main seam fitting will just be so much easier.  I sew most of my 'stuff' by hand now but for me Chuck Burrows video comes closest to the techniques I used for years.  As arthritis started to get the best of me I started using the diamond stitching punches, as sold by Tandy and they helped a lot.  I use three types of stitch groovers but my favorite one for main seams is an old Osborne compass style.  Tandy has come out with a new model that I plan to try in the near future, it is an edge layout groover that puts the cutter in line with the handle and moves the edge guide to the outboard side.  Ill do a report on it when I get one.  My evolution with the sewing machines has been slow, painful, expensive and still ongoing but I can pretty well stay within a bottom groove now so do use them almost always.  I kinda think the bottom groove adds several advantages, not the least of which is a slightly tighter stitch.

[ogreshooter]

First, I lay out the template I am going to use on 8-9 oz leather on the rough side of the leather. I use a few push pins to hold in place, 1 on each of the 4 main seam end points so I know where they are, then one or two on the apron about where I am going to cut through for the strap.

Next, I outline using a fine sharpie marker, making sure to mark centerline and any fold lines. Finish out the fold and centerline so they extend fully across my leather.

Next, Exacto knife is implemented. I trim "kinda" close until the material is fully cut out, then I trim even closer because it is easier to handle at this point. Next, Dremel and a sanding drum to catch any round sections so they are more clean. At this time I am all the way to the drawn line and the final size of the holster material. Clean up any and all edges as best I can for smooth lines. Then I run the edge beveler (not sure exactly what size, but fairly small), then the groover all the way around, followed by stitch wheel with the 7 holes per inch. Next, I break out the dremel again, using a small collet and a #55 (.0520") drill. I drill all the holes except the back of the main seam.

Next is the liner, lots goes into that, but I think I have covered a god portion of what you needed to know. I use two needles with black waxed nylon cord for stitching. The holes are gudentite, so I also need a pair of pliers. I line my holsters (all TWO of them) with 4-5 oz leather and Kydex. If you want me to go into that, I will be glad to. In the mean time, I think I have to head back to work...

[bedbugbilly]

A big "thank you" to you all for your kind responses and the great information!  In the long run, I think we all pretty much do it all the same . . . only different.     If that makes any sense?  I got a lot out of reading your responses and can see several things that I can try differently than the way I'm doing them now that will probably improve my techniques and the finished product quite a bit.

I have made quite a few holsters but never done a "lined" one.  My next project is to make a looped holster for my New Vaquero to see how the "fit" is and then will probably work on a lined holster for it after that.  Years ago, I bought a half a dozen pieces of really nice thin (probably 2 oz) leather that came out of the Cadillac factory - scraps from leather upholstery.  I really didn't know what I was going to do with them but I ran across them at a gun show and the price was cheap so I picked them up and threw them in my leather pile.  Each piece is big enough to do a holster and the color is "tannish" so I'll try a pice of that for the lining - smooth "hair side" against the revolver.  I'll try some of the things you all suggested and see if I can improve how I'm a doing things.

Many thanks again to all - greatly appreciated!   

[Slowhand Bob]

Be careful not to ever store your guns in leather of unknown tannage, some of this stuff can really attack the guns surface.  Sometimes prefinished leathers will also have surfaces that just do not want to glue well so it might be best to test a small piece first.

[Cliff Fendley]

I second what Bob said.

[bedbugbilly]

Thank you!  I'll rethink using that leather for lining and probably pick up some pigskin or simular at Tandy.  Appreciate your comments and advice!  Thanks again!  Sincerely, Bedbug   

[ChuckBurrows]

Check this out for stiching tips/methods that I've used now for 30+ years - it's prety much like what Dalton described but I pre-punch the holes in the face (and welt if used) before gluing to the back. That way you only have one thickness to run your awl through and the hole in teh front acts as a guide making it much easier to line up the holes in the back groove.

http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutorials/_leatherstitch.html

[Springfield Slim]

That's a great idea, Chuck. I don't do welts that often but I will try that, is very difficult to go through 3 layers of leather all at once.

[Cliff Fendley]

I do that on knife sheaths Slim, glue your welt to the front half and punch your holes then you only have to go through the back when sewing. Most of my holsters only have a partial welt at the top.