proper uniform wear?

[pony express]

I've been looking over the period photos in my very small military "library" and I'm a bit confused as to what is to be worn underneath the blue fatigue blouse. Some of the photos show what appears to be a white shirt with stand up collar(maybe a celluloid one?) showing, sometimes the white shirt cuffs show too. In others, nothing can be seen except the blouse itself, presumably with the blue wool shirt underneath. Some photos with the blose unbuttoned, will show the blue wool shirt, or sometimes white shirt with a civilian looking vest. Were there different official ways to "layer" the uniform, or are these mostly cases of non regulation use?

[Frenchie]

Pony, the only real expertise I have is the period circa 1858-1872, a bit before and after the War of the Rebellion. The normal, practical, expected, common garment worn under the fatigue blouse for that period is the issue wool shirt in gray, natural, or blue. Historical substitutes are home-made shirts in period materials and patterns, sutler- or store-bought shirts (ditto), something usable you "happened to find on your person while 'passing by' a civilian homestead" (this works especially well for those reenacting Sherman's march through Georgia ), or anything that your pay and/or circumstances might reasonably provide you.

Keep in mind, what you see in photographs of the period might well be a photographer's prop (paper collar, necktie, etc.). They were quite rare in the field, and I've long thought that vests are not really appropriate for enlisted men in the field as well. However, if you are a senior NCO who works at Division, Army or Corps HQ, in daily contact with senior officers, then I think making the effort to look "spiffy" would be perfectly appropriate. Just don't turn out looking prettier than the Commanding General - that's not a good career move.

[pony express]

Thanks, Frenchie. I knew that there was a lot of variation and substitution up untill the later 1880's By then things were becoming more standardized. what I wonder about, though, is in the civil war period, they used a cotton shirt. As I understand it, the shirt was considered underwear at that time, so cotton would make sense. The cotton "boiled shirt" could be more easily cleaned than a wool one. So was there a "summer" and "winter" rule? or was the proper uniform the wool shirt under the wool fatigue blouse, year round?

[liten]

ive been trying to hunt down that white shirt as well, ive seen them in cavalry images as late as the 1890s they must have been  a issue shirt at some stage, or could be private purchase, or civil war left overs

[pony express]

I looked in the uniform begulations posted on GAF site...I think it was 1898 ones...mentions issuing a white collar for certain occasions. I suppose it's a button on collar, but there's no mention of the shirt it would button to. I guess what I need is something that details what exactly should be worn with the different uniforms(dress, undress, fatigue). Plus, I expect some of it was left up to the local commanders, too.

[Pitspitr]

what I wonder about, though, is in the civil war period, they used a cotton shirt. As I understand it, the shirt was considered underwear at that time, so cotton would make sense. The cotton "boiled shirt" could be more easily cleaned than a wool one. So was there a "summer" and "winter" rule? or was the proper uniform the wool shirt under the wool fatigue blouse, year round?

The ISSUED shirt was wool, and yes it was considered to be "underwear" As for cotton making more sense, how do you mean? Wool under wool is cooler than cotton under wool. because it breathes easier and the evaporation of your sweat will cool you somewhat like a blanket covered canteen. You can wash wool but remember to buy your uniform big as it will shrink some if you wash it in water or not. (the water in your sweat will make it shrink) I'm speaking of the CW to about 1880 period.

[captmack]

The ISSUED shirt was wool, and yes it was considered to be "underwear" As for cotton making more sense, how do you mean? Wool under wool is cooler than cotton under wool. because it breathes easier and the evaporation of your sweat will cool you somewhat like a blanket covered canteen. You can wash wool but remember to buy your uniform big as it will shrink some if you wash it in water or not. (the water in your sweat will make it shrink) I'm speaking of the CW to about 1880 period.

Pitspitter is correct.  The M-1874 was gray wool and the M-1883 Was navy wool.

[liten]

 theres a white shirt as well ,  ive got a image of a co of cavalry out on patrol and at least 4 of them that i can see are wearing white shirts under there sack coats ,it has a fold down coller, dated 1887

[Pitspitr]

The ISSUED shirt was wool, ... I'm speaking of the CW to about 1880 period.

This isn't to say that individuals didn't purchase white cotton shirts nor that regulations didn't change later.