A couple questions for you guys please...

[Chuck 100 yd]

I have not used the rubber cement sold to temporarily hold your project while tooling thin leather.
Can it be removed after you no longer need it on the piece.
I understand it wont hurt if a lining is used to cover it up. but what if you want it left plain?

Also, I have been using DAP contact cement to glue holster seams and it is good stuff but does anyone know....
If I use the Dap to glue a holster lining in after the outer shell has been wet formed close to finish shape and dried.
If I then wet mold it to the six shooter will the water affect the glue job.
I guess I could (and will) just make a test run on some scrap.
Any of you guys do it that way?

Last Question... When sandwiching Kydex into a holster, what weight leathers do you use and what kind of glue to do the job.

Thanks for your help fellers!  

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

 Howdy Chuck

   The rubber cement can be removed when you're finished carving/tooling/stamping, and it won't hurt a thing.

   As for using Dap contact cement, I can't comment on that, I haven't used it, I use Tandy's Contact Cement, it has work well for me over the years.

   As for wet molding your gun to your holster, you don't want to do this until your finished putting your holster together, ( tooling/lining/cementing/sewing ) I cement my finish front piece of leather to the lining, and don't cut your lining to fit the pattern, you want an over size piece of lining to cement to, after tapping it down with a smooth headed hammer to get the air pockets out, you can then trim the lining off to match the front finished piece, you can do your inside sewing of the top of the bucket and the bottom of the holster now, along with any skirt that might be in your pattern, then cement your seam line and carefully line things up as you put them together, when together, go along the seam line and tap it down, I assume you would have already put your stitch groove in the front on the seam and used a used a stitch marking wheel to mark your stitching holes, if so you can go ahead and start your saddle stitch, after stitching go over your stitches with your stitching wheel to define your stitches, when done, you can now go ahead and wet mold the gun to the holster. All dyeing if done should be done after tooling and before sewing. One more thing, I like to use my bench top belt sander with a 220 grit paper to square up my edges, this will really help with matching up your stitch grooves on the front and back when done properly you want a 90 degrees on your edges this helps a lot with your seam line and makes for a smooth edge after burnishing.

Your last question on Kydex, I haven't used it, I really haven't had a need too, if you use the right combination of leather thicknesses you should have a holster that will keep it's shape while holding your gun firmly, this can be done with lined or unlined holsters, I like using a weight of 8 to 10/12 on different holsters, larger revolvers that are heavy seem to do well with the heavier weights, but are fine with 8 ounce also, it depends a lot on the style holster your going to make, wet molding does two things, it will set mold your particular gun to the holster, but it will also harden/stiffen it too, and when final finishing you don't want to use too much conditioner on the upper part of the bucket, or that can weaken /soften the leather, but if your careful the leather will keep its shape and give you years of service.

                         I hope this helps

                             Regards

                                  tEN wOLVES  

[Chuck 100 yd]

tEN wOLVES , Thanks for the reply and advice friend.

I should have explained my remark about wet molding before gluing up the lining a little better. The idea is to put the curve into the front of the pouch before the lining is glued in so it wont wrinkle the lining when folded prior to sewing the main seam. And yes I will cut the lining oversize, glue and trim later. 
I guess we are on the same page after all.
Again thanks. Lots of great info on these pages.

I placed an order for leather from Springfield leather co. a couple days ago. they offer a free sample of kydex material but I forgot to include it in my order and the shipping to just get the sample alone would be $10+. Thus my interest in the stuff.

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

   Howdy Chuck

       I guess if you're worried about wrinkles that would be the way to go about it, wrinkles don't bother me, even on my professionally made rigs made by well known makers, there are wrinkles in the fold, for me after the seam line is sewed, and the holster wetted down for molding, I use a piece of rounded over doweling the size needed to enter the bucket and fold line for smoothing, I also use a modeling spoon the large size, and smooth down the wrinkles on the inside of the bucket as needed, I use the round ball modeling tool to push down the center in the fold where the front sight rides, this really helps with the fit and ease of draw and re-holstering, if the wrinkles were on the outside where they would show, then I would care, I tried that method of folding your liner in the fold, but still got wrinkles anyway, to me the benefit of doing this doesn't add up, but to each his own, we all have different ideas, and that's what makes this fun, we can build them the way we want.

                                         Have fun pard

                                        tEN wOLVES  

[Springfield Slim]

The DAP contact cement shouldn't be used in any area you will want to dye and show as it never completely comes out of the leather, and dyes differently. Actually i'm thinking most glues won't dye-over well.

[Major 2]

I use Dap & or Weld-wood Contact brands to hold my linings and seems prior to sewing.
I tend to roll my holster ( imagine a Taco Shell ) and roll in the liner....I use 2-3 oz kip skin which stretches in nicely
few if any wrinkles.
(Slim is right it don't get in on anything you plan to finish with dye or other finish )

[ogreshooter]

Well, in my vast experience (2 holsters and have not started on a belt yet), I can help only a little.

Kydex: I had a holster pattern I already liked (had 2 holsters), cut the stitching on one, kept the other one whole. Patterned one, then I wrapped my vaquero in a gallon ziplock bag and a few layers of tape. Then I shoved the gun in the holster REALLY solid. Cut out more kydex than I needed, set it in the oven until it layed flat (you can tell when it is ready). Once it is malleable, pull it out of the oven and wrap it around the outside of the holster with the gun in it. Takes only seconds to set and remain rigid. I trim mine up after I have the main center seam glued (only half way up), and half way up on the front and back of the actual holster. I have not glued mine in, just wedged them in place. I sew up all the way around the bucket and that is it.

I will see if I have some pics of what I am talking about. ^^^^
I also used a few thicknesses of leather about an inch wide to be a stop to keep the holster from riding up when I draw. You can see it on the cross draw on the right just about where the trigger guard is.

Next was leather thickness. I use 8-10 oz for outside and line with 4-5 oz. I use only tooling leather and have not started dying or tooling yet.

I use only Barge. That is what has been suggested by many leather workers in the area and on this board. I have wet molded the leather after glue has been applied and no negative effects.

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

Both of these are kydex lined.
First one on the left, second one on the right.

[LoneRider]

Like what has been said, Kydex isn't needed if the holster is made right! Besides it's a B***h to work with!! Tried it a few times and eventually it'll work through the leather where the gun goes back in the holster!