A question about BP cleaning.....

[Fairshake]

EEZOX after your cleaning works great and Mobil 1 Sythenic Grease on the cylinder bushing and base pin will keep them turning the same after 6 stages as they did at stage 1

[Wills Point Pete]

 I just put a little black powder bullet lube on my base pins, the cylinders just keep on turning.  I also use a little stronger moosemilk, enough Ballistol mixed in to where if I leave it for a couple of days I get a layer of Ballistol on top. Maybe eight to one instead of ten. I also use the moose milk to clean the action of my Model 92 clone after BP. I squirt it in until it's dripping wet, then kind of swish an old teeth brush around, then spray it out with compressed air. Note: Do not do this in your nice clothes, and for Heaven's sake, do it outside unless you want to be suddenly struck single. Wives tend to look upon that black spay with a very jaundiced eye. I usually do this last, outside, wearing as little as possible, then straight to the shower.

The gunz dry nicely in the sun or, during winter, over the heater vent or on the open oven door with just the pilot light going.

[Percussion Pete]

I just put a little black powder bullet lube on my base pins, the cylinders just keep on turning.  I also use a little stronger moosemilk, enough Ballistol mixed in to where if I leave it for a couple of days I get a layer of Ballistol on top. Maybe eight to one instead of ten. I also use the moose milk to clean the action of my Model 92 clone after BP. I squirt it in until it's dripping wet, then kind of swish an old teeth brush around, then spray it out with compressed air. Note: Do not do this in your nice clothes, and for Heaven's sake, do it outside unless you want to be suddenly struck single. Wives tend to look upon that black spay with a very jaundiced eye. I usually do this last, outside, wearing as little as possible, then straight to the shower.

The gunz dry nicely in the sun or, during winter, over the heater vent or on the open oven door with just the pilot light going.

One neighbor to another.

"There's Pete again. Naked, spraying out his gun again."

[Steel Horse Bailey]

I want to know who mugs the moose and who's milking it

I'm with you, pard!





Ballistol "moosemilk" is my preferred solution, because, as DD says, it's the water that does the work.  Now, I don't trust Ballistol for real lubing and long-term storage protection, but it DOES work fine between my normal shooting sessions, which can be up to several months.  Ballistol oil is a lot like WD40 as a lubricant: too thin to be good, but a heck-uv-a lot better than nothing!  I use BreakFree, Gun Butter, and Lucas Gun Oil for serious lubrication, and I have some TW25 I'm soon going to try.  Like I said, moosemilk is a great cleaner-luber for after the shoot clean-up.  Then use top quality lube, like I mentioned, or PL II or any one of a number of BP friendly creams, liquids or greases for preservation - or straight Ballistol.

What do I mean, having mentioned several things?  Nothing about BP shooting or cleaning is Black-n-White ... MANY methods work fine - try several and find what you like and go with it!  Part of the fun is the experimenting!!

[Percussion Pete]

I'm with you, pard!





Ballistol "moosemilk" is my preferred solution, because, as DD says, it's the water that does the work.  Now, I don't trust Ballistol for real lubing and long-term storage protection, but it DOES work fine between my normal shooting sessions, which can be up to several months.  Ballistol oil is a lot like WD40 as a lubricant: too thin to be good, but a heck-uv-a lot better than nothing!  I use BreakFree, Gun Butter, and Lucas Gun Oil for serious lubrication, and I have some TW25 I'm soon going to try.  Like I said, moosemilk is a great cleaner-luber for after the shoot clean-up.  Then use top quality lube, like I mentioned, or PL II or any one of a number of BP friendly creams, liquids or greases for preservation - or straight Ballistol.

What do I mean, having mentioned several things?  Nothing about BP shooting or cleaning is Black-n-White ... MANY methods work fine - try several and find what you like and go with it!  Part of the fun is the experimenting!!

I trust Ballistol completely for long term storage. I don't dilute it.

Did you miss this?

http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,31980.0.html

[Steel Horse Bailey]

I trust Ballistol completely for long term storage. I don't dilute it.

Did you miss this?

http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,31980.0.html

Nope.  Thanks for posting this, 'tho.  I simply have had a couple issues with Ballistol as a preservative.  I don't know why.

Thanks to a civilian in charge of some testing while I was in the Army, I was given 4 gallons of Break-free.  I DO trust it as a lube and a preservative in storage (and in my safe) for months and now about 15 years in the case of a couple rifles I haven't shot.  (A 6.5 mm Japanese "Type I" rifle which I had no ammo for until very recently but STILL haven't shot.)


You're mileage may vary.  I'll keep using what I have, since NONE of my weapons has to stay in a wet, salty environment ...................


















I hope.

[Crow Choker]

As long as various methods of cleaning guns after shooting BP are being posted, I thought I'd toss this into the fray. Love to shoot thee ol' black (ie real black powder), but hate the clean up, esp to the cylinder of percussion c&b revolvers. Don't mind it with my '72 Open Top, as it is straight through. With the percussion one's though, they are a mighty pain, getting all the fouling out of the back end of the cylinder and in the external cut-out where the nipples are. In the last 38 yrs of shootin c&ballers, I've tried about everything from hot water and dish soap to all the home brewed and commercial solvents that have come 'down the pike'. I don't like leaving the nipples on, as it seems no matter how much 'elbow grease and tricks' ya use, there is always some 'crud' left here and there. Last week faced with cleaning my so-called non-historic '51 Navy Colt in 44 caliber(love the style and caliber), an idea came to mind. I have an attatchment to my air compressor that has a tube attatched to it for placing in a container of solvent. I've used it for cleaning off engines and such. Soooo' I took a jug of hot water and dish soap, put the hose in it, hooked it up to an air compressor, and blew the 'begee-bers' out of the cylinder(with nipples attatched)....Took only a few minutes. I followed it up with another jug of clean hot water, blew it dry with air, followed up with a good oilin'. An inspection inside showed 'no crud' and none around the cylinder cutouts (nipple area). I like to use pure Ballistol for oiling up, esp around the nipples. At times I will use products like 'Break-free' for a preservative if I don't plan on shooting the gun right away. For a oil lube on parts, I still like using pure Sperm whale oil, hard to beat. I still have a good supply bought when it was cheap and easy to get. Use lithium grease on the arbor and a little on the ratchets, never have had any problem with it gettin hard, it gets a little blackish on the very end from firing, but stays soft. One note-I might wear a slicker if I try it again, as water, etc does spray about. Wouldn't have wanted my best white shirt on-but it worked.

[Deadeye Dick]

CC,
Good idea. C & B cylinders are the pits to clean. Anyone else have an easy process to clean C & B cylinders? I use pure Ballistol for storage purposes and moose milk for general cleaning.

Deadeye Dick

[Percussion Pete]

Lots of soap and water. Along with a brush that fits tight in the chambers. Twist brush it to clean it good. It comes out squeaky clean.

Then some Ballistol to keep the rust away.

[Montana Slim]

Tub or even glass of soapy HOT water & a Bore-Mop.
Let the cylinder soak (nipples ON) while cleaning the frame & barrel (use the mop).
Pump the mop up/down in each chamber while underwater.

I use compressed air to blast the cylinder dry from both ends.
Wet the cylinder with WD-40 (chambers & nipples).
Use a patch/jag with more WD to clean each chamber.
Allow to soak while oiling the barrel, frame, etc.
Back to the cylinder - blast with compressed air to remove excess WD-40.

Grease cylinder pin & reassemble.

Works pretty well. I don't "pop" caps before a match...simply charge, then cap & shoot.
I've posted this previously in more detail if you'd care to search. Or...wait for my book 

Slim

[Jefro]

 I normally use the Murphy's mix to clean with, followed with a spray and patch of Ballistol. I tried moose milk one time, got the same result as Wille, some flash rust under the ejector rod and top of one cylinder. I think alota folks that use moose milk also use an air compressor to dry with, I don't have one. I went back to Murphy's and Ballistol, have never had a speck of rust since. I use Gun Butter (not bore butter) on base pin and all moving parts, works great. Good Luck
http://www.gunbutter.com/

Jefro

[Doc Cuervo]

I disassemble the gun, nipples and all, put them in hot soapy watter to soak a bit. Scrup the bore with a nylon brush and a mop, same with the chambers. I scrub the faces of the nipples with a tooth brush and scrub the insides with pipe cleaners. Once everything is scrubbed clean, I put all the parts in a shallow pan or cookie sheet and set it in the oven for about 30 minutes, (this dries all the moisture. while the whole thing is still warm I spray it all with WD40 and let that dry. coat of olive oil in the bore and chambers, lube thw noving parts wth balistol or TW-25 and reassemble. Been doing it that way since 1971 and still shooting the same 1858 Remngton, rust free and several others purchased later. It's not the only way, it's just the way I do it.

[Crow Choker]

The method Doc Cuervo described is the way I've always done it, with the exception of the way I described in my previous post. Don't use the oven though, tried it a few times, but blowin out with air is still faster followed by oilin'.Will keep doing it that way, but it still a pain in the buttocks, esp cleanin the cylinder and doin the nipples with pipe cleaners. Shootin thee 'ol hawglegs' is still worth it though.

[Wagon Box Willy]

EEZOX after your cleaning works great and Mobil 1 Sythenic Grease on the cylinder bushing and base pin will keep them turning the same after 6 stages as they did at stage 1

Howdy,

I have an Eezox question.

Can I continue to clean the guns with moose milk and then coat the external parts with Eezox while using Ballistol on the internals? Reading the Eezox can it only talks about removing teflons, greases and waxes from the guns before use. So I'm wondering if after the guns are clean and wiped down externally, if I can just use Eezox after the moose milk or if I have to reapply as if it was the first time every time.


I'm trying to keep my guns free of rust while stored in my barn workshop which I keep heated at 35° when I'm not down there enjoying my shop. For now I have a small handgun safe for my pistols....no rifles as yet.

I did place a 10w compact fluorescent (curly cue) bulb in the safe in hopes of keeping the moisture down and raising the temp a little bit.

    -Willy

[Steel Horse Bailey]

You'll do fine that way, Willy.  The water-base "natural stuff" (ie - moosemilk/Ballistol) is best where the BP residue will go.  The way you mention should work just fine.

The fluorescent bulb may do fine, but it doesn't give as much heat (to keep back the moisture content) as an incandescent - but it should work and not drive up the light bill.

[Yakima Red]

I am a Ballistol dealer. So that is the only product I use on my firearms. Once I found myself in a jamb for cleaning time. I had just come home from a match to find that I needed to make an emergency trip 1000 miles away immeadiately! I dumped the '58's into a plastic bag each and soaked them in Ballistol. The grips are fake ivory so it didn't matter.

Upon my return 10 days later, the '58's were the easiest to clean ever. Every bit of crud came right out. Give Ballistol a little extra time (not this extreme) and it does a fantastic job.

Straight it works on smokeyless too!

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Good info, Red.  We don't mind if you believe in a product you sell ... it tells a LOT!