Cold bluing question

amin ledbetter · July 28, 2010, 04:30:10 PM

I've been doing some homework on Cold Bluing systems. Seems the two recommended cold bluing systems for bluing an entire firearm is Brownells Oxpho Blue or Blue Wonders Gun Blue/Black. ( Been told Belgian Blue gives nice results as well, but it doesn't hold up as well as the the other two. ) I have been told that Blue Wonder was about the best for durability, and finish, by Brownells tech department, and a couple of local Smiths that have used it with good results. What is the the word across the country on this product though? How many of you have tried it, and what is your opinion of it after trying it? I'm thinking about trying it. Should I?

Pettifogger · July 28, 2010, 05:06:31 PM

Blue wonder is the absolute best cold bluing I have used. (You actually heat the parts so they are warm to the touch, but the compounds are still considered "cold" blue. It is a three part process with a cleaner, bluing agent and a developer. It blues very well and blends nicely with most original blues. I've tried them all and no single solution cold blue comes close for depth of color or durability.

amin ledbetter · August 16, 2010, 08:18:02 PM

Well I purchased the Blue Wonder gun blue kit and blued my Remy with it. I have only one complaint about the finish. It just looks way to modern looking for the gun. The Blue Wonder is a very good product. It does exactly what it says it will do. Very easy to work with, and a spectacular end result. Unfortunately though, I am going to strip the Remy back down and re-blue it. Not sure what I am going to use yet but I am doin my homework on it. Thanks Pettifogger for recommending the Blue wonder. I am a believer in it, and will definitely be using it for other firearms in the future.

Curley Cole · August 16, 2010, 11:52:10 PM

I cold blued this Dakota about 25 years ago...

(Kinda hard to type while watching a Robin Williams Special....)

curley

Jefro · August 18, 2010, 12:10:23 PM

Howdy amin, I've noticed several pards have had good luck with Laurel Mnt. Barrel Brown and Degreaser. I had planned to do an old 1897 with it, but never got aroundtuit.

Good Luck
http://www.laurelmountainforge.com/instructions.htm

Jefro

amin ledbetter · August 18, 2010, 08:55:20 PM

Seemed a shame to do it but I got the remy all stripped back down. I am gonna re-polish everything startin this weekend.

Jefro, I am gonna read up on that Browning fluid. It may be the hot ticket for this gun! Thanks for the link!

Modoc · August 19, 2010, 09:58:58 PM

Amin,

A few years back, I was given an in-the-white '58 that needed a LOT of work. After cleaning everything up, I used the Birchwood Casey "Plum Brown" for a good look. When I took it to a match, I was asked "Which part of the Desert did I find it in?"

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter · August 19, 2010, 10:18:20 PM

Quote from: Modoc on August 19, 2010, 09:58:58 PM
Amin,

A few years back, I was given an in-the-white '58 that needed a LOT of work. After cleaning everything up, I used the Birchwood Casey "Plum Brown" for a good look. When I took it to a match, I was asked "Which part of the Desert did I find it in?"

+1

the Plum Brown works and looks great

tEN wOLVES

Lucky R. K. · August 20, 2010, 08:15:25 AM

I have used both Plum Brown and Laural Mountain to do rust blueing. Both gave good results. A lot of the times it depends on the metal being done. Sometimes two cycles will give a good, deep blue black. Other times five or six cycles still show thin spots.

When everything works, nothing looks better on a gun from the period represent.

Lucky

Blair · August 20, 2010, 01:45:34 PM

I prefer Birchwood Casey Plum Brown over Loral Mountain cold brown.

The problem with BC Plum Brown is getting the proper heat to get it to work right and cover evenly.
Loral Mountain cold Brown gives one a nice rich dark brown Hershey Chocolate Syrup colored brown. Brush, swab or cloth leaves a streaked finish that is very unsatisfactory.
I have applied it with an air brush, which leaves you with an even coloration. The problem with this is that it leaves a pebble grain finish to the surface of the treated metal. This too is very unsatisfactory!

As for a "cold bluing", I prefer "Van's Instant Gun Blue". It can be ordered from Brownell's
Just my opinion,
Blair

amin ledbetter · August 20, 2010, 05:45:08 PM

I have used BC Plum Brown on one of my other Remy's and it looks awesome! I love the way it looks. ( I worked it to look like an antiqued finish. ) I have been wanting to cold rust blue a gun for a while now, and this may be the one I choose to try it on. Or I have also been collecting the iron to build the components I need to Charcoal blue a Gun. Again, this may be the gun I try that on. I just can't seem to make up my mind.

I'll look into the Vans Instant Blue as well. Do you have any pics of the guns you have used it on Blair?

Blair · August 20, 2010, 07:25:30 PM

amin,

The first image is a section of barrel I cut off a '51 conversion Colt. It sat outside in my work shop of a number of years.

Second image is that same barrel section that I sanded with 150 grit paper to brighten the metal, then blued it with Van's.
The barrel this section was cut from is in the image with with the stub.
Blair

amin ledbetter · August 20, 2010, 10:36:23 PM

Nice coloring! Now the gun pictured with the stub has not been re-blued has it? If it hasn't then the Vans matches it fairly close in color. I like that! May have to get some and try it on a piece of scrap! Thanks again Blair!

Blair · August 21, 2010, 07:38:08 AM

amin,

No, the barrel of the revolver has not been re blued.

Keep in mind the flat of the barrel stub was cleaned to bright metal with 150 grit paper. That would be a pretty course finish for any firearm. I didn't even try to remove the pits caused by the rusting.
Had I cleaned it up to a 320 grit, the finish and color would have been an even better match.

This was one coat applied with a cotton cleaning patch. Warmed a bit with a torch to to speed up drying, a light puffing with oil free 0000 steel wool and a second coat of Van's from the same cleaning patch.
One coat on lightly warmed parts will give a Charcoal Blue like finish. Additional applications will darken the bluing to a blue-black finish. (Warming the parts, for something like a revolver, may be done in hot water, dry off the excess water.)

If you look close, you cans see where the Van's got onto the two barrel flats on either side and even blued the un cleaned rusty metal.
Blair

amin ledbetter · August 21, 2010, 09:18:16 AM

I think I'm sold enough to give that a try Blair! In other words you talked me into it pard!!

I'll order me some today! Any special advice on how to achieve an even streak free job on an all over?

Blair · August 21, 2010, 10:49:30 AM

amin,

The "key" and work is in preparation of the parts.
Degrease with hot soapy water and/or something like acetone. Acetone will also degrease your 0000 steel wool. Allow the steel wool to dry out some. If it is still damp from the acetone, it wont harm your work.

First coat may look spotty and/or streaked. This may be caused from contaminates that you have not removed.
Clean with the steel wool, "lightly" warm the parts and apply the next coat and it will clear up.
I would suggest a cotton swab applicator, wet with the Van's but not dripping or running wet.
Let air dry for about an hour. Rub it down with the oil free 0000 steel wool. If you want more color, apply another coat and so on until you get what you want. Oil it with a good gun oil when you get what you want. (It may continue to darken without a good oiling.)

You can do some experimenting on the underside of the barrel first (before you try it on the whole barrel and frame).
If you like what you get do the whole barrel and frame. The underside portion will blend in.

If Brownells does not have it try,
C. S. Van Gorden & Son
Bloomer, Wisconsin. They have a web site, Google in, "Van's, Instant Gun Blue"
Blair