Newbie to holster/leather making - making a lined holster

[oscarflytyer]

I am new at making holsters.  I in the process of finishing my first one.  Intended for it to be lined, but that didn't work out as planned!  So the first will be unlined...!

My question is - what is the process to build a lined holsters.  I know all the pitfalls of the two halves not lining up and wrinkles, etc.  But how do I measure and figure out how to cut/size the outer holster vs the liner?  And assume you want to sew the entire liner into the outer holster.  What is the trick to marking the sewing holes?

Also - what weight leather do you use for the outer holster and what do you use for the liner?  Assume that all my holsters for the time being are going to be heavy/stiff models for Rugers for CAS shooting.

Thanx for any advice!

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I generally don't make lined holsters but I think most of the pards here glue the liner in prior to sewing. You'll get one of the other pards on here who'll be able to give you much more information than that. You're in the right place for good information.

Welcome to the forum. Looking forward to seeing your work.

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

Howdy Oscar

   Welcome to the Leather Shop, I've made lots of lined holsters,  first off pick the weight leather you're going to use, if you use a 4/5 ounce leather, you can just use the same leather for your lining, but if you are using say 7/8 or 8/9, you will want to use a much thinner leather for your lining, like 3/4 ounce, it all depends on just how strong or heavy you want it to be, I try to stay between 8 and 12 ounces for combined thickness, next, I mark my pattern and cut it out, I'll do any tooling, stamping, and edge bevel where necessary, put in my stitching groove and use my stitch marker, if I want the liner to be a different color than the front, I will dye the front now, if you're going to have both the same color then hold off for now!!, next I will place the front side on a piece of lining leather, so that the lining leather is finished side down, and the front side finished side up, I then scribe a line around the front or cut pattern on to the fresh side of the liner, I'll use this as a guide when placing the front to the liner, leave plenty of extra on the liner, so you won't have any fitting problems when cementing the front to the lining then using contact cement I put cement on the both sides that are to be joined together, I usually wait 10 to 20 minutes for the cement to get tacky, then put the front side over the liner and press down as I go, after that I tap it all down with a smooth headed hammer, don't pound it , just tap it, this will help get air out and make a better bond.
Next I cut around my cut pattern through the liner to remove the excess from the liner by not cutting the liner pattern out first and leaving enough area around the liner for the front to be cemented makes it much easier by not having to put two exact pieces together . if you haven't dyed your holster and want the liner to be the same color, do your dyeing now.
  I use a # 5 stitch marker to mark my holes, and do this on damp leather, there are other ways to do these things, but I'm not going to confuse you with too much info., when folding over the holster to sew the stitch line, I use contact cement on the stitch line , and that means both sides that will be joined.

                     Hope this helps

                    Regards

                  tEN wOLVES  

[GunClick Rick]

Just do it the way i do it..Don't make any

But of course when ya do we wanna see

[Wiley Desperado]

Howdy Oscar

I much prefer unlined holsters, however I have made a number of lined holsters and I agree with everthing TW said.  I will point out two techniques I learned by trial and error. (1) The liner needs to be bigger than the outer holster to start with, after you glue them together You can trim the liner to size.  Don't attempt to make the liner the exact size of the holster and then try to glue them together I promise the liner will end up being to small.  (2) To avoid wrinkles in the liner along the inside of the front of the holster ( where the holster folds over or curves) wet mold the holster first and semi-shape the holster curve.  After the holster has dried out to just a lightly damp stage apply glue like TW said, and starting on one inside main edge start laying in the liner along the complete length of the inside of the holster keeping it smooth with your hand.  When you get to the curve make sure the liner stays in there tight and smooth work it around the curve and along the other half of the inside of the holster.  From that point on I never try to open the holster to a totally flat position again.  I take a 1/2'' round wooden dowel about 6" long and rub it with pressure over the liner repeatedly to make sure it is smooth, especially along the inside curve.  Works for me.     
Wiley      

[DUKE DEADEYE NUKEM]

Welcome Oscar. 

[Boothill Bob]

Welcome to the forum..
I´ve found a webpage that u can use

http://leatherworker.net/SimmonsHolster.pdf

Hope to see some of the work here soon

//BhB

[Biscuit Joe]

Boothill Bob Great link!

This is one of the clearest bit of instructions on how to build a cowboy holster that I have seen.
I suggest that you check it out oscarflytyer .
Welcome to the site!

[TN Mongo]

Oscar,

Ten Wolves covered most of the basics.  Almost all of my holsters are lined.  I do a few things differently.  After gluing on the lining, I stitch the lining to the body of the holster, except the welt (the seam that you stitched on your unlined holster).  Then I trim the extra leather of the lining even with the "top leather" it's glued to.  I sew my lining on to the holster while it's perfectly flat.  Other holster makers start to bend their holsters slightly before they glue on a lining.  Everyone has a method that works for them.  After wetting the leather on both sides, I bend the holster over and let it dry.  Once dry, I glue the welt together and then stitch it.  After edging, sanding and burnishing the welt, I wet fit the holster to the gun.  Once the holster has dried from wet fitting, I dye the entire holster lining and all.

[oscarflytyer]

Welcome to the forum..
I´ve found a webpage that u can use

http://leatherworker.net/SimmonsHolster.pdf

Hope to see some of the work here soon

//BhB

Thanx Boothill!  This looks VERY helpful.  Now all I have to do is get another hide!

[Cliff Fendley]

I seldom do lined holsters since I do my gun leather period and few originals were lined. When I seldom do line a holster or sheath I use thin leather or buckskin and glue it to inside of the holster with Barge. Sew the top then fold and assemble and sew the main seam and toe plug.

[Trailrider]

Ten Wolves nailed it! The only comment I have isn't in response to that post, but merely a cautionary note:

The selection of lining materials is important!  Buckskin or suede is NOT a good choice for lining material.  Both are very porous and the rough surface will pick up dirt and powder residue, whether black or unburned smokeless powders.  In addition, most suedes and similar materials are CHROME TANNED!  So can SOME pigskin.  (You may be able to get vegetable-tanned pig, but check with your dealer if you choose to use pig!)  I use VEGETABLE-TANNED COWHIDE ONLY!  This is usually in 3-4 oz. leather, although on some occasions I will use 2-3 oz.  It depends on the holster and the thickness of the outer layer, which is also veg-tanned.

Why not chrome-tanned leather for the lining?  Bacause the chromic acid will wreck the finish on blued guns and is BAD for stainless steel, as well.  Veg-tanned cowhide, with the smooth side to the gun will also make it easier to draw the gun, although the holster must still be wet-fit to the gun after assembly.

Hope this helps.

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

Ten Wolves nailed it! The only comment I have isn't in response to that post, but merely a cautionary note:

The selection of lining materials is important!  Buckskin or suede is NOT a good choice for lining material.  Both are very porous and the rough surface will pick up dirt and powder residue, whether black or unburned smokeless powders.  In addition, most suedes and similar materials are CHROME TANNED!  So can SOME pigskin.  (You may be able to get vegetable-tanned pig, but check with your dealer if you choose to use pig!)  I use VEGETABLE-TANNED COWHIDE ONLY!  This is usually in 3-4 oz. leather, although on some occasions I will use 2-3 oz.  It depends on the holster and the thickness of the outer layer, which is also veg-tanned.

Why not chrome-tanned leather for the lining?  Bacause the chromic acid will wreck the finish on blued guns and is BAD for stainless steel, as well.  Veg-tanned cowhide, with the smooth side to the gun will also make it easier to draw the gun, although the holster must still be wet-fit to the gun after assembly.

Hope this helps.

I'm in total agreement with Trailrider, suede, is a poor choice, for the reasons already mentioned, Chrome tanned leather is very hard on metals, it's fine for money belts preferably without bullet loops, but if you have to have loops use only Veg Tan leather for your loops, and try to use a veg tan backing as well. for bullet loop leather, I've used 3/4 and 4/5 ounce with good results.

              tEN wOLVES