Tried something new

[Noz]

Those of you that know me know that I can't leave well enough alone. I've got to be doing something different all the time. I was gettng my 1860 Armys ready for a match when I discovered my Bore Butter for the arbors was at the other end of the shop. Now I'm not what you would call lazy but it was almost 100' away. I lubed the arbors with some home made soft pearl lube (DDs recipe) I use for bullet lube.
It worked wonderfully well. 5 stages and no evidence of binding at all. I felt like I could have gone 10 with no problem. I took the cylinders off today to clean and the arbors were as clean as I have ever seen them after 5 stages.
I think I'll be doing that for a while.

[Sgt. Jake]

Noz   I use Dicks Pearl Lube formula in the place of BB,never had a shooter foul the arbor with it. Dab some around the face of the cylinder by the arbor and fouling never gets to the arbor, Dick did use all a favor when he gave us the formula for his Pearl Lube,Great Stuff,many uses.     Adios  Sgt. Jake

[Montana Slim]

Crisco will get ya by in a pinch as well.....I've also tried white lithium grease and CLP among others....all worked reasonably well on the arbor pin...at least for 30 shots or so.

Of course I use an over-ball lube & this continually resupplies the buisness end of the proposition with the needed cleansing lubrication. For this I use a crisco base lube, stiffened slightly by other ingredients. Authentic...probably no...but, it works well & there are no runs or drips in my holsters, either.

Regards,
Slim

[Percussion Pete]

Please inform me of this mystery Pearl formula.

[Springfield Slim]

I just make up a few little balls the size of peas out of my regular BP lube. After I seat the bullet I just flatten out a pea ball on top of the lead ball. Never any problem with lube that way. I store the lube balls in an old plastic bullet box, the Speer ones with the hinged lid.

[Noz]

Pearl Lube. Equal parts: Soy Wax(from Hobby Lobby in the candle department)toilet ring and vegetable shorting. I throw a couple of stubs of burnt out Christmas candles in mine because I like the strawberry smell.

[Percussion Pete]

I just make up a few little balls the size of peas out of my regular BP lube. After I seat the bullet I just flatten out a pea ball on top of the lead ball. Never any problem with lube that way. I store the lube balls in an old plastic bullet box, the Speer ones with the hinged lid.

What a great idea. You must use a pretty firm BP lube or they would meat in hot weather. What do you use?


Noz,
Thanks for the formula.

[Springfield Slim]

6 parts beeswax, 3 parts parraffin and 2 parts 2-stroke oil. It is soft when you handle it, melts about 145 degrees. I dumped the Crisco out of my mix a few years ago, made everything too sticky. I have tried the Soy based lubes but I found them to be too brittle for my purposes.

[Paladin UK]

Fer SS.......
I notice ya  use 6 parts Beeswax making it yer main ingredient. Don't that make it awful `spensive    `cos over this side of the pond Beeswax is a.....   HELLISH PRICE 

I use...
1 part Beeswax
2 parts Paraffin Wax
2 parts Mutton tallow............. The tallow is gettin pricey but no where near the price of beeswax

Paladin (Whats kinda curious  ) UK

[Springfield Slim]

I get most of my beeswax from guys on the castboolits site, about 4 bucks a lb. That is cheaper than store bought parraffin from the grocery store, so I get THAT from a candle making site. There are many different recipe's for lube, this happens to be mine at the moment. Not too many sheep in my immediate area.

[Noz]

The pearl lube is sticky due to the toilet bowl ring. I like that in a black powder lube. It also liquifys at a little over body temperature. I also like that in a black powder lube. It's cheap and I really like that in a black powder lube.
I found that the old revolutionary lube with the beeswax and tallow was too stiff.

[Dick Dastardly]

PL-II uses a proprietary ingredient instead of the bowl ring wax.  It's a mite more stable than PL Classic.  I had problems shipping PL Classic in hot weather.  Also, the original PL recipe had shown signs of "weeping".  That didn't hurt anything as long as it was held captive between the lube grove and the brass case, but I was concerned about the possibility of powder contamination with long term ammo storage.

Now, I've run tests on some of my original PL lubed ammo and found it to be completely satisfactory after over Five years of storage.  So, you can use the original PL with confidence but I'll continue to sell PL-II because of it's stability over time and temperature.

FWIW, there have been many articles written about the use of Pearl Lube, both original and PL-II where torture tests have shown that the cylinder base pins do benefit significantly from the lube splash on the base pin and cylinder face.  This was particularly obvious in the article in the CC by Silas McFee aka Erik Shetney and his Remington 58s.  So, yes, both PL Classic and PL-II do help to keep those black powder pistols running easy and accurate.

DD-DLoS   

[Paladin UK]

Fer Noz.......


FWIW.......I use my mix for the DD_PUK-ROA and Lubed wads. 

And find that it is Just the ticket for an all-year round lube here in the UK ....Having tried LOTS of other combinations Its great to find one that werks fer you `n your needs!! 

Paladin (What lurvs makin smoke  ) UK

[Crow Choker]

I've used white lithium grease for years with no problems of any binding after many shots. The grease on the front end of the cylinder pin will have a blackish to grey color when taking the cylinder out after firing, but no adverse reation to the black powder residue whether shooting below 32*F or 90* plus. Works equally well for Colts and Remingtons. Back in the early days of cap an' ball shooting (early 70's) I tried bore butter type products, gun and wheel bearing grease, etc, but found the white lithium to work with no problems. Will have to give the 'pearl lube' a try though, but well satisfied with the lithium-it's cheap too-a tube costs only several bucks, lasts a long time.