Glue Didn't Set

[JD Alan]

Howdy guys. I'm making a lined holster for a 1911. I put glue on both pieces, using the same Tandy glue I've used several times before. I let it set overnight, as I've read a few here do.

I came out this morning to put them together and they wouldn't stick. I hammered them down as best as possible, and it didn't help at all.

The only thing I can think of is the glue is approaching two years old. I'm down to the last of the first quart I bought, after messing around with several small cans. I've had to thin it down a few times, including last night. I used the proper thinner, and I've done it before with no problems.

The shop was no colder than usual, so I don't think it's the weather. I slapped another coat on both, let them set about 20 minutes or so, them put them together. This time it looks like its working ok. Same glue, leather, etc.

I haven't figured out how to get any Barge yet, but I'm working on it. Without a business license no one around here will sell it to me.

Any thoughts on what happened? 

[Ned Buckshot]

Is it a contact cement type?

If it is it will dry too much and not stick at all, recaoting will take care of the problem as you did. However some types do have a shelf life and will just one day not work at all!

Ned

Have you tried to get Barge from Tandy?

[outrider]

JD,

If you are using that white bond glue...you need to put the pieces together within a few minutes otherwise it won't stick  especially if it's cold in the shop....remember that is a water based product   I usually put the pieces together as soon as it gets a little tacky....works fine for me

Have you tried the Leather Factory/...tanners bond contact cement..it's made for them by Barge..

[ChuckBurrows]

I let it set overnight, as I've read a few here do

JD as the others noted you let it set too long before contact cementing it together. The letting it set over night is done AFTER gluing the pieces together - this allows the glue to completely off gas and dry to full-strength.
With contact cement - apply to both sides and let dry until the leather looks glazed - if it looks dry add another coat and let dry until you get that glazed look over the entire surface. Then glue the two pieces together and tap all over.

[knucklehead]

JD, yep i concure with all others about letting it sit too long.

also Donna at leather factory has barge cement its in a blue tube now instead of yellow.
you can buy it by the tube without a hazard material license/business license.

do you still have the papers that chan geer gave out at the class last october?
think he listed on one of the papers what glue he prefers.
also i still have one of the cans he gave us. i can let you know what the name is of the glue.
it worked real well at the class.

[JD Alan]

I'm using Tanner's Bond. It seems enough people like it that I'm not going to worry about Barges at this point.

Thanks for the advice, I do appreciate it very much!

[Slowhand Bob]

Jd, actually I like Tanners Bond and have laminated leather to leather many times with it and know of some pretty old stuff out there thats still holding.  With that said I am a bit worried as to how well it will hold up with metal laminated in the layers but time will tell!  It is one of the easiest and quickest glues to spread that I have used.

If you are doing a one coat job and spreading it out pretty thin, it doesnt need to set very long at all.  I am to impatient to use two coats normally but it is claimed to be stronger.  On those occasions that I have done two coats I can tell you that the second coat does not seem to set quite as fast as the first, probably due to the fact that its not on a porous surface the second time around???  Should be a possible trick to remember if you are ever doing a really large glue job and need to by a few extra minutes.  I threw away several large unopened bottles of this stuff a year or so back due to it being so old that the plastic bottles were actually getting brittle and the contents were almost solid.

[Don Nix]

I only use Barges and I know that it can be expensive but in my opinion it is the best.
When I first started barges was not a hazardous material and it was expensive. Then I got a boat load of forms from the EPA to post concerning the use and storage of hazardous materials and a notice to be posted in a prominent place warning my customers that barges cement was in use. UPS put a whopping hazardous materiel surcharge on it and it got real expensive. Something like $50 a gallon.
I finally found a veterinary supply truck that made the rounds from Dallas and he would pick up my Barges orders for me and drop them off at my shop for $10.

Its not on the explosive lists now so UPS doesnt hit you with that high fee.
I still order it  and I'd be glad to ship to any one  but I'll have to check with Ups.

[Dalton Masterson]

I have used both Tanners Bond and Barge. I usually use the Barge, as its what is in front of me on the bench. I just get the little tubes from Tandy. They are not restricted like the big cans are. 1 tube will last me quite awhile, and I dont have the worry about it drying out or the hazardous issues with shipping.
I have had good success with Tanners Bond too tho.
DM

[JD Alan]

I've got less thah an inch left in one of those plasrtic bottles Tandy sells with the brush mounted in it. Those bottles get so messed up with glue, and I use a second bottle with thinner in it for the brush.

Thanks again guys, JD   

[White Buffalo Chip]

Good idea JD, I never thought about another
bottle with thinner for the brush. Thank you

WBC

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

   I use Tanners Bond contact cement, I also have a small tube of barge, but I find the Tanners Bond does everything I need it to, and I like it's ease of use, I buy it by the quart can, it has a built in brush, and as long as I remember to keep the lid tight, it doesn't get dried or lumpy on me. I also use Tanners Rubber cement, but never for a permanent bond.

          Regards

      tEN wOLVES 

[JD Alan]

The brush in the thinner is from Chuck Burrows DVD on holster building, best money I've spent yet.

Someone mentioned (Can't remember who to give credit) that you could use flux brushes; they're cheap and you can just toss them when you're done. That might not be kosher for some with environmental leanings.

I found a source for Barge cement and thinner, so I bought some. Kid Terico gave me a good idea to try but I'd already bought the barge, but couldn't say so right at the moment I was on the phone with him.

This all started when I misread a comment here. Good advice all the way around and I sure do appreciate It   

[Springfield Slim]

I have found the Barge's is too easy to make a mess, so I have been using DAP Contact Cement from the hardware store. It holds well for seams before you sew but if you want too it can be pulled apart again. I always get strings of glue all over with Barge's.  I don't line holsters so maybe Barges would be better for permanent glue jobs, but no experiance with that.

[JD Alan]

The few I've been making have been lined by request. I have string problems with Tanner's Bond, so I would imagine I'm going to have similar problems with the Barge, so I'll try to be especially careful. Thanks for the heads up, JD   

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I have less string problems with Barge by thinning the cement slightly. It sometimes takes an extra coat to compensate.

[JD Alan]

Thanks Marshall. I'll keep that in mind as well.

[MontanaSlick]

Yer doing fine JD,
I use Tandy contact cement glue and works fine, if I go past the 25-30 min. thats recomened I just reapply with a second coat .

I'm going to try a liner on a ammo belt, just to see how it comes out and I'll stick with the same glue.
Good luck.
MS

[Dalton Masterson]

A lot of times, when I glue my main seam, I just use Elmers rubber cement. Works good, comes apart if I need it to, and holds long enough to get it stitched. Clean up is easy as well. I have used it for lining a few things, but have used Tanners for lining as well. I dont do enough lining to make much comment on how well it worked tho. (small things anyway, like check book covers)

DM