need Hammer removal advice

[treebeard]

Turns out my Burnside Spencer has a broken half cock and it is not repairable. Almost looks like it was
removed on purpose or it chipped and a previous owner took what was left off.  Regardless I acquired an
original replacement in good condition but now finding the hammer difficult to remove. I am going to
let it soak in Kroil for next 24 hrs and try again. How about heating the area of hammer where it is attached
to the tumbler stub. Thanks for any advice.

[Snakeeater]

Soaking in Kroil overnight should help matters, but you will need a roll pin or tumbler punch to separate hammer. If you do not have a tumbler punch, you can use most any similiar tool (even a 8d finish nail should suffice in a pinch). But the punch will direct the force of each blow to the bottom of the hammer screw pilot without damaging the face of the tumbler shaft or the internal screw threads. Personally, I would recommend the mixed brass and steel roll pin set shown in the link below:

http://www.sears.com/se-st1024c-8-piece-punch/p-SPM6189868908P?PDP_REDIRECT=false

P.S. Do not throw away the broken tumbler. Rob Lewis of Tri-L Machine (one of the N-SSA sutlers) can repair your broken tumbler with cobalt welding and re-cut the notches. He can also "adjust" your trigger pull to whatever is the required trigger pull threshold (i.e. 4-lbs). He rebuilt the scear for my Liege-made "non-interchangeable" Enfield which would have otherwise required a new scear to be made from scratch or else the rifle sold off as inoperable because of a broken scear.

Rob Lewis
Tri-L Machine
3752 Pioneer Village Rd.
Waynesville, OH 45068
(937) 252-1978

[Herbert]

Another way is to use a small brass wedge,place it between the hamer and lock plate ,as you tap the wedge in it will slide the hammer off the tumbler,do not use steel wedges or anthing that is harder than the lock plate or hammer

[Arizona Trooper]

The hammer is pressed on to the tumbler. The safest way to take it off is to remove the hammer screw and everything from the back of the lock (springs, bridle, sear, etc.) so that only the tumbler is left. Get a chunk of wood, like a scrap piece of 2X4 and bore a hole through it so that the lock plate lays flush on the wood with the hammer up and the tumbler in the hole unsupported. Using a center punch that will drop down the hammer screw hole without whacking the threads, gently drive the tumbler out the back of the lock plate. The Springfield 1879 rifle tool has the perfect tumbler punch built in.

To reassemble, lightly oil the tumbler and install it in the back of the lock. Place the hammer on the tumbler square, being sure that the hammer and tumbler are are oriented correctly. There are four possibilities, only one is right! Place a small socket over the back of the tumbler so that the pin sticking off the back is protected (NEVER press on the tumbler pin, it will break). A 1/4" drive 3/8" hex socket works well. Place the stack in a vise in this order, vise face, socket, tumbler, lockplate, hammer, other vise face. Crank down the vise until the hammer is seated.

Whatever you do, don't file down the tumbler square so the hammer slips on easily. It will come loose on the tumbler very quickly.   

[treebeard]

Some excellent advice here!! I have allready made up a 2X4 with a cutout using a Foster bit . I tried removing the
tumbler last night but still getting a lot of resistance but like the support it gives the lock plate. I went out with the
old tubler today as I received some TenX blackpowder loads and I was wanting to try my Spencer out for the first time
with the S&S block fitted. I will try not to ruin the old tumbler as suggested as i would like to get it fixed.

Once again thanks for all the help.

[Snakeeater]

If you are getting so much resistance from the tumbler refusing to slip out, you may have some other issue preventing the tumbler separating from the hammer? If you have already disassembled the lock and only have the tumbler, hammer and plate remaining, a few taps on a roll pin punch inserted into the hammer screw pilot and up against the bottom of the pilot hole, should separate the two by simply holding them in your hands (nevermind using a wood block). Just so to verify my advice, I removed the tumbler from my New Model last night with no more than three taps on a roll pin punch, with the lock straddled over my bench vice (padded). Will also add: when you have finished removing the tumbler, check to make sure you haven't inadvertently "bent" your lock-plate.

FOR EXTREME CASES: If you have been soaking the lock in Kroil, dry it off and applying a little heat from a propane torch may cause the two metal parts to expand enough to break the bond between them. If not, put the lock in a deep freezer overnight and see if that will do it? But do let the metal return to near room temperature before you try to separate them. Cast steel is often extremely brittle.

[Jan Buchwald]

Watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mZxhn-lKSCk&feature=c4-overview&list=UUVYkbbrXEVCGiwOQ3iCC1Gw

[treebeard]

Thanks to all for the advice on the hammer removal problem. I  have been diverted form this for a
couple weeks but will get back to it soon. On my other problem of the refusal to feed more than four
rounds from the tube I took some advice here and made up dummy's with longer OAL and now it is
feeding 7 from the tube--have not had a chance to get to the range with live ammo yet.

Thanks again for all the help--I am having a lot of fun!! You learn a lot when you have a few problems to
overcome.  Love my Spencer!!