Has Uberti worked their problems out with the Type II

[Cowboy Bob]

I was looking to pick one up in a 38 but I'm far from being a gunsmith  
I read some threads here from several years ago regarding splitting with the 45's (which I'm not getting anyway) and something about the firing pin hitting the back of the conversion  


Has Uberti fixed these problems on newer production guns (specifically the 38's)?
I'm not very concerned about speed or smoothness out of the box; I just want a gun that's going to work right and not going to give me a headache / extra gunsmith's costs just to get it to function properly like a new gun should.

thanks

[Pettifogger]

All of the Open Tops need work out of the box if they are going to be used in competition.  Period!  The .45s had thin barrel throats because Uberti didn't make the cylinder and barrel bigger to accommodate the gas ring at the front of the cylinder.  The cap and ball guns from which these are based don't have gas rings on their cylinders so this is not a problem with them.  When the barrel is machined to clear the gas ring the metal is very thin.  Cylinder walls and notches are also thin.  These problems don't exist with the .38 because the cylinder and barrel walls are thicker because of the smaller caliber.  Whether the firing pin clears the adapter ring is a gun by gun situation.  They all need to be inspected and tuned to make sure there aren't any problems out of the box.  The barrel to arbor fit on virtually all Uberti open tops is incorrect and needs to be corrected if the gun is to be reliable for thousands of rounds.

[Coffinmaker]

What Pettifogger said.

Coffinmaker

[shooter93]

Explain the arbor to barrel fit issues?

[Coffinmaker]

Depending on whether your a Glass Half Full or Glass Haf Empty, either the barrel is bored too deep for the arbor, or the arbor is too short for the hole in the barrel.  When assembled, each time the wedge is replaced, the barrel can move on the arbor, often causing a real barrel to cylinder gap problem and an end shake problem.  When the arbor fits tight to the bottom of the barrel bore, when you seat the wedge, everything is where it is suppose to be and you just whack the wedge home tight.  The gun doesn't "shoot lose."

Coffinmaker

[Messerist]

Is the barrel to arbor fit a "do-it-yourself" project or would you recommend a gunsmith.  If so do you know of a good one?