A possible new method of doing patterns?

[Jim in Tucson]

Folks,

So far I haven't done any engraved patterns into leather other than that one oval shaped around the "yin yang" pieces.

I saw Arizona Cattleman's picture of the layout for his rifle scabbard project and have been thinking about it:



I think I have a method available of printing out a sheet of paper that has "loose ink" on it ready to be pressed down onto a leather sheet, forming the pattern right there.

Take an old HP Laser printer, Laserjet 2 through 4 would work well, or an early model Apple Laser or other "Canon engine" printer - used, worth $50 tops.  They have a separate "toner fuser" heating element at the end of the paper path.  Pull that out completely.  What you get is printed pages in which the toner powder isn't yet "fused" (with heat) to the page.  So...take such pages, press 'em down onto leather sheets.  Poof - instant pattern transfer.  Now start punching.

Is there an existing low-tech method of transferring designs such as the one pictured to leather?

Keep in mind I'm a terrible freehand artist, which is why I thought of this. 

If there's an existing method to transfer a paper pattern to leather I'm going to feel pretty stupid...

[Gun Butcher]

   Jim, most of use us transfer paper to get the pattern on the leather. I use a stylus myself. Your idea has me thinking though.
The only problem I see with it is trying to lay the papaer on the leather exactly where yo want it . I would think if you didn't you would get black on your leather in places you didn't want it. Thats why I don't even use a pen unless I am marking on the hidden side of a piece.
Other than freehanding the design IMHO transfer paper is the best way to get the pattern where you need it to be.

[northwestgrizzly]

This may sound odd, but tattoo artists use an transfer type paper. They draw the design onto the paper peel a backing off and press onto the skin transferring the design, which they then proceed to tatoo. I dont know if it would work going through a printer but I know there are iron-on transfer papers that go through the printer and then can be ironed onto materials. Maybe one of those might work also. Just a thought.  

Here is what I'm talking about. This is actual body art tattoo papers that can go through a printer and then peel the backing off and apply and you transfer the design on to the desired surface.......

http://www.paper-paper.com/body-art-instructions.html

[Slowhand Bob]

One problem I see with most transfers like this is the smudging thing on leather, ball point pens have a similar problem also.  Some guys swear by the clear transfer plastic transfer material, I never really was crazy about the stuff but options are limited when talking complicated patterns.  We were recently talking about computer enhancement of individual pattern elements found in books to use for custom design work.  I would love to see Tandy take this a step further and do their Craftaids in different pattern elements that could be merged to form those custom images.  About the closest I have seen is a couple of Craftaid sheets with flower blooms, various animals or symbols.

[Kid Terico]

GB I would recommend your method rather than ink transfer for the reasons you said. I do what you say and its a easy way to do it. Dont have to worry about error. I would not want to worry about color transfer. KT

[Arizona Cattleman]

I was told that Tandy would not produce a Craftaid unless they could sell at least 5,000 units.  I had sugested Craft aids for different style bilits and sizes.  Would be real handy.

AC

[Dave Cole]

I  am another using the standard transfer film technique butquite often I am asked to do a logo or something like that.Instead of tracing the pattern to film and then onto the leather I usually have my wife size the image and print it then I directly trace using the paper.Your leather must be a little bit dryer for this method but I lose alot less detail.
Now the Iron-on transfer method is doable but it is kind of a bear to remove once on.I use this method with a few additional things to do , to apply full color images directly to the leather.After some additional steps it becomes very durable.`Not exactly Western, but it does solve some issues with color and detail.Dave 

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

       I do all my tracing from either tracing paper or tracing film, I don't want any chance of ink getting on my leather, I hope WC will chime in here on this subject, I've seen work that he's done, where he has used the transferred method, like Dave Coles work it looked really nice.

                  tEN wOLVES 

[CQMD]

 

I was told that Tandy would not produce a Craftaid unless they could sell at least 5,000 units.  I had sugested Craft aids for different style bilits and sizes.  Would be real handy.

AC

Check with Grey Ghost Graphics as they will make you craft aids from your indiviaual patterns 
http://www.greyghostgraphics.com/Stamp%20Brochure.pdf
Bobby

[GunClick Rick]

I got no buissness chimin in here,but i got the idea once of doing a knife sheath with rawhide and wanted the parflech look.I thought,i wonder if a tatoo guy could tatoo on rawhide? I went to the tatoo shop around the corner and asked.They said it would not work as the needles are very small and would break and plus when they do it the ink smudges and they have top wipe it off and would get everywhere on the rawhide.

But i am always thinkin Just a note~~

[cowboywc]

Howdy All
I only use tracing film or craftaids. I don't want any ink of any kind on my leather. I don't flip tracing film over to get a reverse unless I put another piece of tracing film under it to avoid getting lead on my leather.
These are just my opinions but they have worked for me for many years.
WC

[Dalton Masterson]

I use drafting mylar. Its clear enough to see the leather through, and after I get a page worth of patterns transferred to it, I spray it with a clear cote of enamel, and viola. No lead transfer, permanent, and easily flipped over back and forth. I have yet to wear out a piece of it either.
Craftaids are nice, and one day may get GGHost to make me a few custom ones.
DM

[Jim in Tucson]

Referring back to my original post: the reason I know about this is, I've fixed laser printers where the fuser unit blew out.  The un-fused toner isn't ink at all, it's a dry black powder with more or less no "stick" to it at all.  The only reason it stays on the paper long enough to fuse is static electricity, which is deliberately used inside the printer for that purpose.  With a "dead fuser" printer, you get paper with completely normal looking print, except the "print" wipes right off.  The fuser unit *melts* it into the paper as the final step.

So, I'm talking about transferring toner powder to the damp leather that WILL NOT be hard to remove at all once dry.  It should sweep right off.

It sure as hell ain't "ink" by any stretch.

[FEATHERS]

G'Day Pards,Just like to throw in my 2 cents worth if I can What works really great for me in my tracings,is I have a few ballpoint pens with different size nibs (balls) & what I did was cut the ink tube off,gave them to my grandkids with a heap of paper & got them to doodle till their hearts content till no ink was left in the nib.They work better than my stylis as the ball rolls a lot easier & no ink smudges,it also leaves a really good line in the leather for your swivel knife to follow.Feathers

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I only use tracing film. Other than that, I do a design freehand. I've tried craftaids but the designs are never what I want so I wind up re-drawing them anyway.

[JD Alan]

I have used Craftaids to get a specific design element from it, because like Marshall said, the whole design is usually not want you want.

I transfer the Craftaid image on cased leather, then photocopy the leather while it's still damp. That way there is enough contrast for the copier to pick up the image. I tried photocopying the picture they provide with the Craftaid, but most of the time there isn't enough contrast to get a good image.

Now I have the Craftaid on paper and I can use any part of it I need to make a design. I can also easily increase or decrease the size of the image to fit my project. Of course it really helps to have a good copier at your disposal! I do the same thing with designs in some of the Stohlman books 

If I did a better job drawing freehand I wouldn't go to those lengths.   

[Dalton Masterson]

JD, I have had decent results photocopying the craft aid itself, by adjusting the light/dark to really dark. You may have to play with it a little to get it just right.

DM

[JD Alan]

Dalton, I never thought about photocoping the Craftaid! I wil give that one a try. This is a good example of why this forum is so helpful.  Thanksl JD