Holster Keeper Question

Started by JD Alan, September 16, 2009, 03:45:01 PM

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JD Alan

In my continuing quest to learn how to make decent holsters, I'm wondering about the various ways to attach the back flap to the body of the holster. On the 1st holster below, I'm using Chicago screws. The two holes close together are for a belt keeper. I punched the holes in the holster before I stitched the main seam. One screw is down low, and the other one will just miss the cylinder inside the holster. I'm not sure that's enough to hold it securely

I wonder if there are better ways to accomplish this. Also, I'm wondering about the best way to attach a keeper strap around the body of the holster to the back flap. 

The 2nd holster down is the first one I made, and the keeper is fastened to the back with a couple of Chicago screws. I didn't make it a full flap, and consequently, it's not very stable when wearing it. I didn't plan it very well, so the keeper rides too low on the body of the holster. In the picture its not attached yet.

Funny thing about stitching; that first holster's stitching doesn't look too bad! So I guess that means I'm capable of doing it, but I haven't been able to dublicate it :P

Suggestions would be greatly appreciated. JD
 

The man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument.

Slowhand Bob

Jd,  if I am right, holster #1, the two belt keeper holes are through the skirt only and are not a problem, right?  The third hole down is punched through both skirt and holster to the inside, with head exposed just below the where the cylinder will rest???  It sounds like you have it placed properly BUT as additional protection for the guns finish I would use rivets in all places and inset them below the leathers surface by thinning around the punched holes slightly (small french skiver) and setting the rivets tightly to pull the heads down firmly.  Chicago screw heads are just to thick to protect against inside an unlined holster.  Chuck has a demo of which I speak in one of his videos, if memory serves me right.

Yes you could alleviate the whole problem by using a strap to hold the holster to the skirt as in the second version.  You can do both ends of the strap to one hole as you already have punched in the center line of the first holster or you could do two holes, one for each end of the strap.

The bottom holsters strap problem should be easy to correct in one of two ways.  Just pull the skirt higher until the strap is tight in its higher location which will add a slight bit of drop to the holster, if that is ok.  Otherwise you can just repunch the strap holes at a higher location on the skirt and move the strap up.  As you are probably finding out, there is a correlation between the various mounting points and how wide a belt will fit properly.  As belts become really high ride one tends to run out of room for the really wide belts! 

I hope I undersood your questions and you are able to understand my jibberish answers.  I will probably contact you tonight concerning the patterns you wanted.   

   

JD Alan

Thanks for the response Bob, you were just the guy I was hoping to hear from!

You are correct on the layout of the holes. I wasn't too sure about using rivets for two reasons. I've already punched pretty big holes, Chicago screw size. Second, I'm not too sure how to go about hammering down the rivets after I've already sewed the holster together. It must be possible, or you wouldn't have suggested it. I guess sliding a piece of metal into the body of the holster would work.

I've made this holster just for the experience, and didn't use a real good quality of leather. It's 8-9 oz, unlined, and pretty thin as far as I'm concerned. I like them heavier than that. 

I wouldn't mind more of a drop in the 2nd holster, but I have a belt keeper sewn on it. I could cut it off, and start over, but I'll probably leave it alone, since it was my first complete two gun rig.

Thanks for the advice Bob, I do appreciate it. I still need you to PM me a physical address for you.
     
The man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument.

Slowhand Bob

My info was sent last night and I am sorry it was so late in coming, thought you had it already.  Shux, them holes hidden down inside the holster dawnt count none so you could just change over to a strap style and use the chicago screw in the skirt for attaching the strap.  You are right about the anvil or metal inside the holster for setting rivets but try and obtain several pieces of clean shiny metal in various sizes and thicknesses without sharp edges.  Go for the metal with the largest footprint that will fit inside to help prevent leather distortion.  I can hear Sundays sermon now, 'the importance of you machine shop guys bringing your small metal scraps in for the preacher man'!  I still want one of those little home made I-beam anvils like Chuck made and featured in his video but based on my lazy ways, wantin is probably as close as I will git.

JD Alan

What would be really nice is to see the backside of some of the holsters featured here. I know you do it Bob, and Dalton regularly does as well, and I sure appreciate it. Using a keeper strap, I've seen some wrapped around the outside of the back flap, some on the inside, and some threaded through a cut in the back of the flap. With so many ways to do it, I'm wondering if one way is inherently better than another?.

 
The man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument.

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