leather for 1874-1875 half flap

[Black River Johnny]

I am thinking of making my own 1874-75 half flap holster like on page 24 of packing iron. I was wondering what type of leather to use. they mention on a page or two later that the hoslters were made of 8-9 oz leather. Does that mean I can use the veg tanned leather that i have and dye it black or are should I find bridle leather that is already black? I reallize I can do what ever I want but was just wondering if the leather i have would be fine. thanks

[Ace Lungger]

Howdy BRJ  ,
i would use your veg tanned leather, you will get a much nicer embossing. I can't wait to see it!
Later
ACE

[Black River Johnny]

Thanks. I'll be sure to post pics. I am not going to bother with the swivel on the belt loop though.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Like Ace said, the veg tan should work very well. If you want to dye it with historically correct coloring, read this thread:

http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,11991.0.html

Looking forward to seeing it when you're done.

[Trailrider]

Howdy, Pard,
I would recommend the use of 8-9 oz. veg-tanned cowhide for the holster body, and 7-8 oz. for the belt loop and flap.  So far as the color is concerned, the correct color is "black".  But how to get a color that is close to the originals, depends on how you want your holster (and other equipment) to look.  Do you want parade ground, just issued? Or, more likely a more worn look, typical of equipment that had seen considerable field use...without waiting for it to age naturally.

I have found, over the years, that a 50/50 mixture of Fiebing's Black (NOT USMC BLACK) and Fiebing's Tan alcohol-based dye does a good job of producing a new to near new color. I call this mixture "Faded Arsenal" in my catalog.  For a more worn look, increase the amount of tan in the mixture.  Because the "gubmint" made the dye manufacturers remove the toluene and xylene about 30 years ago, the carbon black in the black dye isn't very stable...it rubs off all over everything!  To avoid this, allow the leather to dry thoroughly and then brush it vigorously with a shoe brush.  You may need to re-dye the leather if too much black comes off to suit your tastes.  After brushing, apply BagKote (Tandy/Leather Factory doesn't carry it. They carry TanKote, which may work as well. Otherwise, order the BagKote directly from Fiebing's) to the leather and allow to dry.  If necessary reapply BagKote if the black continues to rub off on your hands.  Usually a single application, using an old sock or T-shirt will work fine.  I DO SUGGEST WEARING VINYL GLOVES TO KEEP THE BAGKOTE OFF YOUR HANDS.  The stuff probably won't hurt you, but may dry your skin.  I buy the vinyl gloves at the drugstore.  They work as well as latex, and you don't have to worry about becoming allergic to latex. 

Hope this helps.

[Black River Johnny]

This is awsome, thanks for the suggestions guys. the other thing I need to know since I have never seen one up close and in packing iron they dont have a good pic of the back is, how exactly does the flap get sewed on? it looks klike it gets sewed in with the belt loop. Also if you look close to all the different models it looks like the stiching comes up and turns in and is sewed into a rectangle, Is the holster really closed up this much? Thanks for any more help.

[Springfield Slim]

I've got a holster that is very similar if not the exact one. Here are a few pics. The Flap and the loop are riveted together in the back. The green stuff in the pics are rivets. And the sewn rectangle is not sewn through, it is a 1/2" by 2" piece of leather that is sewn to the front and back as a reinforcing gusset. I can take more pics if desired.

[Springfield Slim]

Front pic