Vests - What style/fit/material and why?

[Flinch Morningwood]

I have just finished making a vest from navy blue duck and the Buckaroo bobbins pattern...the pointed bottom and shawl (rounded) collar style.  I have been reading on-line that this probably isn't PC for my timeframe (early 1870's) in material and style.  The fit came out pretty form fitting but not tight...

I am correct in assuming this vest is in-correct for the time selected?  I have found some shawl collar photos from later than that as well as some "fancy" vests with shawl collars that date back to the 1840's...so I figured it was possible to have this style on a work vest....

What do you more-knoewledgable types think and what do you wear?

[French Jack]

Little Al:  Researching the period 1860 -70's, there is documentation to support the style of your vest, with the shawl collar and pointed front.  While not as numerous as the straight bottom vest, there are several period photos of the style you describe.  What I did not find was the use of duck, the majority are described as wool, both solids and checks, and cotton or linen, presumably for a work vest, and the use of silk as a very dressy vest. 

A good reference for your questions is:  "Dressed for the Photographer", Ordinary Americans & Fashion, 1840-1900, by Joan Severa.  There are examples described in great detail, and photographs of the attire, broken down into 10 year increments.

[Books OToole]

Pretty much what he (French Jack) said.

There is an 1850s painting, Canvassing for the Vote, by Bingham.  One of the men has a pointed hemmed vest.

In The Age of the Gunfighter, by Rosa, is an 1883 photograph of Dallas Studemier (or one of cohorts) with a pointed vest.


The rounded or shawl, collared/lapel goes for ever. [Pretty much.]

Your material is a little iffy.

Books

[Montana Slim]

I'd say the pointed vest would be somewhat rare in the 1860-1870 period, but existed in some aristocratic-type menswear, rather than common-folk, buisnessmen, etc.

My wife's been making my duds for many years....never seen fit to use denim or duck for a vest...according to Mrs. "Slim", wool, linen & tapestry fabric costs no more, look better, and are guaranteed accurate for our entire NCOWS time period.... so why not go with the best? She uses several of the Buckaroo Bobbins patterns (among others) and has extensively modified based on my meager input and drastically changing physical dimensions. Hopefully I'll have something to wear for the NATs.

Regards,
Slim