Taylors Henry ???

[1860]

Hi,

My choices were a Schofield or a Henry, seems the revolver does not like BP all that much so I'm looking at one of these:

http://www.taylorsfirearms.com/products/cfHenry.tpl

I can get a new one for 995.00 plus shipping and all the other stuff and for a Taylors that is a good price.  

I thinking about the Civilian blued model only because I think the strap and swivel on the stock might get in my way when shooting, Does it?

Do they all have the trap door in the stock?

How are these guns in general, fit, finish, function?  Known issues?

Just how hot do they get when using BP, especially in the summer?

My buddy is a pretty good engraver so If I get a good shooter, it's going to him for Half a year..LOL..  He does nice work but he has a real job and little time...

Thanks
60

[Ransom Gaer]

All Henries are built by Uberti including Taylor's.  And all are pretty much the same.  I bought mine at Sportsman's Warehouse and it is a Civilian Model.  I don't know if all of them have the trapdoor in the stock, but the civilian version does.  I love mine. 

Fit and finish is very good in my opinion.  If you are familiar with either the 1866 or 1873 Winchester, the Henry functions just like them.  Like them the Hnery is a toggle link design.  Tend to be very smooth.  Biggest issue with a Henry is the follower in the magazine tube.  You either need to learn the Henry Hop or make a spacer stick to go between the magazine follower and last cartridge loaded.  You don't want the follower to hang up on your hand which causes feed issues and also keeps the follower from snapping against the last cartridge. I use a spacer stick.   If there is a high primer on a cartridge there is the remote possibility of a detonation in the magazine if the follower snaps.  Also never let the follower snap in to place when you load the magazine, for the same reason.

The Henry rifle and BP are made for each other.   Mine has never had a smokeyless round shot through it and never will as long as I own it.   A quick recommendation before I go too much further.  When you get your rifle and if you are going to shoot BP in it, I would recommend getting it in .44-40 and not .45 lc.  If I had mine to do over again, that is what I would do.  Another suggestion is to use Big Lube bullets in it regardless of caliber.  I have started using Big Lube bullets in mine and it is noticably cleaner.  The . 44-40 is the cleaner of the two cartridges in comparison to .45 lc.  I get my Big Lube bullets from Springfield Slim.

Regarding the barrel getting hot shooting BP through the barrel in the summer.  In a word, it gets REALLY HOT.  But I figure the style points make it all worth it.

Ransom Gaer

[litl rooster]

Hi,

My choices were a Schofield or a Henry, seems the revolver does not like BP all that much so I'm looking at one of these:

http://www.taylorsfirearms.com/products/cfHenry.tpl

I can get a new one for 995.00 plus shipping and all the other stuff and for a Taylors that is a good price.  

I thinking about the Civilian blued model only because I think the strap and swivel on the stock might get in my way when shooting, Does it?

Do they all have the trap door in the stock?

How are these guns in general, fit, finish, function?  Known issues?

Just how hot do they get when using BP, especially in the summer?

My buddy is a pretty good engraver so If I get a good shooter, it's going to him for Half a year..LOL..  He does nice work but he has a real job and little time...

Thanks
60

A.   HOT

[litl rooster]

here's a steal on a used one


http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,16572.1680.html




2nd post

[Major 2]

It's my main gun , in fact both are... my older Brass Frame has been for 11 years
The later (traded for) steel frame joined the fray 3 years ago.

I sometimes use spacer stick, and sometimes just the Henry Hop, Yes they get warm here in Florida. But not 1st. degree warm and cool between stages..tinder hands might use a glove.

I've owned 3 Herry's one back in 1980-89...and now these, The 1996 (Brass Frame) & the 06 (Steel Frame).

The first Brass Frame Circa 1980 was a Civilian Model and no Trap on the butt ( I added the swivel, staple & sling  for CW reenacting ) No issues with the swivel less strap in live shoothing.

The second 1996 Rifle is a Military Model with the Trap in the butt...The Steel Frame has no Trap and the rounded steel
butt is more comfortable than the sharper profile cresent butt ofthe Brass Frames.

The Steel frame is a Taylor ( 96 Brass Frame has no importer marks ) the 1980 was an Allen Arms.
Uberti's all and fine guns...do it !

And that is a good price litl Rooster linked you to

[1860]

Thanks to all,

Esp. on that link Lil Rooster, I told him I'll take it, waiting on his response...

My main revolvers are Open tops so a Henry goes right along with it and I only shoot BP so 44-40 is the way to go.  I do have a 73 in 45 and it gets filthy after a day at the range, but it's a shooter so I live with it.  Been using slims bullets since he started, top knotch stuff from a top pard.  I'm very familiar with winchesters and how they work but I'm only guessing that the spacer stick is too keep the follower away from your hand on the last couple of rounds..correct?  If so, doesn't it lock up the action as well when it goes into the lifter?

Boy, I how this deal goes through, that'l leave me a little seen money for some other itch that needs scratching...LOL

60

[Ransom Gaer]

60,

Under normal circumstances yea the spacer stick would lock up the carrier, but mine and I'm sure everyone elses sticks have either a small straight nail or u nail pounded into them about 3/8 to 1/2" from one end and sticking up enough that it stops the stick from going all the way into the carrier.  Mine is about 7/16" from one end.  Also the nail makes it a little easier to get the stick out 'cause you can grab the nail and pull it out.  My spacer stick is about 3 cartridges(.45 Schofield) long and made with 1/2" dowel.  Some make them about 4 cartridges long also.

Ransom Gaer

[Major 2]

I make mine from  1/2" faux Ivory dowel with a brass screw the head has been file off

This photo is one made from Maple Dowel

[Major 2]

another view

[1860]

AH-HA...I get it, what a good idea, I love little fixes like that...Thanks!

Looks like all I'll need is a little stick and a welders glove to hold onto the barrel and I'm all set...LOL

Thanks
60

[Major 2]

Photos and idea courtesy of Driftwood Johnson

he used holllow brass pin ( I use a brass screw then cut & file the head off )

I made a few gratis for folks here...they can very in length  44/40 & 45 LC will be different.
I load ten and measure the remaining space and back off 1/2".

[Driftwood Johnson]

Hey! That's my stick. And my Henry!

The stick ain't that clean looking anymore after a couple of years of use with Black Powder rounds. And I drew a little arrow on it so I would know which way to insert it. One day I was blabbing at the loading table and not paying enough attention when I added the stick. It jammed up the rifle after the last round.

On a hot summer day, particularly if it is sunny, ten BP rounds make my barrel too hot to handle. Same thing with my shotgun after about six rounds. I keep a pair of thin leather gloves in my cart for such occaisions, no need for welder's gloves, thin leather gloves are all you need. I just wear the glove on my left hand, I keep my trigger hand nekkid. I get a lot of Michael Jackson wisecracks.

On a cold day, ten BP rounds makes the barrel into a good handwarmer.

[Major 2]

Exactly, DJ I saved the photo...I use a lenght of Faux Ivory rod and brass screw
I once elaborated on your idea with two pins one at each end ..solved the Reverseing issue.
But decided your single pin idea and a little paying attention on my part was fine. 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Actually, I don't think my stick is maple. I made it from a 1/2" hardwood dowel and they are usually birch.

[Russ McCrae]

Either way that's a trick worth having, I can see where the hop would be hard to remember