Ruger NMV cylinder "catch"

[Doc H]

Have a NMV that occasionally "catches" when cocking - hammer won't pull back, cylinder won't turn.  Usually relaxing pressure on the hammer and re-cocking works and the cylinder turns normally, or you can just pull back harder and it "gives" and the cylinder turns; happens infrequently but doesn't feel normal.  Nothing binding as far as I can tell.  New pistol - less than 200 rounds; any ideas appreciated - thanks!

[Pettifogger]

Sounds like the transfer bar is hitting the bottom of the firing pin instead of going over it.  Make sure your base pin is all the way in and check to see if the plunger in the end of the base pin is sticking.  The plunger pushes the transfer bar back so it doesn't snag on the firing pin.

[Doc H]

Good thought, but nope, checked that; base pin and plunger are operating normally.  It catches way before the transfer bar starts to move significantly, just as I start to thumb back.  Can't see too much inside the action to see what's catching 'cause the hammer isn't pulled back very far, but almost feels like a metal bur somewhere, nothing external I can see.  Bolt doesn't look like it's hanging up on anything.  Haven't completely dissassembled to look, but that might be next...

[Pettifogger]

Another thing that can cause this is that the bolt isn't retracting fast enough and the hand is pushing the cylinder but it can't turn because the bolt is still up.  Pull the hammer and check the bolt actuating plunger that is in the bottom of the hammer.  They can get burred or bent and can stick.

[Skinny Preacher 66418]

Sounds like the transfer bar is hitting the bottom of the firing pin instead of going over it.  Make sure your base pin is all the way in and check to see if the plunger in the end of the base pin is sticking.  The plunger pushes the transfer bar back so it doesn't snag on the firing pin.

To see if this is the case, point the barrel to the ceiling and try to cock. Did that cure it? Then the base pin spring may have not been pushing the transfer bar back from the firing pin.

[rep1954]

Also the second step on the pawl may not be timed right. It could be possiable that it needs metal removed from it yet. Lots of guns dont use a second step but the Ruger dose. If there is to much stock there it can cause the cylinder to want to jam. I'm sure it is real close and with a small file and a stone would be easy to take care of.

[Doc H]

Found the problem awhile back when the transfer bar broke in half; called Ruger and they sent a new one.  So far, so good, but not happy replacing this part in a new gun....