Throwing Knives

[Angel_Eyes]

I dont know if this subject is relevant but:-
Does anyone have measurements or diagrams for shape and dimensions for the "perfect" throwing knife?
Were they thrown by holding the handle or the tip of the blade or is that down to the user?

AE (who used to throw his Bowie all over the place)

[St. George]

This is one of those questions that probably should be over in the 'Shooter's Meeting' forum, since it has nothing to do with period cutlery and more to do with the use of a knife for entertainment value.

If you do some looking, you'll find a copy of Harry McEvoy's 'Knife Throwing - A Practical Guide'.

In it, McEvoy discusses shapes, distances and throwing techniques.

These are knives specifically built for the game of knife throwing, and even for hunting 'with' a throwing knife.

Good Luck!

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[Delmonico]

I may have the pattern for them in one of my books, I'll have to do some digging and see if I can find it and scan it.

[Professor Marvel]

Greetings Amigos -

"The perfect design for a throwing knife" is a topic of much heated debate amongst this variety of Knife affecianados. As amazing as it may seem, there are Naysayers with only booklearning who often contend that "the knife, being an unaerodynamic shape, and tumbling uncontrollably, cannot be thrown effectively or consistantly." These individuals it would seem have never been to a circus, carnival, Rondesvous, or watched Ed Sullivan and Johny Carson. The identical comment by the way was made in a scholarly tome devoted to Daniel Boone, claiming that the tomahawk cannot be accurately thrown. If I recall correctly the *only* thing that author got correct was Boone's political career, which had been well documented.

There are a variety of "proven" patterns about which mostly have a tendencay to be a tad more "tip heavy" whilst some attempt to achieve the elusive so-called "perfect balance". Typically these are not at all traditional, rather 20th century design of a somewhat point heavy triangular pattern, or a "leaf pattern" such as those seen here:
http://tinyurl.com/bljyzm


This one was the old standard of Rondyvoo'ers for many many years, originally only available through Dixie:
http://tinyurl.com/bckkdg


Many of the Rondy crowd prefer an 8-12" butcher pattern. Thrown by either the tip or the handle, I have won a few "blanket throws" with these. Once your are used to it, your hold on the knife, force of throw, amount of  spin, etc will change at will depending upon the target, distance, and type of knife. One fellow even prefers the cheap Steakhouse Knives.

I recall sitting in the shop of a friend who made knives of any size, shape, or purpose. A young man came in wanting him to quote a price to make a set of "perfectly balanced throwing knives". The Knife Smith asked "OK, what shape, what kind of handle, and what do you want them to look like?"   

The Kid said "what are you talking about, there's only one design for perfectly balanced throwers!!!"

The Smith grabbed a handful of screwdrivers, woodchisels, files, and carving knives from his bench and sunk them all, pointy end first,  in a target on the wall across the room. Then he said " So what do ya want em to look like?"

yhs
Prof Marvel

[Angel_Eyes]

Thanks guy's, the replies are much like I expected.

Basically, suck it and see!!

I will now repair to my garage and start cutting metal.

One thing has become clear from other post photo's, an indestructible leather handle is a must, don't want bits of horn or bone ricocheting all over the place!!

Thanks again, AE

[St. George]

The stacked leather washers didn't come along until the turn of the century - not that this'll matter, since you're not looking to make anything from the era.

I have a couple of the 'Olson Pro-Throwers' that McEvoy sold at the time - they feature slab scales of linen Micarta and exposed metal at the butt, so that the handles don't break.

Their steel is somewhat malleable, so breaking a blade isn't an issue, since they can be hammered back straight and dressed off, should something unduly hard be struck.

The throwing knives made by Randall are all-metal construction.

As indicated above - you can throw anything, so long as you know the distance and hold the blade accordingly.

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[Angel_Eyes]

Thanks St. George, that bit about the malleable metal is very informative, means I can go without having to bother about heat treatment, and I was just thinking about a slab of leather either side of the tang, rather than stacked leather washers.
Thanks for your input, AE.

[Sir Charles deMouton-Black]

My thowers are either chainsaw bars, or VW beetle torsion plates.  Shaped with an angle grinder and leather glued and riveted handles.  Length should be the same as your 'hawk so the "turns' are same or at least similar.  Elbow to fist-nuckel, about 16 inches for me.  Three long steps for a HALF TURN. thrown with the hawk blade pointing back, and the knife held by the point.  A FULL TURN is 5 to 6 long steps withe the hawk blade towards the target and the knife held by the handle.

A long easy overhand throw is required, and LOTS of practice.

[The Elderly Kid]

Many years ago I read about how an aspiring carnival knife-thrower learned the craft from an old pro:
First, acquire a good set of throwing knives.
Second, throw them at a wood slab target until you can stick them every time at one-half turn, then a full turn.
Third, start backing off one pace at a time and practice until you can stick them every time.
Fourth, when you reach a decent stage distance, usually twelve to fifteen feet, and can make them stick every time, stand someone aganist the target and draw a chalk outline around them. Practice until you can stick your knives in the chalk outline. No cheating, the chalk has to show on both sides of the point or it doesn't count. When you can do that every last time, you're ready for a carny knife-throwing act.
He had one last piece of advice for the young man. "Then, all that's left to do is marry a very trusting woman."

[Delmonico]

Angel Eyes, I searched all my books last night and can't find that pattern.  Sorry, I know I had one.

[Professor Marvel]

Greetings -

I have since migrated completely to generic High Carbon Butcher knives as exemplified by the Old Hickory (which show "hammer marks, and is not historically correct)
here: http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=OH78

and this one, which is smoothly ground.
http://www.instawares.com/dexter-russell-04551-10.dex-01210bu.0.7.htm

These designs have has been around since hector was a pup, and are generally acceptable everywhere, they are mentioned in numerous 19th century catalogs, & etc.

However since you are looking for a pattern, you might try these simple things (the attached graphic appears as a black box to me until clicked)  which have served me well.

I usually forged mine out of old leaf spring, and did not harden nor temper, then refined the shapes with a belt grinder. One of the joys of forging is that one can easily taper the thickness of the blade to make it more blade heavy or handle heavy, without wearing out ones grinder or patience.

Don't make the edges too sharp, and keep the point a tad rounded rather than needle-like. Needle Like may stick well but also seems to puncture the palm.  We are after all making toys, not assasination daggers :-)   Don't forget, they can bounce quite dramatically.

[Dr. Bob]

Howdy Angel Eyes,

Butcher knives made by I. Wilson and other makers in Sheffield were imported in great numbers for the fur trade and civilian use at least as early as 1750.  The were available in almost any general store and hardware store in every town and city.  You should be able to find some fine period examples there in Jolly Old England [I know, it's the UK now]!!   The old carbon steel ones are getting real hard to find here in Kansas City!

[Sir Charles deMouton-Black]

Here are some 'hawks from TRACK OF THE WOLF.

http://www.trackofthewolf.com/(S(xwt3su55auozfbbbayrgty55))/categories/partList.aspx?catID=9&subId=60&styleId=233

[ChuckBurrows]

The old carbon steel ones are getting real hard to find here in Kansas City!

But not hard to find online - 1075/1080 is the closest modern equivalent to 1750 to late 1800' steel available based on real world testing of original steel..............
http://www.admiralsteel.com/shop/hr1075.html