C and B Revolver Loading Preferances

[Dalton Masterson]

I was always taught sprue up, but have read somewhere, and it makes sense, to go sprue down. That way you have a more uniform and ballistically efficient projectile, for a round ball anyway.
Either way, up or down is better than sideways. I am convinced that is why I had the chainfire.
DM

[Sod Buster]

I was always taught to load muzzle-loading rifles with the sprue facing up.  I have followed the same proceedure with my C&B revolvers.

[Mako]

Whenever accuracy tests on deformed bullets are done the results show that deformations of the BASE of the bullet more readily affect accuracy than deformations of the tip of the bullet. The test I have seen involved jacketed bullets with filing or gouging being done to one end or the other of the bullet

Hellgate,
While this is true with flat or beveled base bullets, the "base" of a ball isn't anywhere near the interface of the rifling to the ball or the gas halo of the pressure wave as the ball exits the barrel.

I believe we will have to defer to the round ball rifle shooters to shed any light for us.  But since most shoot patched balls it still isn't a perfect analog for a C&B pistol. They would notice any degradation in accuracy long before we would.

I like you use a lubricated wad so I am not picky when I use cast balls.  If there is anyone out there who can tell a difference at CAS ranges with the size targets we have then he, or she is a better Pistolero(a) than I.

Regards,
Mako

[Leo Tanner]

Just though I'd drop back in here ta say I've fired the gun several times since receiving it on Christmas and found tecniques that work well fer me.  Thank you for all the input.  It was very helpful and I've had a great time at the range with it.  C&B shooting is a whole new world and my Vaquero is now jelous of all the time I give to the 51

Been shooting C&B exclusive for 10yrs. I use a dental irrigation syringe filled with my lube mix to put lube over the ball after loading.  Keeps the fouling soft and sparks can't get past it.  Can send the link to where you can get them via email.

CC, a relative was visiting the other night and was talking about some recent dental work.  She mentioned off hand that the dentist had given her some of those syringes.  I mentioned I might have a use for one and she brought it to me the next day.  I tried it out, and I'll tell you what, after snipping a bit off the tip to get the right flow I found it to be an invaluable addition to my gun bag.  Great tip!  It'd be neat to find an old style metal one to be more PC, but in the mean time, the one she gave me works great--a whole afternoon of shooting an not so much as a smidge of lube on my hands.  It's faster too

[Bad Ramon]

Back in the late 70's and early 80's I used to shoot a 58' Remington and a 60' army quite a bit. Used to shoot Highpower in May and June and close down during July and August so everyone could go to Perry for the Nationals. During these two months I would fool with my C&B revolvers. Back then the only way was with round balls and Crisco over the front of the cylinder for a real messy afternoon of shooting. In a Lyman manuel of the time there was data for a hollow-based conical bullet called 450229. I bought one of these moulds and started producing bullets. Out of pure lead these bullets weighed about 166 grs. I made a sizer for them that would size the bottom band and leave the two top bands unsized. There wasn't anySPG back then,so I used Alox. I used the 30 gr. spout that came with the .44 flask and it thru about 23.5 to 23.7 grs. of pistol grade Pyrodex. I had heard that the best caps back then to get this sub burning was the RWS hot cap. Wowwwwwwwwwww......! With these bullets fairley well compressed on top of that Pyrodex I was getting 1085 to 1115 fps. I wish I would have had the good sense at the time to try and work out a sensible light load. The flash from this load would burn the hairs on the bottom of my hand! At one time I was shooting from a rest with a bunch of shop rags under the gun and it caught these on fire in about 4 shots.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   It's a shame really that there is not any data today that details loading hollow-based conical bullets. I read years ago that there were these types of bullets loaded in the original paper cartridges during the cival war..........................

[Leo Tanner]

I met a feller here who loads them paper cartriges.  It's my fault that I haven't called him yet he is very knowlegable on the subject.  It seems ta be a very PC way ta go.  Think I'll pick up the phone tommorow.

[Steel Horse Bailey]

CC, a relative was visiting the other night and was talking about some recent dental work.  She mentioned off hand that the dentist had given her some of those syringes.  I mentioned I might have a use for one and she brought it to me the next day.  I tried it out, and I'll tell you what, after snipping a bit off the tip to get the right flow I found it to be an invaluable addition to my gun bag.  Great tip!  It'd be neat to find an old style metal one to be more PC, but in the mean time, the one she gave me works great--a whole afternoon of shooting an not so much as a smidge of lube on my hands.  It's faster too

Howdy again, Leo!

Looky here:

http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?products_id=8096

I have been using one for about a decade.  I can heat my lube and pour it in to fill the luber.  Works great.  Unfortunately, the cost of materials has nearly doubled it since I bought mine.  Be sure and read the review.  My lube is made from Olive Oil and Beeswax ... and turns green where it contacts the brass ... but still works fine.  I've also had no trouble with the rubber deteriorating - perhaps because when I come back from a shoot I re-fill it.  I keep it ready for use all the time.  If used sparingly I bet I could go 6 or 7 stages.   (normally, our club has 6 stages at monthly matches.  At the 2008 NCOWS National shoot we shot 6 stages one day and the last 4 the next.  I re-filled it the evening after day 1.  (My lube is soft, so I can re-fill it with a small spatula about 6" long my wife got when she was a Pampered Chef rep.)  Only problem I've ever had was when I lost the brass screw plug for the spout end.  A gold colored machine screw now takes its place.

[Leo Tanner]

Thanks fer the link and additional info Steel.   That one looks like it'll last ferever and fits in nicely with the other gear.   

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Thanks fer the link and additional info Steel.   That one looks like it'll last ferever and fits in nicely with the other gear.   

Yep!

That's why I bought one and use it faithfully.

[Angel_Eyes]

Back to the sprue question:-  If you put the sprue towards the powder, you cannot tell if it is centrally placed which could give an oblique plane for the gases to work against, giving a possible deviation in flight.
I'm a sprue up, man!
I also Alox lube my balls after rolling them in a steel cylindrical tin, which reduces the sprue to virtually nothing.

Angel Eyes

[Leo Tanner]

Back to the sprue question:-  If you put the sprue towards the powder, you cannot tell if it is centrally placed which could give an oblique plane for the gases to work against, giving a possible deviation in flight.
I'm a sprue up, man!
I also Alox lube my balls after rolling them in a steel cylindrical tin, which reduces the sprue to virtually nothing.

Angel Eyes

That sonds like something ta try.  After payin a little attention, any argument against sprue up seems out the window especially with soft lead.  The rammer does a number on the ball anyway, so may as well let it do it's work on the sprue.