Transfer bar butts against the firing pin?

[jimmyb.1]

I have two nm blackhawks in .38's.  I've had the transfer bar butt against the firing pin when I've pulled the hammer back.  It acts just like a high primer would.  This has happened twice to me and both times I thought it was just that, a high primer.  I spin the cylinders at the loading table to ensure no high primers so I really was determined to figure it out.  If I then tilt the gun down the firing pin slides forward allowing the bar to travel upwards.  These guns probably don't have more than 3K rounds through them, all .38's so I wouldn't think it's wear.  It's not a big deal - just annoying and it costs me a second although it feels like a minute at the time.  Not sure if it was the same gun twice or once per gun at the matches.  I just put whichever pistol in whatever holster. 
jb


Edit:  You guys called it.  I cleaned up the base pin and the hole it goes through but both appeared very clean along w/ the back side of the transfer bar.  The base pin latch screw already had lock tight on it but it could have let the base pin slide up.  Anyway, I just did a shoot and both guns worked fine.  I now spend a bit more time cleaning the base pin components.

[JL McGillicuddy]

I ran into a touch of the same trouble with my OM Vaqs.  The usual cause is the base pin isn't pushing back on the transfer bar like it should.  There are two possible reasons for that to be happening.

First, (the one I was having trouble with) is that the base pin is getting backed out a touch.  Wolff gunsprings makes a stronger base pin latch spring that will help.  The other way to address that one is switch out your base pins to Belt Mountain pins.  The springs are cheap, so you may want to start there.  The other thing you can do to help eliminate that issue is double check your base pins at the loading table before the stage each time.  That is now part of my loading ritual.  I press the base pin in firmly to make sure that it is all the way seated.

The second possible cause is the pin on the end of the base pin or the spot it is supposed to pass through being dirty.  Make sure that the pin on the end of the base pin moves freely when you have the gun down for cleaning.  If not, make sure you lube it.  If it moves freely, make sure that the pass through hole ('scuse my lack of technical terminology) is cleaned up well so that it isn't inhibiting the pin's movement.

Hope this is some help to you!
Jack Lee

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

I ran into a touch of the same trouble with my OM Vaqs.  The usual cause is the base pin isn't pushing back on the transfer bar like it should.  There are two possible reasons for that to be happening.

First, (the one I was having trouble with) is that the base pin is getting backed out a touch.  Wolff gunsprings makes a stronger base pin latch spring that will help.  The other way to address that one is switch out your base pins to Belt Mountain pins.  The springs are cheap, so you may want to start there.  The other thing you can do to help eliminate that issue is double check your base pins at the loading table before the stage each time.  That is now part of my loading ritual.  I press the base pin in firmly to make sure that it is all the way seated.

The second possible cause is the pin on the end of the base pin or the spot it is supposed to pass through being dirty.  Make sure that the pin on the end of the base pin moves freely when you have the gun down for cleaning.  If not, make sure you lube it.  If it moves freely, make sure that the pass through hole ('scuse my lack of technical terminology) is cleaned up well so that it isn't inhibiting the pin's movement.

Hope this is some help to you!
Jack Lee

     Howdy Gents

         jimmyb.1 I agree with what McGillicuddy said, one thing you might want to also do is degrease your base pin latch screw, and add a drop of BLUE Loc-tight, these screws have a tendency to loosen up, and if they do , the base pin can jump forward, if that happens you could have the problem we're talking about, if you use the Loc-tight only use the BLUE, IT'S REMOVABLE, THE RED ISN'T.....


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