Win 97 Mods?

Started by Micheal Fortune, October 27, 2004, 06:03:27 PM

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Micheal Fortune

Yesterday I picked up a Winchester 97 12ga.  30in barrel.  SN/54996. Above the SN is a C

Quick note, SN was wrong, it's 54496, C and has the three screws on the forearm.

She is in fairly good condition and as I bought her for CAS I plan on modifying her in the next few days and would like to get all of your opinions before I grab the hacksaw.

I am going to be doing the work myself and while I am fairly competent I don't have a lathe, milling machine and so on.  I do have a drill press and a air dye grinder, polisher.  And I don't plan on ordering any parts.  She is going to have to work "as is" with what ever tinkering I can do.

1. Barrel length I'm favoring 20 inches, what do you think?

2. It has a recoil pad and the stock is long, I could take the recoil pad off but what the heck would I do for a butt plate?

3. Are there any known problems with pulling one apart, (like yep, I always break that little spring every time)

4. Besides a general cleaning and polishing what would you suggest? Details would be great!

5. What are the favorite modifications for this shotgun?

6. Is that brass bead threaded on or soldered on?

7 Anyone got any idea how old my new baby is?

Thanks in advance!
Saloon Keeper, Gambler, Shootist
Sun River Rangers Shooting Society / SASS 60159 / R.O.-1 / SBSS 1685 / G.O.F.W.G. 89 / RATS 58 / KGC 4 /

Klondike

Mike, if the number you posted is correct, you have a C model three screw(referring to the three screws on the forearm), dated 1897-1898. The biggest problem with 97's are the ejectors, usually the left one, it is notorious for breaking. The biggest problem with the three screw is the forearm splintering around the screw holes.  A good cleaning and light polishing should give you a serviceable shotgun. It is generally not recommended to shoot anything hotter than Winchester AA Featherlights in these old guns.

Silver Creek Slim

According to this site: http://armscollectors.com/sn/windates.htm , it was made in 1898.

Slim
NCOWS 2329, WartHog, SCORRS, SBSS, BHR, GAF, RBCS, Dirty RATS, BTBM, IPSAC, Cosie-in-training
I love the smell of Black Powder in the morning!

Big Hext Finnigan

Howdy,

Just as a thought.  I've got two 97s, both cut down to 20 inches, but it I were going to cut one down now, I think I'd go 24 inches or maybe 26, but I think 24.. The more I look at it, the more I like it.

Also, as I've been shooting, I really think a midrange barrel doesn't hurt handling characteristics at all.  None of my bird guns have shorter barrels than 24 inches.

Just a little noodling.. Adios,

Micheal Fortune

Well I been doing some checking around and yes indeed Klondike, I have a genuine 1898 firearm, which puts it in the antique catagory (anything made before Jan 1, 1899) which should make me happy as I only paid $329.00 for it and it should be worth more, But being it is a keeper I can't cut it up for CAS and I still want a shooter!

Anyone live close and want to trade???

Two steps forward and three steps back..................... :(
Saloon Keeper, Gambler, Shootist
Sun River Rangers Shooting Society / SASS 60159 / R.O.-1 / SBSS 1685 / G.O.F.W.G. 89 / RATS 58 / KGC 4 /

Doc Shapiro

I cut down my 1898 gun.  Didn't figure it had any collector value.  Just look at what you paid for yours.  I also replaced the bar ejector with a modern spring type, action work, springs, choke tubes, etc.  Works great.

Doc

Micheal Fortune

Thanks Doc,

I really want to shoot it.  Have you been on the inside, just give it a good cleaning and stone off any rough edges?

Anything special to look for?

Thanks
Saloon Keeper, Gambler, Shootist
Sun River Rangers Shooting Society / SASS 60159 / R.O.-1 / SBSS 1685 / G.O.F.W.G. 89 / RATS 58 / KGC 4 /

Doc Shapiro

That would be the basics.  You could also back out the screw that tensions the mainspring.  That'll make it easier to work the action.

It will also likely need the chamber lengthened for 2 3/4 inch shells, or you could load and shoot shorties, just trim 'em down to 2 1/2 inches and roll crimp.

Doc

Hemlock Mike

I have an old 30" full choke Mod 97.  I asked my gunsmith friend about cutting the barrel to 26".... He about died !!!    I got a used 26" barrell off the internet and he changed it for me for $10. 

I like it...  Cylinder bore and 26"  !!! 

Mike

Micheal Fortune

Well haven't started work on her yet but took her out and shot a couple of rounds of trap today, I'm not a great trap shooter, just as something to do a couple of time a month.  Usually score somewhere between 20 and 24.

First round was a 16!  Yikes!  Not used to that full choke and long barrel.  Settled down for the next round and shot a 23!  No failure to feed or eject problems, no hang ups at all,  she shoots great!

The stock is still too long, might dig up a metal butt plate for her and maybe wait a while on the barrel, try to find a used one to put on like Hemlock said.  maybe, maybe not........... the best I could find online is $107, and the hacksaw is already paid for.

Doc I did measure the chamber, where it starts to taper into the forcing cone is 2 1/2 inches but those 2 3/4 inch trap loads shoot just fine in it and I don't ever plan on shooting anything heavier.

Thanks everyone for you help.  If you think of anything else I should do just let me know.
Saloon Keeper, Gambler, Shootist
Sun River Rangers Shooting Society / SASS 60159 / R.O.-1 / SBSS 1685 / G.O.F.W.G. 89 / RATS 58 / KGC 4 /

Micheal Fortune

Well here is the before and after pictures.  Tore her all the way down, cleaned her up, stoned off any rough areas, cut the barrel to 20 inches, took off the recoil pad and cut a piece of leather for a butt pad, at least until I can get a metal one ordered.
Saloon Keeper, Gambler, Shootist
Sun River Rangers Shooting Society / SASS 60159 / R.O.-1 / SBSS 1685 / G.O.F.W.G. 89 / RATS 58 / KGC 4 /

Big Hext Finnigan

Nice job... Can't see all the details, but the overal look is a good one.

Marauder

Have you reduced the hammer spring?

97's have a notoriously strong hammer spring - the problem is that it results in much faster wear of the hammer, bolt and frame.  You can "hour'glass" shape them as you would a Colt SAS hammer spring.  Of course you don't want to go too far or it won't fire relipably.  There is also a hammer spring tenstion screw that you can use to slightly reduce the tension, but you generally have to hour-glass the spring a little as well.  Then I reduce the tension ont he spring.  If I need more spring, then I can use the tension screw.

The most common failure is the ejector spring on the left side.  The next failure point is the left hand cartridge guide, then the right hand guide (extractor.)

fred fearnot

Michael, when you measured the length of the camber did you have the barrel off of the receiver?  I presume this is a take down model.  You have to allow for the chamber ring that is in the receiver. It is about a 1/4 thick.   Most 97 have 2 3/4 chambers, they don't always measure that way as they have a slight tapper to the chamber and some chamber gauges will give a false reading. I do agree that stay with lite loads, 1 oz. at about 1145 fps will do. One question you had, the front bead is screwed into the barrel.  Fred Fearnot  SASS#2615
.

Micheal Fortune

Thanks for the input Fred Fearnot.  Got everything worked out, she has been to three matches now and is shooting as strong as ever. 

Yes the barrel was off when I made the measurement.  I know I can get another beaded sight from gun parts, anyone know the drill and tap size?
Saloon Keeper, Gambler, Shootist
Sun River Rangers Shooting Society / SASS 60159 / R.O.-1 / SBSS 1685 / G.O.F.W.G. 89 / RATS 58 / KGC 4 /

Laredo Crockett

If you don't want to cut it Gun Parts corp used to have 20 in. riot barrels for sale. If you cut it you might want to try longer than 20 in first-maybe 24 or 26 in.

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