~First Problem with Richards Transition Model~

Sgt. Eli · December 13, 2007, 05:48:21 PM

I had a misfire on the last stage a week ago, first time in probabably 300 rounds, after scratchin' my head awhile and wonderin' whuts up I discovered the conversion ring was loose and would turn ever so slightly. If it turned toward the loading gate there is a small piece of metal on the conversion ring that will keep the hammer from falling all the way. At this point I'm not sure if this a burr on the ring or something that is supposed to be there.

Pettifogger · December 13, 2007, 06:39:26 PM

Boy that's a pain. The base pin holds on the ring on the Ubertis. That could be a pain to fix. Are you planning on sending it back? I looked at mine. They are both tight. However, if they come loose I think I have a relatively easy fix I will try.

Sgt. Eli · December 13, 2007, 08:31:18 PM

No....I have only sent one gun back in my life and it was such a pain that I deal with them on my own now. I am considering drilling and tapping for a screw or maybe just pinning it.

Fox Creek Kid · December 14, 2007, 12:36:35 AM

Sgt. Eli, PM sent.

Pettifogger · December 14, 2007, 12:48:57 AM

Quote from: Sgt. Eli on December 13, 2007, 08:31:18 PM
No....I have only sent one gun back in my life and it was such a pain that I deal with them on my own now. I am considering drilling and tapping for a screw or maybe just pinning it.

That's what I would do. The R&Ds are screwed on. Since removing the base pin is a bit of a job I would make a block to fit in the hammer channel to keep the conversion ring centered and then drill a hole and tap in a roll pin. The base pin will take care of fore and aft movement. All the roll pin would have to do is keep it from rotating.

will52100 · December 21, 2007, 11:59:05 PM

Just out of curiosity is the arbor loose? There should be zero play in it. I agree that it's a pain to send a gun back for repair, especialy to cimmeron. If the arbor had the slightest bit of looseness I would drill out the locking pin for the arbor, remove the arbor and lightly pien the arbor's shoulder and then re-asemble to test fit, if everything fit good and tight I'd lock tight that sucker and put a new lock pin between the arbor and frame. Piening the arbor shoulder would tighten up the conversion plate, but I'd probably put a small locator pin in it also.

Fox Creek Kid · December 22, 2007, 12:15:18 AM

Will, you're right, however that's about $200 - $300 for a gunsmith to do this & there aren't many who fiddle with these type guns. Send it back to Cimarron is what I'd do. They've already replaced one of mine & I sent another back today.

will52100 · December 22, 2007, 10:49:08 AM

I agree that Cimmeron should fix it, but after spending 8 or 9 months going back and forth with them on a gun that had endshak issues so bad that it would lock everything up tight I wound up fixing it myself after they told me they fixed it and didn't do anything. I will no buy anouther cimmeron, nor try to send the ones I've got back too them. One thing about these guns is that you need the ability to do simple repairs yourself. Fixing the arbor is a fairly simple fix.

Flint · December 23, 2007, 02:57:10 PM

As Will52100 said, you can drill out the cylinder pin lock at the rear so you can unscrew the arbor, peen the back shoulder enough to tighten the arbor and backplate and use blue locktite when you reseat it.

Attach the barrel and wedge when you replace it to make sure the wedge slot is aligned with the barrel slot.

I have always tapped the frame/arbor locking hole and replaced the arbor locking pin with a #6 setscrew rather than a new locking pin, making it easier to remove should I or anyone ever need to remove the arbor again in the future.

Sgt. Eli · January 06, 2008, 08:27:33 PM

Will the arbor is as tight as Dick's hatband.
Here is my fix. I lined up the conversion ring in correct alignment. Since I couldn't get the drill press close enough to the arbor to drill the face of the conversion ring, I drilled a 1/16" hole from the bottom of the frame near the loading gate side so I wouldn't get into the hand channel. Drove and locktited a roll pin and it is now solid and fires every time.
Aligned

Misaligned

Drilled

Ready to Shoot

Deadeye Dick · January 06, 2008, 09:24:05 PM

Nice lookin' outfit.

Sgt. Eli · January 12, 2008, 06:26:47 AM

Another minor annoyance I encountered is when I reassembled everything, I couldn't get the gun to cock without rotating the cylinder by hand while cocking. I thought maybe I had the hand in a bind against the conversion ring so I took it all back apart and polished the hand where there looked like rub marks, reassembled....same thing. Then I noticed a slight mark at the front of the cylinder.....backed off the front trigger guard screw a little and she worked just great, so you might want to check the screws the first time you tighten everythng up.

Fox Creek Kid · January 12, 2008, 12:28:06 PM

Sgt. Eli, that would have nothing to do with "binding" unless you somehow mixed up the three TG screws (one is shorter than other two) and put a longer one in the front hole.

Pettifogger · January 12, 2008, 06:38:51 PM

Yep, cylinder binding is usually caused by the wedge being in to far. If you have to leave the trigger guard screws loose to make the gun work, you better look for the problem as that ain't normal.

Sgt. Eli · January 12, 2008, 10:14:48 PM

Was not a wedge issue, and when I snugged the screw all the way down it came all the way thru making contact with the cylinder, like I said it left a drag mark, upon disassembly the 3 trigger guard screws were same length. I'm assuming they got the wrong screw in it during assembly. When I dressed screw to proper height and then snugged it down everything was all right.