Bp in 45LC info please...

[Grapeshot]

  Thanks for the replys all. I have to ask tho... other then granulation.... I personally do not know the difference from 2F to 3F. I know its the burn rate but....  I see such a difference in price between the  two, is the burn rate that much different? I love the power and recoil is a 'likable' thing in my world,and I could clean and reload all day,so fouling is not an issue yet. So all in all 2F 3F , whats the better ....? thanks again all, Bob

Using the same weight or volume, 3Fg will give higher velocities and pressure.  2Fg is my all around powder, except in the .31 pocket pistols.  Then I'll use 3Fg BP or 777.

[Driftwood Johnson]

Thanks for the replys all. I have to ask tho... other then granulation.... I personally do not know the difference from 2F to 3F. I know its the burn rate but....  I see such a difference in price between the  two, is the burn rate that much different? I love the power and recoil is a 'likable' thing in my world,and I could clean and reload all day,so fouling is not an issue yet. So all in all 2F 3F , whats the better ....? thanks again all, Bob

Howdy

All other things being equal, using the same charge of powder under the same bullet you will see anywhere between 60fps-100fps more velocity with FFFg rather than FFg. Depends on the caliber, load, brand of powder, etc. I have never seen a price difference between FFg or FFFg. Everywhere I have ever bought powder, the price for FFg or FFFg has always been the same, with the same brand of powder. I used to use FFFg in 45 Colt and 44-40, FFg in 12 Guage. These days I use FFg in everything, 45 Colt, 45 Schofield, 44-40, 12 Gauge and 45-70. It just makes it easier to use one powder for everything.

[RugerBob]

  well, on the price difference and the different grades at the local walmart here 2F pyrodex is 16 bucks and the trip 7 is 26 bucks. I am new to the BP scene, so I will eventually figure all this out. Kinda like when I started reloading for 45LC and learned from the internet and experience. Looking forward to spring when I can hit my 1st SASS shoot. Not 1st for the year, but 1st ever. never been to one, so should be great. thanks all Bob

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Ruger Bob - have tons of fun at your first shoot.

It gets better!

Trip 7 is (IMHO) outrageously priced.  The last time I bought powder, summer/fall 2006, Goex and Pyrodex were at the $13-$14 range.  Kik was $10.50.  777 was $24-$25.  And that's not even a full pound!  I WISH I understood.

Seems to me I've heard that 777 is 10%-15% more powerful than Goex.  OK, I can see where it'd be more expensive - but DOUBLE the price?  NAAAHHHHH. 

I'm looking to find some Scheutzen powder, as I've heard good things about it, and SWISS, too.

[Wills Point Pete]

 I must be using a different lube recipe from what Driftwood is using, I don't have any trouble with lube stuck to the bases of my bullets. And I just fill that slight hollow base of those Remington swaged lead RNFPs and seat them over one fiber wad, a Walters Wad. Of course it's a pretty soft lube so the centrifugal force of the spinning bullet slings it out pretty fast.
Please note that I ain't trying to pick a fight with Mr. Johnson, I've never caught him saying anything incorrect, it's just a different experience.
I would wager that Dick Dastardly's Pearl Lube would also get slung away from the base of a bullet.

[Dick Dastardly]

Howdy WPP,

Pearl lube II  is both heat and motion activated.  It'll sit around in one chunk most of forever but when agitated it gets real fluid.  That along with heat make it leave the bullet.  When I'm using it in either my Star or Lyman lube sizers it flows easier and easier the more bullets I lube/size.

The stuff has the interesting and somewhat unexpected property of coating everything it gets on with a Teflon™ like coating.  The big difference between the PL-II coating and Teflon™ is that the PL-II coating removes easily come clean up time.  In combination with Big Lube™ bullets fouling just doesn't stand a chance.  The second shot and the last shot will encounter the same amount of fouling.

DD-DLoS

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy Wills Point Pete

Probably the difference is in the details. My lube cookies were about 1/8" thick and were made from about 50/50 Crisco/Beeswax. Pretty soft and gooey. They did not get glued to the base of the bullets every time, but it happened often enough to affect accuracy and ruin my groups. I relalized what was happening when I found lube cookies glued to my targets out at 50 yards. The lube cookies were intact, complete with the card wad that separated them from the powder. And they had glued themselves right to the targets where they had smacked into them. They probably stayed stuck to the bullet bases just long enough to destabilize them, causing the bullets to wobble in flight. At that point the cookies probably separated from the bullets, but the damage was already done, the bullets were wobbling like a bad spiral thrown by a rookie quarterback. Not tumbling, there was no keyholing, just bad groups. My cookies were pretty soft, and mashing my bullets down directly onto them was enough to give them a good hold on the base of the bullets. Like I said, adding an extra card wad between the bullet and the cookie solved that problem, but by that time it had pushed me over the edge of too much work at the loading table and I started casting Big Lube bullets instead. I wasn't interested in experimenting with lube cookies anymore.

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Like Driftwood said, lube cookies are too much work for some.

And they taste TERRIBLE!