Coil Handspring/Plunger Conversion & Piano Wire Bolt Spring

[Long Johns Wolf]

Howdy to the campfire: this might have been asked before but I missed it...is there any supplier of aftermarket coil handspring/plunger conversions and piano wire bolt springs out there for 58 and 75 clones?
Thank you.
Long Johns Wolf

[Flint]

Although the wire bolt/trigger springs will be less likely (if ever) to break, they don't have the "snap" that the flat springs do.  That's my experience, and from reading the posts, many others as well.  A better qulity spring such as the Wolff will last longer than the Italian replacements.  This is true whether a Colt type or Remington.

As for a coil and plunger hand spring, which the Remington needs badly, no-one is making a kit for that, and it would take a bit more work, as the barrel will interfere with holding the frame in a mill vise, unless you have a right angle head on the mill.

A coil and plunger conversion on the Remington would be visible from the outside like the Ruger Bearcat, as there is no separate gripframe to cover up the hole.  The coil and plunger will need a setscrew to retain it, again because of the lack of separate gripframe.

That is a conversion I have been intending to make, though since retiring I no longer have access to a mill.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I also made my own piano wire bolt/trigger spring. It was not very good. I made two more trying different sizes of wire but the results were the same. Like Barbarosa, I also went back to the original flat one. I haven't seen a conversion for the handspring. Maybe Flint will start doing them and we all can send ours to him for that. Sounds like a good idea, to me.

[Hoof Hearted]

The biggest problem encountered with these "piano" wire springs is that they can and will allow the cylinder to over index. Usually when you repeatedly snap the hammer back, fast and hard. I am a firm believer, after seeing a number of "mysterious blowups" that improper indexing (the 5 SAA's I have seen had piano wire bolt/had springs) and the subsequent miss alignment casuing the bullet to impact the side (and maybe the edge of the barrel) of the forcing cone, that they have no place in a SASS type of gun. You are only asking WHEN not if

Proper thinning of the hammer side of this spring will allow some benefit if all other aspect of the timing and a proper trigger job are ahered to.

I did this very thing on a NMA (the one with the broken trigger from my other post) just the other day. In fact the hammer that I fitted to this gun had a much shorter pad for the trigger spring to rest on. I fitted a Dragoon spring and it did not have enough strength to overcome the slight weight of my trigger finger. This allowed the hammer to miss setting on full cock without a conscious effort to move your finger off the trigger. By bending the spring some I was able to increase this force and eliminate that problem.

Trying to improve this design to that point is kind of like trying to race a flathead and install over head cams...it can be done but it's not for the uninformed or the unskilled! And it won't be without problems (and it'll be a money pit). IMO if you want to go that fast buy a Ruger Old Army.

[Long Johns Wolf]

So, the consent here is to stick to the original type leaf springs but replace them with higher quality aftermarket springs. Good cowboy advice, thanks.
Long Johns Wolf