Highlighting Sculpted Ivory Grip Design

[Athena Jake]

Recently ordered and received (Ordered on Monday and received on Saturday!) a pair of Saloon Girl Thunderer grips from Gripmaker.com.

I have read through his instructions, and the post "Staining "ivory" urethane grips" started by W.T., as well as the post "More about "antiquing" white grips ..." started by Steel Horse Bailey.

My question is picking out the detail or making the sculpted design stand out.  I have seen grips where the design appears to be outlined in black, which is an effect I was looking for and forgot to ask about on the phone.

Was not sure if this was as simple as outlining and detailing in black dye then rubbing off the excess with a cloth or if another method was more effective.

I figured I would ask it here and be able to share this knowledge.

Thank you
Athena Jake

[St. George]

Real carved Ivory grips have a dark brownish-yellow patina no doubt brought on by exposure to skin oils, dirt and exposure to the elements.

Artificially 'aging' a recently-made pair should attempt to mirror that effect for an authentic look - so I'd try a mixture of strong tea to stain it, and follow by rubbing the highlights to show the relief.

You can continue this until you achieve the desired result.

Some grip manufacturers provide 'pre-aged' grip panels - but both sides of real Ivory didn't discolor equally - the outboard side got more exposure.

Remember - the real material has a myriad of pores that acted to grab any form of oil or dirt - and modern material doesn't - being smooth, overall.

You 'can' flow some Black into the different recesses - but controlling it may be hard to do if you're looking for something subtle.

If you can do it - 'less is more'...

For a quick look at some period Ivory-clad revolvers, both carved and smooth - you'll see a number of them in Rattenbury's 'Packing Iron'.

They'll serve as a good example.

Good Luck.

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[Athena Jake]

Real carved Ivory grips have a dark brownish-yellow patina no doubt brought on by exposure to skin oils, dirt and exposure to the elements.

Artificially 'aging' a recently-made pair should attempt to mirror that effect for an authentic look - so I'd try a mixture of strong tea to stain it, and follow by rubbing the highlights to show the relief.

I had through along these lines.
Buffalo Brothers show the ideas as "Ivory with Black".
What I am thinking of would be the equivalent of using india ink in scrimshaw work.  I just did not want to dive in with out a modicum of direction. (not that I don't often dive into things!)

Athena Jake

[Forty Rod]

I'd use a dark brown rather than black.  It looks better in all lighting.

Try this before you go nuts on a method: 

First, find out of rubbing alcohol damages your grips in any way.  Try it someplace that won't show if it does leave a mark.

Next get a can of Kiwi or Shinola brown wax shoe polish and rub it all over the grips.

Rub it off with a clean rag.  Keep doing this until you get the look you want.  You may want to stop there, but remember your "antique" may melt and run down your leg on a hot day.

Take a bunch of pictures.  Look at them for a few weeks and see if they look as good to you at the end of that time as they did in the beginning.

Ckean the grips with alcohol and a soft cloth.  Get all the wax polish off.  Degrease them completely, too.

NOW use the antiquing techniques that you will find many places and rub off as much as you want to get the final result that pleases you.  RIT or leather dyes work well.

Note: get a pin vise and a handful of thick sewing needles and scribe cracks in the sides and bottom of the grips.  New white grips don't usually have these, but older used grips almost always do.  The old the grips are supposed to be the more and deeper the cracks will be.  Look at a lot of pictures to see hpw they should look. 

Be patient.  be very, very patient.