Trouble taking apart a Uberti Brass 1860 Henry

Started by PvtGreg, August 22, 2007, 02:59:33 PM

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PvtGreg

Point of clarification - the hardened VTI screws are listed as after market.  I've now got a set of "after marget" lever screws and they are indeed much harder.

Also - Amen about the 1858 Uberti spring screw!

Coffinmaker


A little bit "down the road" but as many of these guns as I take apart and reassemble each season, I disassemble with a 3/8 impact driver and the correct bit. 
An interesting point about not tightening the screws as tight is partially correct.  Make them "snug."  Except the the lever side spring screws.  The actual problem with the lever side springs is they don't fit the arch of the receiver correctly and need to be re-shaped at the back of the spring for proper fit.  As installed from the factory, they "cock" in the frame rather than tightening down flat.  The spring is usually a little too long as well.  Re-shape the back of the spring before you re-install it.
After "Bongo" the gorilla installs 'em, occasionally even with an impact driver I have to "drill out" a screw head.  I believe VTI offers a complete set of after market screws for each of the toggle link rifles that are hardened.  A good idea.

Coffinmaker

PvtGreg

First let me thank all who offered advice on this subject.

I finally had all the extra parts (from VTI) and necessary tools for the job this weekend.  I have to admit that I actually used some bit of all the advice offered by responders to this thread (except for the impact driver). 

I partially removed the lever screw enough to allow me to remove the side plate.  At this point let me add my contribution to this task by recommending a solid block of wood as a great accessory for removal of side plates too firmly in place to remove with your fingers.  I ended up removing the side plate by using the block as a driving wedge placed at the plate seam and a hammer on the other end!  I got lucky and didn't leave a mark on the brass.  Also to reiterate what another mentioned on this thread - the sides of the side plate are sharp!  It roughly takes a 45 year old man ~4 days for the resulting cut to heal.

Next I discovered that one of the level screws was sheared off and therefore one of the lever springs were loose inside.  Of course the other wouldn't come off even with the proper slot screw driver so I soaked it the WD & after a half-hour or so got it off - but by that time the head was too damaged to re-use. 

I dissembled everything and cleaned it all up, oiled, reassembled it all in reverse, fussed for 15 min & then reassembled everything correctly - using my new hardened VTI screws.  I highly recommend the hardened screws from VTI.  I have since used the weapon for about 500 more shots & disassembly was easy with the lever screw heads 100% intact.

This experience has been an interesting and an enlightening one from this perspective:  As I was going through this process, it suddenly dawned on me why the Henry was never accepted officially into Union service; particularly when you consider it along side the Spencer.  The Henry is in every way but one the superior the Spencer - but that one exception is I think the most important.  You can remove the Spencer action by removing the lever screw & the whole action, block and all comes right out in one piece, allowing for the easy cleaning of the weapon and most important easy assembly and disassembly.  From a military perspective this must have been a huge selling point for the Spencer.

I'm sure this has been pointed out before by others - but I was curious what the members of this board thought about the matter?

Thanks - PvtGreg



litl rooster

Never had a Spencer to compare it with................I've only taken mine(Henry) apart for change springs,>3 times< and one time last year to see how dirty it was.  It wasn't and I put it back together.  I guess if I have to remove the action to clean it, it might be too much work for me. 
Mathew 5.9

Red Creek Robert

Loosen the two screws on the bottom, this will reduce tension on the lever and lifter arm, after removing the lever screw use a block of wood a 1x2 will work or a plastic punch.  Tapping ever so gently the top of the side plate,  It will begin to slide down,  the side plates are doved tailed and very sharp. carefull.
Have fun :-)

Red Creek

Tuolumne Lawman

Having both Spencer and Henry, I can say the Spencer IS much easier.  One screw to break it down and clean it.  Takes a mere fraction of the time as a Henry.
TUOLUMNE LAWMAN
CO. F, 12th Illinois Cavalry  SASS # 6127 Life * Spencer Shooting Society #43 * Motherlode Shootist Society #1 * River City Regulators

Capt, Woodrow F. Call

Howdy.

If you have been unlucky with this two spring screws on the bottom, and smash them,... i do that the first time :(, i have to order a couple new ones.
But then i think about making 2 new ones for my selfe............in brass metal...........end guess.............this problem was gone.
I have used my ...selfe made spring screws... now for over 1 year, and i have dissabled my Henry about 10 times this year, and i have not, have any problems at all.
SWS # 1014
Grenland Gunslingers # 0001
Cowboy Mounted Shooters Norway #005
'The Cowboys' Trail Riding Society of Telemark 2009. # 003
Member of The Chuckwagon society, Sweden.

Coffinmaker

For ALL,

VTI does offer hardened screws as replacements.  While the gun is apart, the side springs springs don't fit the frame as they should and need to be reshaped at the rear to fit properly.  The back of the spring is too long and doesn't match the curve of the frame.  Uberti is also famous for leaving machine swarf in the brass rifles as well as casting sand, now mixed with oil (guey stuff).  Remove the stock while you at it and really clean the rifle out.  The Sand plays heck with the moving parts.
Depending on the rifle and how tight the side plates were fit, pick up a dual faced mallet at the local hardware.  One with the two different hardness plastic heads.  Drive the side plates UP very evenly to avoid binding and gouging the dovetail.  Replace the side plates tapping them DOWN very EVENLY.
When re-assembling the rifle, the side springs have to be installed and the screws tightened BEFORE the side plates go back on.  Have the correct size nail or drift punch available to hold the lever and carrier block arm in place.  Re-install the LEFT side first (the one the screw goes thru).
I'm sure you've all noticed how sharp the edges of the side plates are.  Take care and keep band-aides handy!!

Coffinmaker

Capt, Woodrow F. Call

Howdy's

Just like to add, if you have any problems with edjector rod on your Uberti Henry, here is what i have to do with mine.

It is not funny, when you are in the middle of a competition, and you'r Henry make's BIG Trouble for you. :-\
Some say, you have to use Starline or Winchester shell's, my rifle was very fastidious >:(...............but that is history now ;D

I'm not that good at drawing, neigher in writing, but i hope it is good enougth. 8)

So here is my modification on my Henry...................Warning.........dont file too much.

BR Capt Call.
SWS # 1014
Grenland Gunslingers # 0001
Cowboy Mounted Shooters Norway #005
'The Cowboys' Trail Riding Society of Telemark 2009. # 003
Member of The Chuckwagon society, Sweden.

Flint

VTI has both original Uberti (soft) screws and aftermarket replacement harder screws.  I made some on a lathe, converting Metric Stainless Cheesehead screws to fit the pocket.  Check VTIgunparts list for the harder screws which fit the Henry, 66 and 73.
The man who beats his sword into a plowshare shall farm for the man who did not.

SASS 976, NRA Life
Los Vaqueros and Tombstone Ghost Riders, Tucson/Tombstone, AZ.
Alumnus of Hole in the Wall Gang, Piru, CA, Panorama Sportsman's Club, Sylmar, CA, Ojai Desperados, Ojai, CA, SWPL, Los Angeles, CA

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