nipple wrenches

[grymster2007]

Can a good one be had? I'm not sure if this is exactly the case, but sounds like the Remmy's have some issues that make getting the nipples out more difficult than it ought to be and it sounds like cheap nipple wrenches contribute to the problem. I'm going out tomorrow to shoot my 1858 for the first time. I was hoping to have a nipple wrench before I go, but couldn't find one locally.

Mind you.... I had several people offer to wrench my nipples , but no one would sell me a nipple wrench!

Anyway, can a high quality nipple wrench be had? If not, I'm a gonna make me one! So there!

Thanks,

grym

[Sir Charles deMouton-Black]

Go to your local buckskinners shop.  You could check out Track of the Wolf, or Dixie Gun Works.  (Jes "googlit"!)

Careful, as the ones meant for long caplocks are larger in diameter at the mouth than the ones for revolvers.  I have one of each size that come with a touch hole pick cleverly hidden in the body (just screw off a knurled thing at the top.)  I can't recall the maker.

I had one of the real cheepies for pocket Colts, but it was trash.  The lips had rounded shoulders.  My 'smith filed them square, but the metal is still too soft.

[Stophel]

I just got one from Cabelas that is made by Pedersoli, and comes with a set of six nipples.  It works real well, and fits down in the recesses real good, and also fits the nipples snugly.  I don't care for the screwdriver end, which stabs me in the hand...

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Howdy!

I can't say about the Cabelas, 'cause I think they only sell the one, but at places like Track of the Wolf, watch what you're reading.  They sell a cheap one - mostly for looks, and then a more expensive one, that has been extra hardened for long use.  Usually the types like Sir Charles mentioned ARE the hardened type - BUT, they are bigger and won't necessarily fit in a Remington's nipple recess on the cylinder.

I'm not sure, but I THINK  that the ones by Ted Cash are the hardened, slim type.

[grymster2007]

Well, I went ahead and ordered one from Traditions. Says it will fit an 1858 Remmy. Hope it works OK.

grym

[Fox Creek Kid]

The Traditions wrench is crap IMO. I've owned three and they are super soft & wear quickly. I just bought an Uberti one from VTI that appears to be better but time will tell. Most seem to be too soft.

[grymster2007]

The Traditions wrench is crap IMO

Now you tell me!

But seein' how I paid an extra $12 to get it here in a hurry, I would'a found out soon enough anyway!

grym

[Montana Slim]

Was easy to come by back C. 1976 at the Ankeny, IA "Drugtown" store (similar to Walgreens)...Ha!...was Cheeep, too..got my inline $1.99 capper there, too. Don't know where I'd go for this gear today...catalog I guess... as most local retailers just carry in-lines and supplies for them. To get a good quality wrench that fits proper I'd even consider making my own.

Slim

[sundance44`s]

I use a spanner closed end nipple wrench on my Remmies looks like the one for the Ruger ....BUT ..I had to open the nipple area walls with my dremmel and a 1/2 sanding drum ..Which I was going to do anyway so I could use the snail type capper .

[grymster2007]

The Traditions wrench is crap

Yup.

I'm gonna make one. I don't know what the originals looked like, but I think the T-handle style is probably a good idea and I'm going for function over form anyway.

[Fox Creek Kid]

The design is sound, it's the soft metal. Might try Kasenit. 

[grymster2007]

i might have a chunk of 440C I could use. Not exactly period, but hardened and drawn properly, it would pobably last the rest of my days.

[grymster2007]

Finished my 440C stainless nipple wrench. Hardened and drawn to 52 Rockwell C. Didn't have appropriate stock for the handle, so I'm currently using the black one from the Traditions POC.  I even managed to incorporate the nipple pick from the traditions. Works great and someday I'll push the handle out and press a stainless one in.

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Nice work!!!

Wanna do another?  I have a older Traditions (or same design - CVA perhaps - 30 years old) that has been well heat-treated and has worked fine, but the wire for the nipple prick fell out and got lost, so I had to get a wire-drill and solder it in place.  It MOSTLY works OK (as a Nip prick) , but isn't as good (solid) as before when it was pressed in.  My silver-solder and Bernzomatic torch job isn't as secure as the original, but I was able to replace it with the wire size bit (don't remember the #, but it was smaller than .0028" and now fits 'thru the newer, smaller flash-holes of my Uncle Mikes and Treso cones.

[grymster2007]

Nice work!!!

Thank you!.... I could have done better if I'd had the equipment and done it in my garage, at my leisure, but I'm still pretty happy with it. I'm hoping my guess of 52 Rockwell should be tough enough, without being too brittle.

Wanna do another?

I'd love to.... but only have a nubbin of steel left.

I have a older Traditions (or same design - CVA perhaps - 30 years old) that has been well heat-treated and has worked fine, but the wire for the nipple prick fell out and got lost, so I had to get a wire-drill and solder it in place.  It MOSTLY works OK (as a Nip prick) , but isn't as good (solid) as before when it was pressed in.

Is the wire pressed into a cap that threads into the end opposite the business end of the wrench (like mine)? If so, I'm assuming the cap is steel (mine's aluminum). If the solder job isn't that good, there are two-part epoxies that might do the trick.

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Thank you! ...

Is the wire pressed into a cap that threads into the end opposite the business end of the wrench (like mine)? If so, I'm assuming the cap is steel (mine's aluminum). If the solder job isn't that good, there are two-part epoxies that might do the trick.

It sounds like the only difference is that my threaded cap is brass, and yes - the prick was pressed in.  The pricker's original diameter was larger than my replacement.  My silver solder job will probably be re-torched and re-done with epoxy, 'cause the solder took FINE to the brass, but NOT to the drill bit - no matter how much I de-greased and fluxed it.

[grymster2007]

I have some Devcon High Strength, 5-minute, two-part epoxy (got it at Lowes or Home Depot) that works well bonding metal. You might rough up the drill a bit to give the epoxy some purchase, then clean with alcohol. Moisture often causes epoxy failure, so I do this kind of thing in a warm, dry area and usually employ a hair dryer to remove any condensation left over from the evaporating alcohol.

Good luck!

grym

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Thanx for the tips.

[Montana Slim]

A few more tips for the DIY inclined:

Nipple wrenches are small enough to do on the poor-man's lathe (if ya have one ).
Drill the nipple relief first.
Use a good hacksaw to start the cuts for the slot (and a steady hand), finish with a file.
Dremel tool or die grinder may be handy to
Metal cuts best if it isn't butter-soft.
Grade "5" bolts are a good place to start for raw stock.

Slim

Note: a poor-man's lather of course is a sturdy variable speed drill and a vise or clamps to steady it. Cutters include your favorite selection of files and emory paper. Works slowly to prevent damage to your drill.

[Steel Horse Bailey]

More good tips - thanks!