Change out barrels on Cimmaron '51 R-M Navies?

[Anontex2]

I originally bought the pair in .38 Spcl and 5.5 inch barrels...will the longer barrels in same caliber simply replace the shorter ones?  New wedges needed?

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Probably.

How's that for a short answer.  Which is NOT a guarantee.  I'd call Cimmaron to see if they are still getting their guns from the same place - Uberti or Pietta.  That'll give you an opportunity to ask their opinion about your proposed idea.  Which I   think is a fine one, by the way ... as if MY opinion were important.   

If the parts match, you might consider buying the part(s) [you MAY be able to use the same wedge, but a new one could be handy to have] from http://www.vtigunparts.com/.  They might be able to save ya some ca$h.  However, the barrel markings might be different, so ...

[Goody]

I originally bought the pair in .38 Spcl and 5.5 inch barrels...will the longer barrels in same caliber simply replace the shorter ones?  New wedges needed?

Yes, they will work. As Steel Horse suggested order from VTI, get a couple wedges while you are there. I've got 6 Open Tops and have swapped barrels around a little. It's a 50-50 shot at the wedge working.

Another, less expensive way, that may or may not bear fruit, is to offer to swap someone. As stated I have 6 OT's, they were all 5 1/2 barrels. Someone posted on the SASS classifieds that they had some 7 inch ones and wanted to swap for 5 1/2. We both just paid our own shipping costs and exchanged barrels.

[Flint]

Since most of the parts are the same, I'll mention that I have 2 Uberti/Cimarron Opentops, one is 44 Colt and the other 44 Special, both came as 5-1/2 inch guns..  I bought, from both VTI and Cimarron (depending on who had it in stock), barrels and cylinders in both 38 Special and 45 Schofield, my 38s are 5-1/2 inch and 45s are 7-1/2 inch, and spare 44 barrels in the longer length.  I also bought several spare wedges and screws, and keep them with their barrels, as well as ejector rod assemblies, (tubes, rods, screws and springs)

This adds up to a lot of money, and time-sharing parts like the ejectors would be a lot cheaper, but it sure makes for versatile gun platforms.

Fitting up the barrels that fit the best out of the box in each frame is a good start, and after it is set up I stamp the last digits of the serial number on the barrel lug (facing the cylinder, where it won't show when assembled) to identify its proper frame.

Make sure you set the Headspace FIRST.  Not setting the headspace properly can result in light primer strikes and misfires. Then the gas ring can be adjusted in length for proper endshake between the frame and barrel with the wedge set in its proper position.  The screw head should just contact the inside face of the clearance cut in the wedge.  Drive the wedge in until the screw can be turned past the flat to retain it, then tap it back against the screwhead. Set the endshake for that position, the barrel/cylinder gap will be last, if necessary.  Once a cylinder is fitted, mark it as well for the frame it fits.